DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (4 Viewers)

[Ayune]

You pretty much nailed it. If steel and brass will have the same performance then why pay more? Now if brass corroded and steel didn’t then I would pay the extra for peace of mind. Keep in mind that bottom hose is meant for a 5/8 if I remember right and the steel one is 1/2. When I put the hose on the 1/2 brass part it was way too loose for comfort. The 3/4 that I ended up with was much more confidence inspiring. I was using factory hoses though, so if you are using the gates hoses that may fit 1/2 better than the Toyota hoses then more power to you. I wish I could give you a long term report on the brass but obviously I just put it on a few weeks ago. Maybe someone else can chime in that went brass a few years ago.

The Four Seasons fitting has two 5/8 in. connectors and one 1/2 in. connector.

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

My mechanic explained it to me when I asked why not use brass like this:

Toyota specked the tees in plastic for a reason, they fit tight and flow correctly and they last at least 10years - I wouldn’t risk using anything else.

 

[SF1911A1]

The Four Seasons fitting has two 5/8 in. connectors and one 1/2 in. connector.

Right, so that 1/2" on the bottom seems to me like it wouldn't have an ideal fit unless its a different 1/2" from the pex. Even though parts say 1/2", they can vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer. If I remember correctly, the factory tee is 3/4,3/4,5/8. The drop from 5/8 to the 1/2 on the pex connection was unacceptable to me which is why I went with 3/4 all the way around.

Also, I understand the idea of staying factory because Toyota designed it that way. I can't argue with the logic, it makes perfect sense. I just like to go heavy duty whenever I can just so I don't have to worry about it in the future. Different strokes for different folks I suppose.

 

[Alibaster]

I think I’m gonna go with cedar. Should provide a lovely aroma and prevent moths.

 

[97 AZ LC]

The factory T would be metric. Someone should shop Europe or Asia and find the right size metal T, so "you don't have to worry about it in the future".

 

[SF1911A1]

The factory T would be metric. Someone should shop Europe or Asia and find the right size metal T, so "you don't have to worry about it in the future".

The "not worrying about it" has to do with the composition of the tee, not the specific metric vs standard sizing. I could put 5" hoses and connections on it and it would be perfectly fine as long as all the connections were secure.

 

[uzj100]

The t got me today.

Removing skid plates and the engine moved down and t was leaking. Figured I could push it back on and it crumbled.

2004 with 181k.

Replace the t’s.

Some debri fell motor side. Used the vacuum method but did not see much. Going to do an entire flush.

Replace the t’s.

 

[Scrambled]

I had been procrastinating changing out my heater-Ts, opened up the engine bay yesterday to this:

Luckily I had all the parts on hand. The leaky T-snapped cleanly under hand tension right as I was unclipping the ground wire:

Replace your Heater Ts!

 

[jumptrader]

Replaced them today. n00b here and it took about 30 minutes for the first one (driver side) and 10 minutes for the 2nd one (passenger side). Driver side T chipped on the way out.

Notes for others planning to do this:

• Rotate clamps so that tabs are towards you before sliding them fully out of the way.
• I used this tool to help squeeze and rotate the clamps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D3N7YW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• The driver side T seems to be more fragile than the other side. Pull out carefully, making sure the clamp is FULLY out of the way.
  • I made the mistake of forcing it out when the clamp was only 90% out of the way. Some small pieces on the T broke off.

 

[toyotanorthny]

I was not aware of the tees failing and they burst at highway speed 1 mile before my exit. Lots of coolant flowing. I managed to exit highway and my house is only 3 miles away. I parked car and open hood to see the obvious problem. Tees failed me at 187k. I already ordered Toyota hoses and constant tension hose clamps from the following vendor. Good pricing compare to the Breeze clamps.
Midland | 842010 | CONSTANT TORQUE CLAMP 9/16 - 1 1/16 | Clamps | 2017 Clamps | Constant Torque Hose Clamps
will do repair myself after temps go up a bit. New York City currently at 7 degrees (feel temp at 18 degrees below zero)

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

I change my t’s every time my water pump has been replaced. I try to address them preemptively and it has worked.

 

[ranma21]

I change my t’s every time my water pump has been replaced. I try to address them preemptively and it has worked.

Good practice, it is no brainer for $20 dollars parts. I carry this parts too

For Sale - 100 Series LX470 Heater T Set

 

[toyotanorthny]

I would like to know the possibility of using pinch style clamps for this application. Can anyone chime in and maybe discuss the pros and cons of using that style of clamps. I've used them for fuel hose. Can these possibly be better that worm drive style or constant tension?

