Distributor base removal/installation

[cruiserhound]

Good morning folks. I have to swap out my roached distributor base. I have never swapped out a distributor base and would like to do it right the first time. I've read elsewhere that you should rotate the engine to top dead center on cylinder 1, the 3FE repair manual recommends it as well, but was hoping to avoid this extra step. Has any one done this on the 3FE and do they have any recommendations for ease of install. Maybe @jonheld has some helpful advise for me.

 

[bloc]

Why do you want to avoid the method specified in the manual?

 

[cruiserhound]

Why do you want to avoid the method specified in the manual?

Because I've never done it and sometimes there are easier ways that work just as well as manufacturer specified protocol. If this is the case and all I have to do is make some notches, uninstall, line up notches and reinstall then easy enough. If Toyota recommends this method in the highly unlikely scenario that it will be easier to re-install if you completely mess-up the installation and don't know which cylinder is at TDC then...well, that IS the smarter route I guess, but maybe not the easiest, that is why I'm looking for opinions.

 

[cruiserhound]

I suppose you are right @bloc but it is human nature to look for shortcuts.

 

[jonheld]

My advice is to follow the FSM.

 

[BILT4ME]

You don't HAVE to rotate the engine to TDC on #1 to do this. Mark the location of the distributor BODY relative to the block. Also TAKE A PICTURE of the rotor location BEFORE you pull the distributor as well as JUST after it disengages from the gear.

Position the new one in the SAME position as the LAST picture, then insert fully and make sure that the FINAL rotor position is in EXACTLY the same place RELATIVE TO THE BLOCK and close to the same position on the distributor body.

Align the distributor body to the marks made by the OLD distributor and finish assembly.

DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE AT ALL WHILE YOU HAVE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT.

Then time it properly and you're done.

 

[bloc]

Technically that advice will work, the problem comes if something goes wrong and you have to troubleshoot. Without the distributor keyed to #1TDC you'll have to pull the valve cover to find #1TDC, definitely adding to the required work.

Simply using the existing distributor base to locate cyl #1, then setting it to TDC via the crank pulley mark makes everything afterward easier.

 

[cruiserhound]

I successfully changed out the base. I was going to do it by the book. After striking out at three different stores trying to find a big enough socket or wrench for the crankshaft bolt I gave up. I wasted two hours and decided to get it done. I recognize the potential folly in not doing it by the book but decided to take my chances. Thanks for the advice guys!

 

[BILT4ME]

Technically that advice will work, the problem comes if something goes wrong and you have to troubleshoot. Without the distributor keyed to #1TDC you'll have to pull the valve cover to find #1TDC, definitely adding to the required work.

Simply using the existing distributor base to locate cyl #1, then setting it to TDC via the crank pulley mark makes everything afterward easier.

Technically, I was right. That's how I did mine, that's how the OP did it. That's how mechanics beat flat rate times.

If you miss it and get it wrong, you do NIT have to remove the VC to find TDC on #1.

Done it many times on Studebakers, Chevrolets, and Toyotas.

 

[bloc]

That's how mechanics beat flat rate times

...by a minute?

Sure, in this case if you don't have the tools take the risk. Trying to go by the book cost OP a couple hours of driving around. I'd agree that wasn't worth it.

But yes, for most people it is ultimately easier to just turn the engine to #1 TDC and use the very convenient alignment marks on the distributor body provided by Toyota that account for gear tooth angle, vs troubleshoot it when they are off by a tooth.