Do i need a new clutch?
- Thread starter winkle
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Those cracks in the flywheel face would worry me.
Colorado Boy-74-FJ40
I may grow older but I refuse to grow up!
well you already have it out. That's half the battle. you might as well replace it and look into getting that flywheel resurfaced or replaced.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
Your flywheel at least needs to be resurfaced. Mine looked almost as bad but didn't stutter much. It is amazing how nice and pretty they are after they are machined. I haven't reinstalled mine yet though.
x2 on turning flywheel.. not sure u need a new disc or not from that pic.. mine was down to the rivets when i recently redid mine.. yours still has some meat..
i had shuttering issues for s few months before i went in there.. my flywheel had hotspots.. got it turned and the issue is gone.
i had shuttering issues for s few months before i went in there.. my flywheel had hotspots.. got it turned and the issue is gone.
X - 10 on the flywheel.
Was the clutch pedal and slave properly adjusted?
IMHO, you will only generate enough heat to heat crack the flywheel like that with major clutch slippage.
Was the clutch pedal and slave properly adjusted?
IMHO, you will only generate enough heat to heat crack the flywheel like that with major clutch slippage.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
"shudder" can be cause by 5 issues:
1) hot spots or warped flywheel. get the flywheel turned and you're good.
2) worn clutch disc. difficult to measure, cheap to replace.
3) worn or warped pressure plate "fingers". also cheap to replace.
4) bad throw-out bearing or bearing collar. if the throwout bearing is loose on the collar then replace them both.
5) worn or cracked transmission front bearing retainer. this is the part that the throw-out bearing rides on. if there's excessive wear or it's cracked, then the retainer needs to be replaced.
since you already have the trans out, do yourself a favor and get hne flywheel resurfaced and replace the entire clutch assy. even though the disc looks like it's got some life left in it, you're better off replacing them all at this point. so get a new disc, pressure plate, throw-out and pilot bearing.
if you're not sure how to do the job properly, go to the dealer and buy the FSM for your rig. it'll pay for itself the first time you open it.
hth
georg @ valley hybrids
1) hot spots or warped flywheel. get the flywheel turned and you're good.
2) worn clutch disc. difficult to measure, cheap to replace.
3) worn or warped pressure plate "fingers". also cheap to replace.
4) bad throw-out bearing or bearing collar. if the throwout bearing is loose on the collar then replace them both.
5) worn or cracked transmission front bearing retainer. this is the part that the throw-out bearing rides on. if there's excessive wear or it's cracked, then the retainer needs to be replaced.
since you already have the trans out, do yourself a favor and get hne flywheel resurfaced and replace the entire clutch assy. even though the disc looks like it's got some life left in it, you're better off replacing them all at this point. so get a new disc, pressure plate, throw-out and pilot bearing.
if you're not sure how to do the job properly, go to the dealer and buy the FSM for your rig. it'll pay for itself the first time you open it.
hth
georg @ valley hybrids
clutch.
Whether it is leaking or not, replace the rear main oil seal
Whether it is leaking or not, replace the rear main oil seal
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
good point and reason #6 for chatter:
oil contamination. usually goes along with a nasty burning oil smell and definetly not the cause for the shudder issues with the clutch pictured above.
oil contamination. usually goes along with a nasty burning oil smell and definetly not the cause for the shudder issues with the clutch pictured above.
Georg,
Don't forget about #7 the PO re-surfaced the flywheel with an angle grinder.
I just went through this whole process 2 weeks ago. Do yourself a favor and do it right the first time, you do not want to do it twice. All the above posts nailed it for you.
Good luck
Don't forget about #7 the PO re-surfaced the flywheel with an angle grinder.
I just went through this whole process 2 weeks ago. Do yourself a favor and do it right the first time, you do not want to do it twice. All the above posts nailed it for you.
Good luck
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
you're right tony. so we might as well keep going:
#8 loose flywheel or pressure plate bolts.
#9 mis-adjusted or loose pressure plate finger adjusters. this applies only to the three finger clutches likt the one pictured at the top of this thread. refer to the fsm for proper adjustment.
#10 broken engine mount(s) always check these first.
#11 loose clutch fork pivot or pivot bolt
#12 worn clutch fork or fork pivot
#13 do i need to keep going?!
#8 loose flywheel or pressure plate bolts.
#9 mis-adjusted or loose pressure plate finger adjusters. this applies only to the three finger clutches likt the one pictured at the top of this thread. refer to the fsm for proper adjustment.
#10 broken engine mount(s) always check these first.
#11 loose clutch fork pivot or pivot bolt
#12 worn clutch fork or fork pivot
#13 do i need to keep going?!
you're right tony. so we might as well keep going:
#8 loose flywheel or pressure plate bolts.
#9 mis-adjusted or loose pressure plate finger adjusters. this applies only to the three finger clutches likt the one pictured at the top of this thread. refer to the fsm for proper adjustment.
#10 broken engine mount(s) always check these first.
#11 loose clutch fork pivot or pivot bolt
#12 worn clutch fork or fork pivot
#13 do i need to keep going?!
So, basically, you need a new engine - this one is junked.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
or you could just do the old "radiator cap rebuild".
Yep that sounds good.
Might as well replace the rear main oil seal the pilot and throwout bearings.
