- Thread starter
- #21
Will do...
The EGTs at stock boost were nearly 1200 degrees in 3rd gear at WOT.
They're now down to 1050-1100.
Diesel Gurus, please help me diagnose my truck. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SuperHatch
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Will do...
The EGTs at stock boost were nearly 1200 degrees in 3rd gear at WOT.
They're now down to 1050-1100.
crushers
post ho
post or pre turbo?
- Thread starter
- #23
Pre turbo, measure right at the turbo inlet.
crushers
post ho
pre turbo is safe up to 1400F
you are well within any issues.
i would suggest turning up the fuel till you max at 1400F on a steep hill (or if no hills hook onto a heavy trailer)
then see how the performance is...
you are well within any issues.
i would suggest turning up the fuel till you max at 1400F on a steep hill (or if no hills hook onto a heavy trailer)
then see how the performance is...
- Thread starter
- #25
Planning on it, as soon as I figure out how to turn up the fuel... haha
AFTER watching a 3 ton Mitsu going down the road yesterday with the noisy automatic . I would say that you are in the ballpark.
Rolling 50 to 65 is really slow
Rolling 50 to 65 is really slow
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Mine, with the same engine, moves out pretty good at that speed. I will time it but I find it to be OK, not lightning fast but normal for that size of truck with that HP.
The fusos have 5.7 gears so they are always in 4th gear on the highway and nearing redline at 65 mph, but the Cruiser can go to 65 in 3rd, then shift into 4th so there is more gear. The big problem right now is that I am losing all kinds of boost above 15 PSI due to the pop off valve. Did you plug that thing yet?
- Thread starter
- #28
Well, mine might be hurting at that speed because of a low fluid condition in the trans as talked about in the other thread. I am going to add some fluid tonight.
Yes, I installed my plug yesterday, big props to Mcmaster-carr for getting it to me in one day. (I didn't ask for one day, they're just local) I then turned up the boost from 15psi to 19, and honestly there is no difference in power, just dropped EGTs. As crushers stated, it's time to add fuel. I'm going to try to change resistors this weekend, I plan on adding a high-wattage potentiometer in place of the fuel rate adjustment resistor. I'll be sure to report back!
Ho no... i'm gonna have to go test this out! 14 seconds? mmmm.....
Dynolicious...13$??? really ? worth it?
I justed installed one called Pocketdyno, free, will see how it is.
Dynolicious...13$??? really ? worth it?
I justed installed one called Pocketdyno, free, will see how it is.
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We should start a thread for phone dyno results.
I don't own dynolicious, I just borrowed an ipod with it to check. I was also using adyno on an android and a few others. They mostly agreed but on some runs one of them would get a false trigger and show 3 seconds faster or slower.
Dynolicious gives the prettiest results, adyno gives a plot you can scroll across but not save as a whole image. Maybe it's improved since then.
It was many years ago when I timed the 100 series cruiser, it was quite new and I was using a stop-watch. Maybe they loosen up with age?
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I am really looking forward to you messing with the resistor! I still don't have a Pyro hooked up, so I won't be changing anything until that is done.
If you decide to advance the timing, there are two adjustment methods. One is by pulling the front timing cover and the bolt holes that hold the sprocket to the injection pump are slotted for adjustment. There is a lot of range there. The other option is by rotating the entire pump, but this is kind of a pain in the arse due to difficult access and having to remove the fuel pump etc. I think it is probably about as quick pulling the timing cover. One means coolant, one means fuel.
I had bumped mine nearly 1/8" at the timing mark on the pump to adapter housing point. I did this because the prestroke actuator was not working correctly, and it definitely made it run very different, but I was still working out a lot of other variables so I moved it back to original. I may move it forward again if the injectors don't net me more power/less smoke/easier starting/better mpg.
There is also an adjustment for the prestroke actuator. It can rotate on the front of the pump to set the prestroke position. Mine is slightly off from the mark on the pump, so I may reset it, but I am waiting to have 100% OK injectors before I start messing with it. According to the shop where I had them cleaned up and reshimmed, the tips were OK, the spray pattern was off on two, and the pop pressure was down around 1.8 instead of 2.6 MPa. I should have them back in tonight.
Mine smokes a lot off idle, and when accelerating it's a bit smoky, but top end it is really clean. If you are getting 1000F max, that means there is likely a lot more room for more fuel.
