- Thread starter
- #221
Looks right, but the pic is so washed out it's hard to tell.
Disable the EGR system the (mostly) Toyota way (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Ebag333
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Looks right, but the pic is so washed out it's hard to tell.
Are any of you having a ecu not ready issue with the resistor mod? I finally got around to checking why my scan gauge always said not ready when checking codes and found with the factory egr system intact w/ the cel on it reads as ready. But with the resistor in place it reads not ready with no cel. Should I try a different resistor? I really dont remember what number I used.
alia176
SILVER Star
Hmm, i've had good luck with using 3.9 kohm resistor. Curious as to what is going on with your rig....
Dont have a scan gauge, but the not ready error I have read here now and again. Are you unplugging/disabling the SG before and after trying the mod? Seems that SG error has fixed itself by un-hooking, etc and putting back in. just a random thought.
- Thread starter
- #225
It's probably the drive cycle test (aka Readiness Tests Drive Patterns). It's actually very difficult to do.
Find out which codes aren't ready. The common two for me have been the O2 sensors and the EGR system.
The EGR system is the more difficult two in my opinion. The FSM has the following info:
The cat monitor is slightly easier, just more time consuming.
I've attached the FSM PDF.
I just swapped my 1k for a 3.9k-ohm one with the same results. Why would the resister be making my computer always be not ready?
- Thread starter
- #227
Without knowing what's not ready, we can't really help you....
Its the egr. Or at least it went to ready when I installed the factory temp sensor.
- Thread starter
- #229
Have you followed the drive cycle instructions in the FSM?
Are you sure that you're meeting all the readiness test preconditions?
The EGR system can easily take me 2+ weeks of driving, even if I'm TRYING to get it to flag good. Having a cold engine at start makes things very difficult.
I'll give it some more time, but I did drive it on the interstate for about 15 min. Previously its been in the not ready stage for over a year.
I guess I should have done more research before deleting my EGR. I am having the same issue as "lndcruz"...
I can not get my ECU to go to ready state to get it through inspection. To think I shopped for a 96 to avoid the sniffer and only need a scan test, now I can't get it to go through the can test.
I will try the above required cycle tomorrow morning once the coolant is cold... any one else have luck with this?
I can not get my ECU to go to ready state to get it through inspection. To think I shopped for a 96 to avoid the sniffer and only need a scan test, now I can't get it to go through the can test.
I will try the above required cycle tomorrow morning once the coolant is cold... any one else have luck with this?
Update: I've been running w/ a 10kohm resistor and vacuum lines blocked for almost 1 year now and I am happy to report:
1. No CELs
2. Passed CA emissions with no problems (no "not ready" issues or excess emissions- HC just a tad higher than 2 years ago, when I didn't have the mod, which is likely insignificant)
1. No CELs
2. Passed CA emissions with no problems (no "not ready" issues or excess emissions- HC just a tad higher than 2 years ago, when I didn't have the mod, which is likely insignificant)
Thanks for this input... it gives me hope.
I just did exactly what the FSM says to do to get to EGR readiness, no MIL, coolant below 104F, IAT above 14F, started the truck and immediately went 1/4 mile to the end of my street and turned onto the main drag and drove with cruise set at 46MPH for 4 minutes, no hard acceleration. Then parked for 4 minutes. EGR is still reporting as not ready.
I am going to try switching from 2K ohm to 10K ohm as you have and repeat, hoping for different results, I will report back.
good results w/ 3.3kohm resistor. The trick is that you have to do the intial testing in Ca (the reason for the stupid egr in the first place) with f you CA written in in dust somewhere on the car while transporting an assault rifle or .50bmg. It works.
Well, tried a 10k resistor. Did exactly as the FSM procedure states... still not ready.
My only other curiosity is if the catalyst test needs to be ready before the EGR test can go to ready...
I was actually considering putting a 10-100k Potentiometer on the connection and trying to simulate what the EGR temp would do during the FSM driving loop, just until it goes ready, then putting the fixed resistor back in place. Seems like a whole lot of effort though.
My only other curiosity is if the catalyst test needs to be ready before the EGR test can go to ready...
