Diode Dynamics SSC2 Pods + SS Lightbar + AuxBeam 6 Switch Panel Install Fun (Prinsu Rack) (1 Viewer)

[Dmonies]

Spent the past week installing and wiring lighting on my LC. I wanted to make it as clean as possible so I had to make sure I planned it all before getting started. Before getting started, this is what I purchased for this install.

• Diode Dynamics Stage Series Lightbar 42 Inch
• 4x Diode Dynamics SSC2 Light Pods
• AuxBeam AR-600
• Prinsu LightBar Cutout Wind Deflector
• 6 Gauge Wire
• Wire Loom Conduit
• 14/2 Gauge Wire (for the Lightbar)
• Adhesive Wire Clips
• KC Wire Hider
• 3 Way Switch Rocker
• Inline Fuse Holder
• Non-Twist Wire Connectors
• Double Sided 3M Tape
• Junction Boxes
• Heat Shrink Tubing
• Plastic Waterproof Connectors (for Junction box)
• 14/3 Gauge Wire (for Light Pods)

Note: This isn't a tutorial or anything, reason I say that is because I didn't take pics of every step!!

Here is a pic of the job completed on my cruiser

I wanted to install 4 light pods (one on each corner of the vehicle), to do so I had to buy the Diode Dynamics CC2 Light Pods that also have an amber backlight. For this I needed 2 junction boxes illustrated below.

 

[Dmonies]

I needed the 14/3 wire here because the light pods have one main and one backlight bringing it to a total of 3 wires to power the pod. First thing I had to do we drill into the junction boxes and attach the plastic waterproof connectors to feed my wire through. After that I mounted the boxes one at the rear passenger side and one at the front passenger side. The one with 4 connectors goes to the front. I did get lucky and was able to pass the 14/3 wire thru the prinsu cross bar channels which made this cleaner than I expected.

Disregard the blue wire, it does nothing. It came with the connector. The only wires used are the red (main), yellow (backlight), and negative.

Here, the mounting bracket screw was bigger that any of the slotted spots on my prinsu rack so I had to drill to expand some of the slots to fit the bracket screw in.

Here is a photo of the front junction box:

 

[Dmonies]

Once I got those boxes set up, it was time to run the cables into them and merge the lines. This is where I used the non twist connectors.

I used the adhesive cable clips to hold the line til it reached the front junction box:

Here are images of the front box

 

[Dmonies]

Now to seal them up and start plugging in the front pods

At this point everything on the roof rack (pods) are wired up. Now to install the AuxBeam Switch system

 

[Dmonies]

For the Auxbeam switch I chose to mount it right next to the sunroof control

This photo shows an auxiliary battery label, this is for the future when I install my secondary battery, I want to make this auxbeam switch as the momentary button to link the two batteries incase I need to jump. A feature the RedArc Isolator has.

The switch panel has a 12v 5amp line that tells the switch panel to turn on, auxbeam instructs you to connect it to your ACC so it’s not always on. Since I want to run a dual battery in the future I wanted to create a way to have it use ACC or engage directly with the battery if I wanna use it when the car is off. I bought a 3 way switch and linked one end to my fuse box and another directly to my battery (with 5amp fuse)

This switch allows me to toggle the experience.

Here is the diagram

Next was a ton of running lines and connecting it all together. Here is a photo of the module with the cover off. The rack lights and backlight are on the 10A circuit. Currently my light bar is on the last 20A circuit (will be moved when my ditch lights arrive). I chose to install this on the passenger side in preparation for your dual battery set up.

Ok so now to the lightbar, wiring was essentially the same, the toughest part was actually fitting on the light bar on the prinsu wind deflector. Prince’s deflector is meant for 40inch bars only, I had to cut less than an inch on each side of the deflector to expand of gap. From there it was a simple bolt on and adjustment.