 

[hankinid]

I would like to know the possibility of using pinch style clamps for this application. Can anyone chime in and maybe discuss the pros and cons of using that style of clamps. I've used them for fuel hose. Can these possibly be better that worm drive style or constant tension?

Pinch clamps will work, if you use the correct size with the correct installation tool. But looks to me like you'll need to cut them off if you've got need in the future to replace them or the hoses again...i.e., they're not nearly as serviceable as a constant tension clamp, or even a good old worm drive.

I simply re-use the Corbin-type oem clamps. Force is constant, they don't lose their tension over time, and the price is right. Spring-loaded constant tension clamps are pretty, but to me not at all cost effective.

hth

Steve

 

[Balto1223]

Here's an install with brass T's and Breeze constant tension hose clamps. Replaced the hot hoses too. Shouldn't be going anywhere anytime soon! Those clamps are bulky, but made well.

Also a picture of the old T's off a 2006 lx with 125k miles.

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

Looks like the space shuttle!

 

[MuseChaser]

We're about to take a long trip in a week or so, and I want to do the tees and six hoses before we head out. 2005 lx470 w/ 138K on it, never been done previously, and have owned the truck less than a year. I'm terrible at reading parts diagrams and ordering the correct parts; have messed up more than once in the past year. I've found a few small discrepancies in the part numbers for the hoses in various posts here on Mud and elsewhere on the internet, so in an attempt to make SURE I get the right parts to do this job before our trip, I pulled the parts diagram on the Lexus site here..

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - WATER PIPING. 2005 Lexus | Lexus Parts & Accessories Online

2005 Lexus HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - WATER PIPING

parts.lexus.com

I have compiled a spreadsheet of the diagram numbers, part numbers, date ranges, etc., and will attach a screenshot of it to this post. My LX is a 2005 with a manufacture date of 08/2004. Is that the date I should use to determine which hose to order when the part numbers differ? Also, note on the diagram/parts list on the lexus page that there are two hoses listed but not shown in the diagram, both with the part number 87245-6A090. What are those? They are the second and third items in the list on the Lexus page.

IF I read all of this correctly, and I have serious self-doubt, the tees and hoses I would need for my specific LX are as follows:

87245-60460 x2 - Tees
87245-6A180 - Hose Right T to Firewall
87245-6A210 - Hose Left T to Firewall
99556-20155 - Hose Right T Leg
87245-6A800 - Hose Left T Leg
87245-6A190 - Hose Right T Arm
87245-6A220 - Hose Left T Arm

Can anyone unequivocally confirm/check this for me? Especially concerned that I have chosen the right options for the -6A180/181 and - 6A190/191 options. Also saw mention elsewhere of a 99556-20200 instead of the -20155 listed.

Thanks in advance. Maybe the spreadsheet snip will be useful to others..

​

 

[Qtonic]

from 01/98 to 02/99
87245-6A180
87245-6A190
87245-6A170 (this is listed as 01/98 to 01/99 in my source)
87245-6A210
87245-6A220
87245-6A200

from 02/99 to 08/02
87245-6A180
87245-6A190
99556-20200
87245-6A210
87245-6A220
87245-6A201

from 08/02 to 12/04
87245-6A180
87245-6A190
99556-20155
87245-6A210
87245-6A220
87245-6A800

from 01/05 on...
87245-6A181
87245-6A191
99556-20155
87245-6A210
87245-6A220
87245-6A800

clamps (all)
4x 90467-19022
8x 96134-42100
Note: The diagrams shows 4x 96136-52101 and 4x 96134-42100 instead of 8x 96134-42100. I found 96136-52101 to be wrong (too small) for both my 98 and 07. 8x 96134-42100 makes sense because they are for the same size hose and appear to match what was factory installed.

I don't know how to handle ambiguous dates for hoses such as 02/1999 or 08/2002.

 

[Qtonic]

My LX is a 2005 with a manufacture date of 08/2004. Is that the date I should use to determine which hose to order when the part numbers differ? Also, note on the diagram/parts list on the lexus page that there are two hoses listed but not shown in the diagram, both with the part number 87245-6A090. What are those? They are the second and third items in the list on the Lexus page.

Yes, reference your manufacture date of 08/2004 for the correct parts. Your part numbers are right. Hoses 87245-6A090 go into the rear heater core in back. 87256A is the same part number.

 

[MuseChaser]

Thank you Soooo much! Ordering now... very much appreciated.