Distributor O-Ring

[Nomis]

I need to replace the smaller O-ring on the shaft that seals out the oil. It looks like I'm leaking a fair amount of oil out of mine. Can I pull the distributor out far enough - without removing the battery box, or will it be necessary to remove it?

 

[cruiserdan]

You can remove the distributor without pulling the battery box. Remove the cap first and mark the orientation of the rotor and scribe around the mounting bolt so that you can get it back togther in the same orientation.

 

[Nomis]

Thanks Cdan - IIRC the rotor can only go in correctly or 180* out - right? Just wanted to make sure I only have to mark the relative location of the rotor to the housing. Also, I seem to be losing about a teaspoon of oil per day under the distributor would this be considered normal for a bad O-ring?

 

[cruiserman]

Rotate the motor over to TDC compression, and you've got nothing to worry about. Mark the dizzy relative to it's mount to keep timing the same.

 

[RavenTai]

the 1FZ is not a demostic engine, it can be inseted with the rotor in as many positions as its drive gear has teeth (see the smallest gear in the foregroud of my avatar)

like Cdan said, mark the rotor to the distributor and distributor to the head and to keep your timing colse, turinign to TDC of compression on #1 woudl not hurt and may help if you screw up the marks.

 

[Nomis]

Thanks for the info guys, I'll be sure to mark them both.

 

[cruiserdan]

Oh,

The o-ring is a 90099-14118.

 

[nyk438]

Now that I just read this I noticed my oil leaks got worse after I replaced the distributor in my 91' whats this o-ring yoru talking about?

 

[Rookie2]

turning to TDC of compression on #1 would not hurt and may help if you screw up the marks.

Can this be done without removing the valve cover?


Rookie2

 

[RavenTai]

yes. bring the mark on the crank to "0", if the rotor is pointign at #1 you are done . if the rotor is pointing 180 out from #1 (dont feel like looking up the firing order to tell you with one that is) than rotate the crank 360 degrees and it will point to #1

 

[RavenTai]

also if the distributor is not installed then you can find TDC of compression by removign the #1 spak plug and blow air down its tube, if air comes out the intake and exhuast rotate 360 degrees of the crank.

 

[Rookie2]

yes. bring the mark on the crank to "0", if the rotor is pointign at #1 you are done . if the rotor is pointing 180 out from #1 (dont feel like looking up the firing order to tell you with one that is) than rotate the crank 360 degrees and it will point to #1

Cool. Thanks. I guess I should of looked in the FSM first. It describes it pretty well.

 

[Nomis]

Done

All told, it's probably a 25 min job - I took longer as I didn't want to flub it up. I removed the cap with wires attached and moved it up and out of the way. Then marked the bolt/washer to mount with the edge of a flathead (as well as take some photos for reference). The old rubber O-ring had definately hardened - and the exit path that the oil was taking was clearly visable. New one is in and she started right up - going to take it on a test drive in a bit.

Question: The shaft and gear had a little oil discoloration on it - kind of a medium to darkish brown to it - is this normal? Maybe a little oil coking? I'll post a pic later.

 

[cruiserdan]

Normal.

 

[RavenTai]

yep normal, everything foreward of the timing chain does not get much oil flow. just mist and tends to sludge up

 

[Nomis]

Here's a pic of the distributor as promised. Oil was leaking past the seal, down the back of the distributor and flowing down by the alternator and timing cover - as well as being flung by the belts. I also had a small puddle of oil on top of the skid plate - so we'll see if this remedies that as well.

 

[Clutchee]

So can you get the O-ring from Toyota or do you have to get the whole distributor?

 

[cruiserdan]

See post #7