DISC BRAKES FOR REAR 60/62's

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The TSM transfer case park brake uses a single mechanical caliper and works great. I sweated the possibility of losing a u-joint, the hydraulic brakes, and the park brake at the same time, but it think it's statistically insignificant. If that happens it's your turn for a wild ride.
 
Those older wilwood mech. calipers were made by Hayes as I recall. They do not have a lot of clamping power. Would be OK on a street car unless you live in San Fransisco or some place similar. I wouldn't want them on a 4wd.

It would be easy, and mostly accurate, to condemn hydro-mechanical calipers based on the Cadillac calipers, but a friend up in Canada has been using something off the rear of some Ford product on his Early Bronco (sic, only original part is the front axle housing - and it's been heavily modified) with great success. If you happen to know Gary Y, talk to him about them.

The most likely failure scenario that I can see for a p-brake placed on the rear drive-shaft would be no locker/LSD, one tire on something very slippery. Even then I think the odds are pretty low that the truck would move. Drive-shaft p-brakes were used for many years, but reports of truck moving while those were engaged aren't rampant.
 
i built a similar tcase ebrake using sky manuf rotor and a similar go cart caliper. not that difficult to manufacture. I have caddy ones on my 62 and they do suck for an ebrake.
 
I did a comparison of the stock park brakes on my '83 vs the TSM xfer case one on my '84: TSM won hands down. I even tried it as an ebrake, & it stopped the rig from about 30mph with a little complaining (the guys at TSM were surprised I did that, but I wanted to know what to expect in case it ever came down to that).

So I'm sold on it, particularly since I didn't have to design & build it. Did I tell you I'm pretty much cured of custom?
 
it wasn't an option in the day and I agree, it's easier to buy one to bolt on.
 
If you wanted to get ultra fancy you could do an internal drum parking brake such as a 4th gen F body where it applies to the inside of the rotor hat. Here's a pic to show what I mean:
140-9315_kit-lg.jpg


If it was me I'd go with a T-case brake and rear axle parking brakes but I'm a fan of redundancy and to me there's no such thing as overkill in that department.

I'll try to grab a pic of the wilwood unit I'm thinking of when I get a chance, they have a very nice billet body and clamp very well. I checked my current catalog and couldn't find them but at the time we went with the best we could get since it's a $100K+ build.
 
Here I go again shilling for The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. in Castle Rock, CO: they offer a complete rear Eldo (with park brake)/Monte Carlo (without) setup for a semi-floater rear: FJ-40+ Land Cruiser which is what Tapage and I think Spook have..

yap .. that's right, but my e-brake just won't hold my 60 in any situation .. did your t-case e-brake hold your Cruiser in any hill .?
 
There are GM e-brake rear calipers that bolt on the same as the simple MonteCarlo front calipers.

BUT, the p-brake effectiveness sucks. It's not a question of adjustment or installation, they are just poorly designed mechanisms that barely work.

Better would be to use the big calipers (89 V6 4runner) in the front and solid rotors(81-85 minitruck) & small floating calipers (80's corolla) in the rear. Fab a p-brake on the t-case.

Jim, have you done a setup with the minitruck rotors and Corolla calipers on the rear axle of a 60? Curious to see how you went about it if you've done one up before.
 
Generally, rear discs are about the most hyped and least useful expensive mod for a 60. Well adjusted drum brakes work great on these trucks.
j
 
Generally, rear discs are about the most hyped and least useful expensive mod for a 60. Well adjusted drum brakes work great on these trucks.
j

When set up right, rear discs can work great. It just takes quite a bit of work for the 60 series. The bitch of it is, it's taken a long time to find a solution that can be naturally (ie: without use of a proportioning valve) proportioned properly with either stock front calipers or even the larger 4Runner calipers. Though I have yet to try it (it's on the list of winter projects now that I have a welder), I'm thinking Boots4's setup (4Runner calipers in the front and 60 series calipers and rotors in the back) or the one Jim described in this thread might be winners. Especially when used with an upgraded master cylinder and booster.
 
Tap -
I pulled both 60s up a 15-20 degree incline & set the park brakes. The stock '83, with good rear brakes, rolled back while the '84 with the TSM tcase park brake held steady.

Spook -
I still haven't installed the new axles on the '84, but they will have the 4RNR calipers on the front & the stock 60/62s on the rear. Per NTSQD's recommendation, I went with higher-friction pads on the front trying to achieve some kind of balance. He thinks it'll be over-braked on the rear without a prop valve & those have drawbacks, too. I don't know of another smaller, dual or quad-piston caliper that would fit. I hate floating-frame calipers: they never seem to work well for very long.
 
Tap -
I pulled both 60s up a 15-20 degree incline & set the park brakes. The stock '83, with good rear brakes, rolled back while the '84 with the TSM tcase park brake held steady.