I was actually considering putting a 10-100k Potentiometer on the connection and trying to simulate what the EGR temp would do during the FSM driving loop, just until it goes ready, then putting the fixed resistor back in place. Seems like a whole lot of effort though.
Another update... EGR will not go from "NOT READY" to "READY" with this mod in place. I spoke with alaskacruiser and he installed his 10k resistor after his system was already in a state of readiness. However, since I had my battery out when pulling the intake manifold as well as doing a host of other maintenance, my ECU will not go ready. If you end up in "NOT READY" status with your EGR removed, putting in this resistor will not get you there.
I am going to attempt to fool the ECU beyond just what has been attempted in this thread so far. My Plan:
- Reinstall EGR Temp Sensor, while leaving all other components removed.
- At the ECU connectors, use EGR VSV +12V signal to trigger a relay. This relay will bridge a second 4.7k resistor in PARALLEL with the factory EGR Temp sensor.
Assuming that the EGR Temp sensor will now be reading the intake manifold temperature, it will alway be comewhere in the 65k-100k range of resistance. When the second resistor is added in parallel, the resistance that the ECU "sees" will change to 4.38k-4.48k
I am believing that this will let the ECU see it's desired change in resistance when it is turning the EGR on and off via the VSV. If this is the case, than I should be able to get to a state of readiness and get this pig through the emissions inspection.
I will report back in a day or so when I have this complete.
I am going to attempt to fool the ECU beyond just what has been attempted in this thread so far. My Plan:
- Reinstall EGR Temp Sensor, while leaving all other components removed.
- At the ECU connectors, use EGR VSV +12V signal to trigger a relay. This relay will bridge a second 4.7k resistor in PARALLEL with the factory EGR Temp sensor.
Assuming that the EGR Temp sensor will now be reading the intake manifold temperature, it will alway be comewhere in the 65k-100k range of resistance. When the second resistor is added in parallel, the resistance that the ECU "sees" will change to 4.38k-4.48k
I am believing that this will let the ECU see it's desired change in resistance when it is turning the EGR on and off via the VSV. If this is the case, than I should be able to get to a state of readiness and get this pig through the emissions inspection.
I will report back in a day or so when I have this complete.
Readiness Achieved!!!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/437888-egr-readiness-achieved-egr-removed.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/437888-egr-readiness-achieved-egr-removed.html
Can anyone tell me what the part number is or what truck came with the one piece heater pipe that is in this picture?
I have been searching but have come up with nothing.
Thanks!
I have been searching but have come up with nothing.
Thanks!Honestly, I don't think it made much difference at all. Other than what you mentioned regarding noise. I do have more room under the hood and a little less plumbing. I installed a bypass pipe from a 95+ in case I ever decide to do an OBA system.
i just posted it in another topic named DELETING EGR ----> https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/573070-deleting-egr.html#post7456369
After I spoke with SELECTA and I looked at a picture of EGR on the forum, i have an idea. But i have not petrol engine.... Is necessary that you make a test. Measure the resistance of EGR at various temperatures and whether resistance increases or decreases with increasing temperature. There are electronic components called NTC resistor and PTC resistor. NEGATIVE TEMPERATURE COEFFICENT is NTC and PTC is POSITIVE TEMPERATURE COEFFICENT. In NTC they decrease internal resistance with increasing temperature and in PTC increases resistance to increased temperature. After understanding how EGR resistance works, you can use PTC or NTC resistance values similar to EGR. PTC or NTC you will use should feel exhaust gas temperature near cap egr for sending to the ECU a similar value generated from original EGR.
After I spoke with SELECTA and I looked at a picture of EGR on the forum, i have an idea. But i have not petrol engine.... Is necessary that you make a test. Measure the resistance of EGR at various temperatures and whether resistance increases or decreases with increasing temperature. There are electronic components called NTC resistor and PTC resistor. NEGATIVE TEMPERATURE COEFFICENT is NTC and PTC is POSITIVE TEMPERATURE COEFFICENT. In NTC they decrease internal resistance with increasing temperature and in PTC increases resistance to increased temperature. After understanding how EGR resistance works, you can use PTC or NTC resistance values similar to EGR. PTC or NTC you will use should feel exhaust gas temperature near cap egr for sending to the ECU a similar value generated from original EGR.
