Distributor leaking through the cap....

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Is this the “O s***” variety of leak or “wipe it and roll”? It’s 100% leaking from the non serviceable seal, but how do you know when to replace I guess is what I’m asking. Im not sure what qualifies as a slow leak, but every time the cruiser has been sitting a while, I see the spot on the belt.
That is the one you cannot do much about.

Use electrical cleaner and spray out the dizzy, wipe, and assemble.

The one that drips on the alternator belts is the "dizzy O-RIng" that you pull the dizzy, change the O-Ring, and reinstall.

That said, after you clean out the interior of your dizzy, go fix your vacuum leaks, change the O-Ring on your oil fill cap, fix your PCV valve system, and clean your throttle body.

All of those things allow the engine to be under negative pressure all of the time. When the engine is under negative, the oil will not leak into the distributor. There is a vent hole on the dizzy that allows ambient air to be drawn in. If your engine crankcase is under pressure (such as blow-by from worn rings or lots of vacuum losses) then the oil will be pushed out of the weakest areas and this is one of those places.

I noticed my PCV port on the TB was clogged and I had to go in there with a screwdriver and scrape out all the goo. I drive mine a LOT and I noticed that there was a "wet spot" around the PCV valve grommet and that only happens under pressure.
 
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It’s a nuisance but not likely to cause a breakdown. If I was going out on an epic adventure I would replace it. I think the only real issue you are facing is a potential engine misfire, engine light, and small oil drips, belts could possible slip for a bit for a second, but it’s obvious you don’t care about belts looking at the ones you are running🤣
Hahaha! Well I got new belts just yesterday! Those were on the truck when I got it!
 
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That is the one you cannot do much about.

Use electrical cleaner and spray out the dizzy, wipe, and assemble.

The one that drips on the alternator belts is the "dizzy O-RIng" that you pull the dizzy, change the O-Ring, and reinstall.

That said, after you clean out the interior of your dizzy, go fix your vacuum leaks, change the O-Ring on your oil fill cap, fix your PV valve system, and clean your throttle body.

All of those things allow the engine to be under negative pressure all of the time. When the engine is under negative, the oil will not leak into the distributor. There is a vent hole on the dizzy that allows ambient air to be drawn in. If your engine crankcase is under pressure (such as blow-by from worn rings or lots of vacuum losses) then the oil will be pushed out of the weakest areas and this is one of those places.

I noticed my PCV port on the TB was clogged and I had to go in there with a screwdriver and scrape out all the goo. I drive mine a LOT and I noticed that there was a "wet spot" around the PCV valve grommet and that only happens under pressure.
Thanks for the guidance! Adding all these items to my TO DO list now!
 
Hopefully these are better, the ones on there now scream at me like my wife
If you got Toyota belts, they are not ribbed for her pleasure, but they are much better on the ears.

Some of the Gates belts have the ribs on the back and they howl like beatch on the idler pulley.

Make sure they are tight enough. It feels like they are too tight when they are just right.
 
If you got Toyota belts, they are not ribbed for her pleasure, but they are much better on the ears.

Some of the Gates belts have the ribs on the back and they howl like beatch on the idler pulley.

Make sure they are tight enough. It feels like they are too tight when they are just right.
I got the Toyota belts, will probably throw them on this evening...I accidentally looked outside and started to sweat.
 
I got the Toyota belts, will probably throw them on this evening...I accidentally looked outside and started to sweat.
I see you're in BR, LA. I spent some time between NOLA and BRLA in the month of March this year.

If I end up down there again, I'll see if we could meet and do lunch or dinner or something. Unfortunately, I won't be driving my LC.

I had dinner at Parrain's a few times. Very good food!
 
I see you're in BR, LA. I spent some time between NOLA and BRLA in the month of March this year.

If I end up down there again, I'll see if we could meet and do lunch or dinner or something. Unfortunately, I won't be driving my LC.

I had dinner at Parrain's a few times. Very good food!
Parrains is pretty good, next time you are in BR area, try Louisiana Seafood in Baton Rouge, or French Market Bistro...goooooood stuff, just dont go expecting to keep to a diet! lol. Im always ready to meet up with people and talk shop! It's been a few years since Ive been in Kansas, but was in Wichita for work once and was blown away! Had a great time!

When I rented a car up there it came with this weird stick on the drivers seat...I went back in and asked what it was for and they all laughed at me and said I better make sure to bring it into my hotel with me or I wouldn't be getting into car in the morning! It was some sort of pry bar to open a frozen car door! I had never seen one of those in my life!
 
Just postulating...is it conceivable that 300kmi rigs living with vss blow-by that overcomes the standard removal system will leak from a bad shaft seal even when everything else is sussed well? And even still when the rig sits?

Ultimately my issue with the leaking was where the oil went after it dripped - down onto the alternator and windings, where it ran into the plug filling it up, then on down to the frame and on a real adventure from there.
Or/And down onto the power steering hoses, and over to the metal coils and down to the rad support. Down to the front skid, out to the steering damper, sometimes to the pitman arm and then to the ground.
It's just so much better to see that entire area clean every time I pop the hood since replacing the *alt* for the shaft seal.

edit: *dizzy*, not alt
 
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Just postulating...is it conceivable that 300kmi rigs living with vss blow-by that overcomes the standard removal system will leak from a bad shaft seal even when everything else is sussed well? And even still when the rig sits?

Ultimately my issue with the leaking was where the oil went after it dripped - down onto the alternator and windings, where it ran into the plug filling it up, then on down to the frame and on a real adventure from there.
Or/And down onto the power steering hoses, and over to the metal coils and down to the rad support. Down to the front skid, out to the steering damper, sometimes to the pitman arm and then to the ground.
It's just so much better to see that entire area clean every time I pop the hood since replacing the alt for the shaft seal.
What you are describing there is the oil from the external Dizzy O-Ring.

Will it do it while it sits? No.

Can there be enough blow-by to cause this to this level? Yes, however, you will also be fogging mozzies out the tailpipe all the time as well at that level.

My truck has 318Kmi on it and I don't have the issue as long as I stay on top of the maintenance and don't run continuously at 4500 RPM. Yes, running at higher RPM will allow more blow-by and will hold more oil inside the valve cover during operation and will allow the PCV system to suck up more oil and run it through the intake.
 
What you are describing there is the oil from the external Dizzy O-Ring.

🤔 no this was after replacing that. Ya know, cheapest thing first. lol
But based on your response and having no other point of reference, I'm willing to concede it was a significant leak thru the dizzy shaft. ✋ :)
 
Morning Mud :flipoff2:

Good read, I noticed a miss off stop signs and investigated, found a good amount of oil inside the distributor cap.

Did a 1fz head gasket/mild rebuild (no rings, compression was fsm fantastic) a few years ago and addressed all the PCV / intake oil blow by issues. Turned out the sparkplug seals created a Venturi effect blowing oil mist through the PCV up into the intake.

In 2023 after the mild rebuild I picked up a brand new 1fz factory short block and parked it in my shop. I'm surprised I haven't built it yet, but it's on the list. I think I'm going to monitor my distributor and see how much oil is getting in there over time.

My guess is it's going to take months to build up oil.

I was kind of waiting for some of those big deal Parts like a new distributor for the new engine build. But who knows. I might just take the plunge and not worry about it either.

Cheers 🍻

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