Spook -
I still haven't installed the new axles on the '84, but they will have the 4RNR calipers on the front & the stock 60/62s on the rear. Per NTSQD's recommendation, I went with higher-friction pads on the front trying to achieve some kind of balance. He thinks it'll be over-braked on the rear without a prop valve & those have drawbacks, too. I don't know of another smaller, dual or quad-piston caliper that would fit. I hate floating-frame calipers: they never seem to work well for very long.

I have the DBA 4000 series slotted calipers in the front with ceramic pads and just upgrading from standard to slotted rotors made a noticeable difference (especially with elimination of brake fade). I'll keep my slotted with 4Runner calipers and ceramic pads in the front, and use just standard OEM rotors (got a pair of Brembos ready to go whenever I get the downtime to do the job) with ceramic pads in the back. I've still got a Wilwood valve plumbed into my rear lines so I'll be able to fine tune any proportioning with that, but I'm hoping that I can just leave it wide open and be right on, if not close, with the proportioning.

Oh BTW I finally picked up the H55 and tcase that I got from Georg. Hoping my January pay will get me the parts I still need for the conversion, along with the TSM kit and I'll get with you about the control cable.
 
Ideal brake balance would give you the most possible rear braking power in every situation. Welcome to Adaptive Control Electronics and ABS.
Short of that there are two opposite balance needs present on this forum and those like it. The first is slow speed, crawling type operation where the front and rear braking power can be the same because there is little to no weight transfer. Identical front and rear rotors, pads, and calipers can work in this use just fine.
The second is higher speed operation, like in public roads driving, where weight transfer is significant. In this second case too much rear brake power is dangerous. To make matters worse, how much is too much depends on the speed and the vehicle's loading.

With statically set devices, like different front & rear piston sizes, rotor diameters and p-valves, you have to make the setting for the worst case and then suffer the reduction in rear braking power in all less extreme situations. Even adjustable p-valves can't make this any better, though I suppose that with trial and error (approach this with EXTREME caution!) you could find the settings for each typical loading. Find my post on p-valves in "Comments on Brakes", they are not a typical pressure regulator like an EFI FPR or a welding regulator. I see them as a necessary evil to be added only when the system can't be balanced well enough without them.

What is needed is something that automatically adjusts for both the loading and the weight transfer. The 62's LSPV does this. So did the LSPV on my Mini truck. I don't know about the 62 part, but the unit on my Mini ran out of adjustment range and has been rendered static. Which is a shame, because the promise is there.

Jim, have you done a setup with the minitruck rotors and Corolla calipers on the rear axle of a 60? Curious to see how you went about it if you've done one up before.
I do not like floating calipers, but those suggested by Jim would be worth looking into for an SF rear axle. Floating calipers can 'follow' the rotor as it moves in and out the tiny bit that the axle shaft is allowed to. That results in less pad knock-back which translates to less pedal stroke after a long period of no brake use.
The more that I think about it, the more that I am convinced that floating rear calipers are the best choice for the semi-floating rear axles. I'm not fond of them, but I do think they will be the best choice for this application because of the statement above. I too, am interested to learn more about this possible option.

The wilwood kit shown above uses the Explorer p-brake components that I suggested some time ago. Late Corvette p-brake parts are similar, and I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the p-brakes on the rear disc equipped Ford F-150's and F-250/350's are a similar design too.
 
No, I have not used the corolla caliper on Cruiser rear yet. As somebody said, when the drums are working & adjusted, they are hard to beat...

The rear discs from Land Cruiser also incorporate the rotor hat p-brake design, FWIW.

Also 92-newer Isuzu trooper has a rear disc w/ p-brake in hat, floating caliper and 6 lug rotors.
 
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No, I have not used the toyota caliper on Cruiser rear yet. As somebody said, when the drums are working & adjusted, they are hard to beat...

The rear discs from Land Cruiser also incorporate the rotor hat p-brake design, FWIW.

Also 92-newer Isuzu trooper has a rear disc w/ p-brake in hat, floating caliper and 6 lug rotors.

Funny you mention that Jim.

My buddy, who has been a mechanic and mud truck builder since we were young, just stopped by the other day talking about putting trooper rear disc brake set up on a 60 rear. He has been building a jeep for his daughter. He wanted my 60 parts truck rears because he knows from years of experience how tough he cruiser drivetrain is. He wound up finding a set of 60 rears and not taking mine thankfully.
I'll have to ask him what he is doing to fit them. He acted like it was a pretty easy modification.
 
you need a mechanical device for an e-brake...not hydraulic. Line loc's apply 100% of their appllicatoin force and they are either on or off. Line loc make great burn out tools when used ont he front brakes on race cars and can be good to hold vehicles in a stationary position...just not suited for a emercency brake.

The other thing..is that a line lock uses the on-board hydraulic system...if that fails (your normal brakes) then line-loc fails too.
 
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