Yeah, it is always better to have power everywhere, but in the instances above, I am not sure if having power to the front axle will help that much. I think that VSC (stability control) is the thing that keeps you from going off the road, rather than power to the front axle. Once a slip is detected, power is cut to the throttle...and then individual brake(s) are applied to keep you going in the direction of the steering wheel. I am not sure if power to the front wheel will make that much difference in your situations. BUT, i guess maybe the power to the front axle could prevent it from slipping in the first place??
Difference between Land Cruiser and Sequoia? Really. (1 Viewer)
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Yeah, it is always better to have power everywhere, but in the instances above, I am not sure if having power to the front axle will help that much. I think that VSC (stability control) is the thing that keeps you from going off the road, rather than power to the front axle. Once a slip is detected, power is cut to the throttle...and then individual brake(s) are applied to keep you going in the direction of the steering wheel. I am not sure if power to the front wheel will make that much difference in your situations. BUT, i guess maybe the power to the front axle could prevent it from slipping in the first place??
Does the exact opposite for me. I'll be into an Audible and find that I've been driving at 5 under for the last XX minutes because it's so subtle at slowing down. I always use 'standard' cruise because it forces me to participate and change lanes. Plus 'standard' allows me to set 8 over rather than 10 over.
Don't get me wrong, I love the upcoming vehcile automation technologies. This one just isn't it for me.
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Think of it this way: would you rather treat cancer or prevent cancer? Perhaps that's a bit dramatic. VSC is a safety net that will intervene once the vehicle has already crossed the boundary. Full time 4WD will act to prevent the VSC from needing to engage in the first place. Not to mention having the ability to quickly pull out an merge on rain slicked roads without lighting up the rear. Having a full time 4WD vehicle with a true center differential (not just a part time transfer case) is highly desirable.
This video is with a trailer so the motions are exaggerated, but the principle applies whether pulling or single vehicle.
bloc
SILVER Star
A primary difference in slick conditions is with AWD the front axle will pull that end of the vehicle in the direction the tires are pointed, vs in 2WD the rear axle doing the pushing and the front tires merely directing the front of the vehicle.
I removed the center diff on my 80 and installed a part-time kit. This was to accomplish truly being able to disable the front driveline in case of trouble, as well as avoid on-road vibrations due to my less-than-ideal driveline angles. There was a HUGE difference in how that thing felt in 2WD vs AWD.. before the work the front would pull itself around. After? It felt less connected to the road.. and MUCH MUCH more likely to spin up an inside rear on tight turns in the wet. Granted this thing was lifted 2" with a ton of suspension travel and on 35s.. I don't think the difference would be as dramatic with a mild 200. But it really highlighted the differences in driving characteristics.
AWD is absolutely the way to go in slick conditions, and the 200 is even better with a limited slip center diff. Torsen, if I remember correctly.
I removed the center diff on my 80 and installed a part-time kit. This was to accomplish truly being able to disable the front driveline in case of trouble, as well as avoid on-road vibrations due to my less-than-ideal driveline angles. There was a HUGE difference in how that thing felt in 2WD vs AWD.. before the work the front would pull itself around. After? It felt less connected to the road.. and MUCH MUCH more likely to spin up an inside rear on tight turns in the wet. Granted this thing was lifted 2" with a ton of suspension travel and on 35s.. I don't think the difference would be as dramatic with a mild 200. But it really highlighted the differences in driving characteristics.
AWD is absolutely the way to go in slick conditions, and the 200 is even better with a limited slip center diff. Torsen, if I remember correctly.
Yes, the 200 Center diff is a Torsen.
bloc
SILVER Star
I was searching online to confirm the center diff was torsen and stumbled on a paper by toyota explaining exactly what we are discussing, though it is pretty technical. How having AWD and especially with a slight rear bias, can help prevent traction issues in the first place. Plus, yes, it is a torsen center diff.
It also explains why they went with a Torsen-C instead of a clutch system with electronic control as any sensing and control delay in that system makes things much worse... and I guess even if you set it to 0ms delay the torsen still does better. Only the best for the landcruiser..
Pretty interesting read, IMO.
It also explains why they went with a Torsen-C instead of a clutch system with electronic control as any sensing and control delay in that system makes things much worse... and I guess even if you set it to 0ms delay the torsen still does better. Only the best for the landcruiser..
Pretty interesting read, IMO.
^^ Great find, thanks for posting.
How many credits towards my Mechanical Engineering degree do I get for reading that? 
would love something other than an open centre diff for my 100, 200 series transfer cases are just a bit too different 
I have torsen front and rear diffs, ATRAC only kicks in now when there is a front to rear speed difference and I can lock the CDL for that but that requires pressing a button
I have torsen front and rear diffs, ATRAC only kicks in now when there is a front to rear speed difference and I can lock the CDL for that but that requires pressing a button
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bloc
SILVER Star
I just noticed in Table 1 VF4 series applications that US doesn't have Landcruiser anywhere. Then checked my notes and saw that we supposedly have a JF2A case. Then dug up pictures of both. Turns out this paper isn't really about OUR landcruiser transfer cases, though I'd assume the AWD and torsen principles apply.
Maybe the VF4 came in the v6 applications?
Show me a 2010 Sequoia that stands this tall:
Markuson
SILVER Star
deleted. wrong thread
Easier said than done when living in freezing winter climates.
With global warming hopefully you’ll be all set soon enough.
We have a 2018 Land Cruiser and one of our friends who we've known for quite a while has a 2nd generation Sequoia.
Their Sequoia still runs strong at 150k with nothing but basic maintenance and I don't doubt for a minute that its longevity could be comparable to the LC, at least if used lightly, since most of the drivetrain is similar.
Build quality is dramatically different. The LC has tighter panel gaps, better paint quality, and much higher quality interior materials. It's basically built to a Lexus standard without the badge. It rides more like a German luxury car where hitting any road imperfection results in a muted thud. You can still tell it's a heavy truck due to body motion stopping or during turns, but otherwise it has a very smooth, isolated driving experience. I remember watching a YouTube video of a pre-refresh LC200 thinking it was a low mileage example based on the interior quality and lack of noise, and at the end of the video the guy showed it had over 200k on the clock.
The Sequoia is basically an enclosed pickup trick and it rides like one, with more shudders and rattles transmitted into the cabin, even when newer. Its 3rd row is roomier and with more usable luggage space behind it, so it might be better than the LC as a family hauler.
If you visit the dealer, just sit in both, shut the doors, or take them for a short drive, and the differences should be immediately apparent.
