dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

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Hey Dallas I've recreated you problem on my truck. You know that 15 amp blown fuse you have, change it . While trying to jumper wires to see what's doing what I blew that fuse and It's doing exactly what you're describing Starts rus for a second or two while the EDIC motor cycles to OFF. I bet your not getting glow plugs either. Try that out.

Fingers crossed

BTW here are the pictures of the Alt wiring,

I'm off to buy a fuse I don't have any spares left in my kit
Alt wiring.webp
Alt wiring 2.webp
 
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NICE pictures - THANKS!! I did replace that fuse. I can glow the system, everything appears to be OK.

Now, I even ran a GROUND wire from the Negative on the battery over to the edic body to ensure it has a good ground. I hooked everything up....

And then.........

I glowed the system for about 30 seconds. . . .I watched the EDIC motor arm as I turned the key to start (EDIC arm shot over to O.I.)....the 3B fires to life.....I release the key to "ON" and the EDIC motor arm shoots forward to "STOP" and the 3B dies.
 
More test results. I am sorry for so much data......

Disconnected the EDIC Motor arm. Glowed the system. 3B fired in straight away. Idles like a champ.

I ran around with the volt meter collecting this data WITH THE 3B idling.

1. Oil sensor had 13.2V on it.

2. Batteries were showing 26.4V.

3. EDIC Red wire - 0V

4. EDIC Blue wire - 26V.

5. EDIC Green wire - 26V.

6. EDIC Yellow wire - 26V.
 
Dallas, I'm super impressed by a couple things:
-1, you're in the U.S. and you're not afraid to try and undo a gas conversion gone bad. No fear of the diesel! Including the EDIC etc.
-2, you're showing no fear of the 24V system. Even though you claim little experience with wiring, you've done a stellar job recreating the wiring on this little bugger!

You definitely have some goods and are making huge progress!

My thought: as some have mentioned earlier, starting after an oil change sometimes doesn't build pressure up fast enough to keep the EDIC from shutting the motor off. Maybe since yours has been in storage long enough that it's having a similar problem? Maybe try getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge and running the engine long enough so that residual oil pressure remains, then connect the EDIC right away and try to restart?
 
maybe that's what prompted the 305 conversion in the first place ;p
 
Awww that's too bad I guess it was too good to be true.

I'll do some more thinking and testing.
 
You're getting there man, but watching all this suffering with the EDIC does remind me why I went with a cable stop....

I have two different fuel control relays if you want a pic or any info on them, just ask!

(if I'd seen you having this issue a day ago I'd have thrown the one from a 42 inside the airbox for you)

Cheers,
Ryan
 
I agree with subzali. That could have been what prompted the 305 swap in the first place. I still think it is the relay. I just hope that we can find a new relay and that it doesn't cost n arm n a leg!
 
dmaddox said:
More test results. I am sorry for so much data......

Disconnected the EDIC Motor arm. Glowed the system. 3B fired in straight away. Idles like a champ.

I ran around with the volt meter collecting this data WITH THE 3B idling.

1. Oil sensor had 13.2V on it.

2. Batteries were showing 26.4V.

3. EDIC Red wire - 0V

4. EDIC Blue wire - 26V.

5. EDIC Green wire - 26V.

6. EDIC Yellow wire - 26V.
Click to expand...

The data is good and matches what I have when my engine is running.

Here is what the contacts inside the motor look like. It wound't take much for one not to make contact and not do it's job. If the Green one is broken or corroded. You know the red, yellow and black are good.
Just another road to try but I don't think you need to venture on it.
My brain hurts
EDIC MOTOR INSIDE.webp
EDIC MOTOR INSIDE 2.webp
EDIC MOTOR INSIDE 3.webp
 
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Dallas if I remember correctly the green wire out of the motor tested fine but the green wire (g,b) out of the relay we couldn't get continuity. Sorry I'm trying to remember all this as I am driving 80 down the freeway! N no I'm not texting n driving:)
 
I know I'm jumping back and forth from one end to the other but hey these are the joys of ADD. I'm back on the faulty relay band wagon. Here's what I did to make me change my mind.

I pulled the green (Drive) wire out of the plug next to the relay, started the truck and every thing ran normal, and shut off normal.

Plugged green back in and pulled the Yellow black (Oil pressure switch), turned the key to ON and EDIC motor moves back to center or drive position and I have 24 volts on the green wire. I start the truck and still have 24 volts on green.

It sparked another question. When you have the engine running before and you were seeing 26 V on green from the EDIC Relay where did the EDIC go did it return to center ? If so you have a guarantee that you EDIC motor is good and all the connections inside are good.

the last test I did was unplug RED and Start. Engine will run but you can' t shut it off with the key. You have to push the shut off by hand.

My conclusion from this is that if the problem lies in the relay you should be able to reproduce a start and keep running with red unplugged. If the engine runs in this condition, check to see if there is still 0 volts on the red leads, plug it back into the plug and see if the engine keeps running, If so Shut off, re start and you should be back to the problem condition showing the relay not closing in the correct sequence not allowing the engine to run.
If my understanding of the relay is right this should work if not well it's back to school for me.
 
dmaddox said:
I'm just trying to stay positive. I'm digging into the EDIC motor here in a bit to see what I can find out internally.
Click to expand...