If you decide to advance the timing, there are two adjustment methods. One is by pulling the front timing cover and the bolt holes that hold the sprocket to the injection pump are slotted for adjustment. There is a lot of range there. The other option is by rotating the entire pump, but this is kind of a pain in the arse due to difficult access and having to remove the fuel pump etc. I think it is probably about as quick pulling the timing cover. One means coolant, one means fuel.
I had bumped mine nearly 1/8" at the timing mark on the pump to adapter housing point. I did this because the prestroke actuator was not working correctly, and it definitely made it run very different, but I was still working out a lot of other variables so I moved it back to original. I may move it forward again if the injectors don't net me more power/less smoke/easier starting/better mpg.
There is also an adjustment for the prestroke actuator. It can rotate on the front of the pump to set the prestroke position. Mine is slightly off from the mark on the pump, so I may reset it, but I am waiting to have 100% OK injectors before I start messing with it. According to the shop where I had them cleaned up and reshimmed, the tips were OK, the spray pattern was off on two, and the pop pressure was down around 1.8 instead of 2.6 MPa. I should have them back in tonight.
Mine smokes a lot off idle, and when accelerating it's a bit smoky, but top end it is really clean. If you are getting 1000F max, that means there is likely a lot more room for more fuel.
- Thread starter
- #32
Messed with the resistor.
I've got good news and bad news.
Good news first - I didn't blow the truck up.
Bad news - Changing the resistor did nothing... at least nothing that I could tell. Tried every resistance on the table except for the very highest, since it was a 0-10k potentiometer.
Minimal changes to EGT. I think the higher resistance is a little bit more fuel, but nothing to write home about.
I did not adjust the timing, but I did check it. It's either way off, or a little off, depending on how you interpret the manual, but either way it is not right. Will try to adjust tomorrow...
- Thread starter
- #33
Adjusted the timing today. I was able to make a tool that gave me access to the injection pump mounting bolts without removing the feed pump, so I was able to adjust the timing in about 2 hours. I retarded it by 3-4 degrees as best I can tell. The engine is much quieter and smoother now, with no discernable drop in power. EGTs didn't even change much, but the turbo is much more responsive as to be expected. The truck is so smooth and quiet at cruise now I can almost forget there's a diesel in there. No black smoke either, which is a plus.
Just to compare, I did some tests, my 50-65 time is about 8 seconds, 0-60 is under 20. This is with the newly rebuilt injectors and I bumped the timing ahead (top of pump towards the cyl head). I tried different settings today and 1/8 ahead at the timing mark a bunch of different made the biggest difference. I might try and advance it even more tomorrow. I also cranked the prestroke actuator to the max of the adjustment (upwards).
I have an idea for full fuel adjustment. I have a spare pump that I did an exploratory on today. On the front of the pump there is a sensor that sticks out forward, just under the prestroke actuator. It is a stainless cylinder facing forward, with a wire sticking out of it. This is the sub rack position sensor. It sends info on the rack position to the computer. Therefore, if this was adjusted out, it would allow the rack to slide over further, therefore increasing the amount of fuel it can put out. The sub sensor is adjustable, so you can move it outwards small amounts to set it. There is also a main rack position sensor, but it's not adjustable and I am not sure exactly how both sensors interact, but I figure moving one out might result in a CEL when the computer doesn't know what is going on, or it might end up meaning we get a higher full fuel volume, which is what this thing needs to make it scream. I would try it but I still don't have a pyro hooked up. I might get to that tomorrow. I took some pics of the pump disassembly, will get them posted tomorrow (I lost my camera cable).
I have to say that with the new injectors and the timing set at 1/8, it really moves out. It took me a while to get it dialed in, I'd recommend getting your injectors looked at though, it made a big difference on mine...
I have an idea for full fuel adjustment. I have a spare pump that I did an exploratory on today. On the front of the pump there is a sensor that sticks out forward, just under the prestroke actuator. It is a stainless cylinder facing forward, with a wire sticking out of it. This is the sub rack position sensor. It sends info on the rack position to the computer. Therefore, if this was adjusted out, it would allow the rack to slide over further, therefore increasing the amount of fuel it can put out. The sub sensor is adjustable, so you can move it outwards small amounts to set it. There is also a main rack position sensor, but it's not adjustable and I am not sure exactly how both sensors interact, but I figure moving one out might result in a CEL when the computer doesn't know what is going on, or it might end up meaning we get a higher full fuel volume, which is what this thing needs to make it scream. I would try it but I still don't have a pyro hooked up. I might get to that tomorrow. I took some pics of the pump disassembly, will get them posted tomorrow (I lost my camera cable).
