Diesel Gurus, please help me diagnose my truck.

[gbentink]

LOL I'll be the next one, I'm searching for the app right now - thanks Dougal

Now the pressure is on......

My 100TD is significaly quicker than a 200 series..... but I must say, changing from 31" to 33.4" tyres has taken the edge off.....

 

[gbentink]

Just to make sure we are comparing apples to apples, the 4D3 Fuso engine is 145 hp stock... not 165. Neither of us have done any mods that increase the fuel, so I'd fully expect to be at 18-20 seconds. All we have done is increase the boost a bit.

OK that makes alot more sense - upping the boost without fuel has probably dropped power a bit - EGT's say its a bit lean at full tilt.

Plus I was lazy and didnt read the entire thread....

 

[Dougal]

LOL I'll be the next one, I'm searching for the app right now - thanks Dougal

Now the pressure is on......

My 100TD is significaly quicker than a 200 series..... but I must say, changing from 31" to 33.4" tyres has taken the edge off.....

Time for a dedicated thread methinks. https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...diesel-cell-phone-dyno-plots.html#post7084617


If all goes well I'll have a freshly turbocharged work car to add to it shortly. Drilled the oil ports into the block and ordered the manifold and heat-shields this week.

 

[SuperHatch]

Then it's different than mine?!?!

On mine there is no external adjustment for fuel. There is the manual shutoff arm screw stop, but that's not for fuel, that's shutoff, and it looks like the adjustment on the 4BD but it is different.

Based on my exploratory, the only thing that could adjust max fuel is the rack position sensor. I am pretty sure it works, too, I unscrewed it half a turn and got what I think is a noticeable increase, but I was too chicken to try it at WOT for more than a second. There has to be an adjustment for full fuel rate on these things...

I have the pyro half wired in...

No, that's exactly the screw I was referring to. My emergency stop lever has two set screws, one to adjust the closed position, and one to adjust the open position. The one to adjust the open position is in the same location as the max fuel screw in the fulle mechanical pumps and the lever is also in the same location. I figured it served the same purpose, I guess I figured wrong.

I'm glad that you're experimenting with the rack position sensor. I'm done messing with anything until I get the injectors serviced. Im pulling them this weekend, there is a semi-local shop that has a 1-2 day turnaround on those injectors. I'll drop them off monday and hopefully have them back by next weekend. The unstable idle and "miss" at very light throttle levels leads me to believe the injectors need to at least be looked at, especially since changing the timing had no effect on either symptom.

I would expect you should do around 14-17 seconds to 100 with 165hp in an 80.... and since you have a few mods, should be closer to the former.

Guys these are slow times, sorry.... I guess I am getting a bit used of these tuned 1HDT/FT and FTE.

My 100 series with 1HDFTE 5sdp auto with valve body upgrade, one of my turbos, intercooler, 3" exhaust and chip at max setting does about 9-9.5sec to 100. It did closer to 12.5 before the turbo and exhasut and chip (but with intercooler). I will do a vid of it soon now that my day job just went to a 9 day fornight

A friends 80 series 1HDFT with one of my turbos and an eBay cheap intercooler (on 35" tyres and std diffs) with A442F with wholesale auto valve body is quicker still than mine when on a stall up - maybe in high 8's.... I will be loading up some vids on youtube soon. It is seriously quick off the line. I

A 12HT juiced up, auto, no intercooler, stock exhaust, one of my turbos and 18psi took about 12.5 seconds to 100. This one is on youtube.

These are all autos though. I am yet to test a manual with the same mods, though there is one around here that is tuned up and I am fairly sure it is better than 10 sec to 100 (its a 1HDT 80 series 5spd manual).

Just to make sure we are comparing apples to apples, the 4D3 Fuso engine is 145 hp stock... not 165. Neither of us have done any mods that increase the fuel, so I'd fully expect to be at 18-20 seconds. All we have done is increase the boost a bit.

Actually, the 99 Fuso FE's were only rated at 135HP, in 2000 they jumped to 145. So my truck is rated even lower than yours JL... I really need to get more fuel into this thing.

OK that makes alot more sense - upping the boost without fuel has probably dropped power a bit - EGT's say its a bit lean at full tilt.

Plus I was lazy and didnt read the entire thread....

Interesting...

 

[Fromage]

I forgot about your misfire. Definitely an issue. You could have a siezed injector from sitting, or a bad pattern or something. Mine has never stumbled or misfired and my injectors were very bad.

 

[SuperHatch]

No, that's exactly the screw I was referring to. My emergency stop lever has two set screws, one to adjust the closed position, and one to adjust the open position. The one to adjust the open position is in the same location as the max fuel screw in the fully mechanical pumps and the lever is also in the same location. I figured it served the same purpose, I guess I figured wrong.

I'm glad that you're experimenting with the rack position sensor. I'm done messing with anything until I get the injectors serviced. Im pulling them this weekend, there is a semi-local shop that has a 1-2 day turnaround on those injectors. I'll drop them off monday and hopefully have them back by next weekend. The unstable idle and "miss" at very light throttle levels leads me to believe the injectors need to at least be looked at, especially since changing the timing had no effect on either symptom.

Look at the attached images to better understand what I'm saying. In the third attachment, #5 (The electronic governor) moves up and actuates arm #6, which rotates and slides the control rod "A".

The other end of the rod hits the secondary rack position sensor as you already pointed out. However, the stop arm #7 is connected to the same shaft #6 is on. I am thinking that the second stopper on the stop arm limits how far #6 can rotate. I think #6 rotates freely on the rod, but has stops in certain positions, so when you pull the emergency stop and the #7 stop arm rotates clockwise, it forces #6 to fully close. However, the same stop would prevent #6 from rotating any further than that stop screw would allow.

I'm doing my best to describe with words what is so clear in my mind... am I speaking jibberish?

 

[Fromage]

I checked and you're right, there are two screws, but I think that there is a one way linkage between the stop arm and the internal linkage (the stop arm will pull the rack, but the rack does not move the stop arm). I will check my parts pump tonight. Good thinking though!

 

[SuperHatch]

I checked and you're right, there are two screws, but I think that there is a one way linkage between the stop arm and the internal linkage (the stop arm will pull the rack, but the rack does not move the stop arm). I will check my parts pump tonight. Good thinking though!

What I'm trying to get at is... if the stop arm has a detent in it that allows it to grab onto the #6 arm and pull it to the closed position, then when the stop arm is at the wide open position, the #6 arm can run into the same detent as it opens up all the way.

I don't think adjusting the screw gives more fuel, but I think it gives more room for the arm to rotate once we figure out how to make it do that! Your trick on the secondary rack position sensor may just be the key. I want to pull the sensor completely to see if it is really a sensor, or just a "stop switch" telling the governor motor to stop moving the rack when it hits the end. Moving it out will "convince" the governor to try to move the rack further, but it may only be able to go as far as the stop screw allows it. It may require adjustment of both to get the full adjustment.

Clear as mud?

 

[Fromage]

Damn straight! We'll be blowin mushroom clouds in no time

 

[SuperHatch]

Myth busted... turned the sub rack position sensor out two full turns, no difference, no check engine light, nothing.

Le Sigh...