Builds Do I have your attention.... I call it VERA.

[Tank5]

If you still have the ends of the frame you cut off you could cut them open and remove the capture nut plates that are inside. The nuts are welded to a plate that is easy to remove. I did this on my front bumper. If you use capture nut plate, you could technically bolt on any after market recovery point made for the front of the 80 series.

 

[2fpower]

Why not run it thru, that way you dont worry bout the weld in nut rusting solid to bolt

If this was a steering gearbox or something, I could see that, however, I reused the captured nut from the section I cut off, (like @Tank5 suggested) so it will have as much risk of rusting as the other 4 bolts on each side. Plus they have lots of meat if you need to tap them larger.

Took about 5 minutes to slide it in place and weld it in the rectangle hole.

 

[Mike Shull]

Point, but I am going to reuse the captured nut from the section I cut off, so it will have as much risk of rusting as the other 4 bolts on each side. Plus they have lots of meat if you need to tap them larger.

If you are going to have one bolt rust, you will want them all the be equally as rusty to achieve the same clamping and frustration factor.

I wouldn’t run a bolt through without a sleeve to prevent the frame from collapsing.

 

[peesalot]

I have never had good exp with capture nuts. I guess it depends on the environment the truck operates in.

 

[2fpower]

Lots of slow welding with copper backers this weekend to get rid of all the holes on the dash and then cut in the hole for the AC controls. Also drilled two holes for dimmer and hazards.

 

[Tank5]

I bet it is nice to be able to do all that work on the with it out of truck on a bench. Looking good!

 

[2fpower]

I bet it is nice to be able to do all that work on the with it out of truck on a bench. Looking good!

Absolutely... I almost installed it when I first started working on it around New years, and then thought better....

Plan to create some added structure to be able to connect it to the firewall in the center, then prime the back, then weld it back on.

 

[2fpower]

Working on wiring again. Trying to get the old air a/c - heater wired up. The Old Air system just has one wire going to the trinary switch, that then goes to the compressor. The Tacoma harness has three wires going to the compressor all from the integrated control (center of dash with all the controls for air system). Thus, I need to figure out how to wire the other two wires, and what wire is what. I assume we have power, ground and then a switched circuit (green black) that from old air wiring diagram is a positive firing setup. It says above the wires on the diagram "lock" and "ssr-" is that give me a clue of what wire is what?

finally, coming out of the same integration control is this idle up line. looks like is is positive 12v based on the diagram. Agree?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I believe u are correct and the hurricane signal to the clutch I believe goes to the idle up. Not sure what the other stuff is in the main harness unless some eco mode turns off the ac or full throttle turns off ac.

 

[2fpower]

just talked to @kc_chevota and he said that the 2 other wires to the compressor are not needed. Evidently the compressor has a second pressure switch in it that are not needed.

 

[Vossie]

just talked to @kc_chevota and he said that the 2 other wires to the compressor are not needed. Evidently the compressor has a second pressure switch in it that are not needed.

a bit late but you got it. you only need to trigger the magnetic clutch to make the system work. just make sure you have a pressure switch in your lines, normally by your drier bottle. you can have that in line with your on/off switch and thermostat/ heater control to make it easier.

 

[2fpower]

Been meaning to share this diagram on how to use 2 relays to make the negative headlight Toyota harness to work for positive headlights (LED).

To recap, the harness existing has 1 positive going to each side, seperately fused after it goes through relay. It has a negative going to each side for high and a negative going to each side for low.

Really simple. get all 6 of these wires located coming out of the firewall harness. You only need one of each of the negative wires for high and low.

Put one of each positive wires to terminal 30, that will make power go to the headlight when triggered. Also put power on pin 85 of one side to power the coil and a jumper to the other relay. Thus the opposite side of that, terminal 87 will be the wire going out to power low or high for both bulbs. Thus you have switched from one fuse powering one side to one fuse powering both low or both high.

The original input negative needs to go on line 86 on one of the relays and in my diagram, pin 85 on the other. Thus when either wires have ground input, the circuit is completed and pin 30 is connected to 87.

To be clear, in this setup, because Toyota harness has both high and low as negative (ground) when the brights are on, both the high and low beams are powered, which is how my LED bulbs work.

 

[jayp2]

"Jayne, no grenades"....

 

[2fpower]

I saw these on ebay....

so thinking about having one made for Vera.

But what to do here??? my initial thoughts....

Model: FJ45 - VERA

I have the vin, which matches the frame vin,

Color M7W/9Q - this is porsche meteor grey metallic code.

Trans/axle A442F K294 (that is 100 series tranny and 80 series locked axles

Plant: A11 (see below from fj45)

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER FJ55 FJ45 FJ40 Aluminum ID Plate Data Engraved | eBay

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER FJ55 FJ45 HJ47 FJ40 VIN Manufactured Plate Engraved 1 Pcs.

www.ebay.com

 

[2fpower]

Got some recovery points for the bumper that I had totally forgot about…. And welded the plate for the winch.

 

[2fpower]

Also, was trying to figure out a way to reinforce and stiffen up the dash, came up with this method ….worked great. 3/8 rod.

 

[2fpower]

Got a set of seats out of an M3. Little more fancy than the 330 I seats I had planned to use. Hoping the seats mount the same.

 

[2fpower]

Decided to put the final axles in before running brake lines, and getting this thing to start driving around ….so first step was to tear out these temporary axles. Then went down to the barn and found the old slee 6 inch lift front drop arms. I love the new arms that are available but this just looks a little more old-school to me.

 

[2fpower]

Got the nice painted axles ready to go in…. But while it’s out, realized it’s a lot easier to get to the power steering line and transmission cooler lines in place…. Took the power steering line to a local hydraulic shop to get them to make it the right length.

 

[2fpower]

Here is the completed power steering line…. Compression fittings on both ends, that are the original Toyota lines…. Just had a couple hours in the shop tonight, but I got that power steering line in and the transmission lines in to cooler…. Baby steps.