I have to say that with the new injectors and the timing set at 1/8, it really moves out. It took me a while to get it dialed in, I'd recommend getting your injectors looked at though, it made a big difference on mine...
- Thread starter
- #35
I called a few local diesel shops and they gave me the same advice you have, look at the injectors.
This pump has a max fuel screw, just like the 4BD pumps... of course adjusting it did nothing, but it is there.
This pump has a max fuel screw, just like the 4BD pumps... of course adjusting it did nothing, but it is there.
Then it's different than mine?!?!
On mine there is no external adjustment for fuel. There is the manual shutoff arm screw stop, but that's not for fuel, that's shutoff, and it looks like the adjustment on the 4BD but it is different.
Based on my exploratory, the only thing that could adjust max fuel is the rack position sensor. I am pretty sure it works, too, I unscrewed it half a turn and got what I think is a noticeable increase, but I was too chicken to try it at WOT for more than a second. There has to be an adjustment for full fuel rate on these things...
I have the pyro half wired in...
On mine there is no external adjustment for fuel. There is the manual shutoff arm screw stop, but that's not for fuel, that's shutoff, and it looks like the adjustment on the 4BD but it is different.
Based on my exploratory, the only thing that could adjust max fuel is the rack position sensor. I am pretty sure it works, too, I unscrewed it half a turn and got what I think is a noticeable increase, but I was too chicken to try it at WOT for more than a second. There has to be an adjustment for full fuel rate on these things...
I have the pyro half wired in...
I would expect you should do around 14-17 seconds to 100 with 165hp in an 80.... and since you have a few mods, should be closer to the former.
Guys these are slow times, sorry.... I guess I am getting a bit used of these tuned 1HDT/FT and FTE.
My 100 series with 1HDFTE 5sdp auto with valve body upgrade, one of my turbos, intercooler, 3" exhaust and chip at max setting does about 9-9.5sec to 100. It did closer to 12.5 before the turbo and exhasut and chip (but with intercooler). I will do a vid of it soon now that my day job just went to a 9 day fornight
A friends 80 series 1HDFT with one of my turbos and an eBay cheap intercooler (on 35" tyres and std diffs) with A442F with wholesale auto valve body is quicker still than mine when on a stall up - maybe in high 8's.... I will be loading up some vids on youtube soon. It is seriously quick off the line. I
A 12HT juiced up, auto, no intercooler, stock exhaust, one of my turbos and 18psi took about 12.5 seconds to 100. This one is on youtube.
These are all autos though. I am yet to test a manual with the same mods, though there is one around here that is tuned up and I am fairly sure it is better than 10 sec to 100 (its a 1HDT 80 series 5spd manual).
Guys these are slow times, sorry.... I guess I am getting a bit used of these tuned 1HDT/FT and FTE.
My 100 series with 1HDFTE 5sdp auto with valve body upgrade, one of my turbos, intercooler, 3" exhaust and chip at max setting does about 9-9.5sec to 100. It did closer to 12.5 before the turbo and exhasut and chip (but with intercooler). I will do a vid of it soon now that my day job just went to a 9 day fornight
A friends 80 series 1HDFT with one of my turbos and an eBay cheap intercooler (on 35" tyres and std diffs) with A442F with wholesale auto valve body is quicker still than mine when on a stall up - maybe in high 8's.... I will be loading up some vids on youtube soon. It is seriously quick off the line. I
A 12HT juiced up, auto, no intercooler, stock exhaust, one of my turbos and 18psi took about 12.5 seconds to 100. This one is on youtube.
These are all autos though. I am yet to test a manual with the same mods, though there is one around here that is tuned up and I am fairly sure it is better than 10 sec to 100 (its a 1HDT 80 series 5spd manual).
Just to make sure we are comparing apples to apples, the 4D3 Fuso engine is 145 hp stock... not 165. Neither of us have done any mods that increase the fuel, so I'd fully expect to be at 18-20 seconds. All we have done is increase the boost a bit.
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Nice one. That's pretty much what I got with the HDJ100 here and a stopwatch.
It shows the advantage of an auto quite well, no dropoff in acceleration between gear-changes. I have a wide ratio gearbox and run 2/3/4th on a 0-100km/h sprint. Better gear ratios would take whole seconds off, but I don't own this vehicle for the 0-100 time.
Who's next?