That's really all u can do.......u will get it figured out. With the help of the guys here and your knowledge it will get solved.
 
On the subject of your EDIC problem Dallas...

Earlier on I said this:

lostmarbles said:
.....Did you replace the fuse you blew when testing your alternator Dallas? (Sorry ... I don't have wiring diagram in front of me so I don't know whether this is relevant or not anyway.)
Click to expand...

Well looking at the diagram right now, a blown/faulty 15A engine fuse looks to me like it would indeed cause exactly your problem.

(And just so we don't lose sight of it .... I see your problem as being simply that ...with your oil switch disconnected ... your EDIC motor won't put your IP-lever in the mid/run position when your key is in the "on" position.....And it SHOULD put your lever there regardless of whether your engine is running or not (provided your oil switch is disconnected).

dmaddox said:
.....
#1: Oil sensor (tested as a good sensor) OFF/DISCONNECTED.... and the key springs back to "ON" the EDIC shoves the rod to "STOP"......
Click to expand...

I'd call it an oil switch ......but anyway ... here you're confirming once again the fault that I've typed in bold above.


Bandit_guy said:
Hey Dallas I've recreated you problem on my truck. You know that 15 amp blown fuse you have, change it . While trying to jumper wires to see what's doing what I blew that fuse and It's doing exactly what you're describing Starts rus for a second or two while the EDIC motor cycles to OFF. I bet your not getting glow plugs either. Try that out. .......
Click to expand...

Here Bandit_guy is confirming what the wiring diagram suggests to me. That is, if no power is reaching your EDIC relay's IG terminal from your engine fuse, then your EDIC system will never know that you've turned your key to "on" (so it won't put your IP lever in the "run/mid" position.

However by associating the engine fuse with "glowing", he may have misled you. Yes - a blown fuse will stop the "glow momentary switch" (on the dash) from working but it won't stop your "turn key backwards glow operation". So you can still glow your plugs with your key when your engine fuse is blown.

dmaddox said:
NICE pictures - THANKS!! I did replace that fuse. I can glow the system, everything appears to be OK. ...
Click to expand...

But did you use the key or the dash switch to glow your plugs Dallas. (In other words, are you SURE the IG terminal of your EDIC relay is getting 24V via your engine fuse.)

I suggest you recheck your engine fuse and check you are getting 24V to the IG terminal of your EDIC relay when your key is in the "on" position.

dmaddox said:
.... I'm digging into the EDIC motor here in a bit to see what I can find out internally.
Click to expand...

But why? That's "going round in circles" Dallas. The non-invasive tests you did (following that post #55 in Theo's thread) confirmed it was A OK.

:cheers:
 
I didn't trust the EDIC on my truck before seeing the picture of the contacts inside of it, now I trust it much much less...

I guess the good thing about it if it does for some reason fail and do the funky chicken you can just rip the arm off and shut the engine down manually by opening the hood...

I do like the idea of a cable, but haven't seen a setup that sells me on digging into a conversion... That being said my EDIC does still function perfectly after redoing some sketchy trailer wiring under the rear carpet....

In my mind it should have come with a cable from the factory... Especially in a 40!
 
dmaddox said:
...
Disconnected the EDIC Motor arm :eek: . Glowed the system. 3B fired in straight away. Idles like a champ....
Click to expand...

I hope you COMPLETELY REMOVED the arm to start the engine Dallas.

Because if you just disconnected it from the IP lever and left it dangling ... there would have been potential for DISASTER.

(At least one other MUD member has burnt out their EDIC motor by having it "stall" as the dangling arm hit something and jammed .. as the motor was trying to reach a "set position".)

And can you confirm that the GREEN wire is attached to the earth prong on your cruiser Bandit_guy. It is certainly looks like that's the case in your photo here:

GreenEarth.webp
(And if it is .... I win the big prize Rudi!! Ha ha.....:lol:)
GreenEarth.webp
 
bj40green said:
Hi Bandit,
Thanks for this info, this helps us to figure this out. Can you tell us the lay-out of the prongs related to the colors?
So which color is on top, which on bottom left and which on bottom right? Just to cross the t's and dot the i's.

Thanks for your help,

Rudi
Click to expand...

@ Tom, I'm still waiting for this answer from Bandit.
@ Dallas, Did you change back the wiring on the alt to the previous situation (before the fuse blew)?
When you had the engine running did it charge? I saw in your post from yesterday that the Batteries showed 26.4V, which means that the "engine" fuse is OK. This fuse feeds the VR.

EDIT: I just compared the pic of Dallas in posting #410 with the pic of Bandit in posting 462. The wiring colors and positions are the same on both. Now we need the confirmation which prong is E/ground from Bandit.
Maybe Bandit can make a picture of the connector where we can see both sides of the wiring.

Rudi
 
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