Diesel Cell Phone Dyno Plots.

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Self explanatory. Post up your dyno plots from your diesel vehicles on cell-phone dyno apps.

There are a few to chose from.
Dynolicious (iphone/ipod)
aDyno (android)
Dynomaster (android)

Post up any others you've tried.

I'll start.
Isuzu 4BD1T in a classic rangerover.
Isuzu 5 speed gearbox.
29" tyres.
This one done in 2/3/4th gears.
HP not calibrated as I didn't enter the weight (2300kg empty).
2010.12.26 8.20pm.webp
 
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Here is mine

7b4979ea.jpg


I entered 30% loss and at 6400lbs.

35s with 456 gears.

Any idea how accurate these are. Likely good for comparison more than anything. I hope someone does a stock hj 60 to compare


Tyler
 
Here is mine

7b4979ea.jpg


I entered 30% loss and at 6400lbs.

35s with 456 gears.

Any idea how accurate these are. Likely good for comparison more than anything. I hope someone does a stock hj 60 to compare


Tyler

Damn that's impressive! My brothers Turbo 2H (auto) feels like its in the 20's. How much boost are you running and what turbo?
 
I'm running nearly 20 psi. More like 18 tops. That's also measured at compressor outlet and not after intercooler. Turbo is a Garret model with .6 exhaust and .48 compressor if I remember. 3 inch straight pipe.


I would like to run more boost and will once I try turning fuel up. Also thinking about timing advance.
 
I'm in 20 @ 60MPH at 14 PSI ( measured post IC at TB ) non methanol .. ( 40" MTRs / Marks t-case reduction and 4.56 R&P )
 
1HD-FTE

OK, so here a quick run last night. Honestly, its not feeling quite right at the moment after removing the air temp sensor and electronic throttle, but still good. 6490lbs which should be spot on and zero correction for power - so at wheels, though I will take it over weigh bridge when I get home from work early enough. The dip in acceleration curev (or G, blue line) is wheelspin....Honestly a little dissapointed - I guess 8 seconds to 90km/h is pretty good.... promise sub 10 seconds next week after a few improvements and a manifold leak corrected.

I would suggest you all do without power correction - its definately inaccurate to simply apply 30%. What counts is at wheels. I have run back to back dyno tests and on non inertia dynos (such as dyno dynamics), tyre size makes no significant difference (EDIT: .....to power; obviously in gear acceleartion is affected and it certainly small wheels aid in a drag race)

The other thing is get a good handle on what the weight of your vehicle is - for example a HJ61 is likely under 5500lbs with driver excluding mods. If you put a higher weight (actually, vehicle mass), that will inflate your power figures. For mine, I know the Diesel weighs 169kg more than the Petrol V8, so I added 169kg to the std LX470 model weight of 2535kg, added 60kg for Roof Rack and rear wheel carrier, 90kg for fuel and 95kg for me to total 2949 kg = 6488 lbs. I will run over weigh bridge to check what it *really* is.

I can also say wow, what a huge difference tyre size makes to 0-100 times - my car on worn out std 31" tyres was definately seat in the pants quicker than now on 33.4" tyres. I still have the old tyres, so might run a back to back for fun once my car is properly setup over the next week or so.

As far as gear changes are concerned, my FTE at least is set to reduce power on shifts, so you can see dips rather than peaks on the changes - still a quick change though

The peak at ~ 13 seconds is the TC lockup in 4th.

Peak kW, 147 at wheels

Peak G - 0.82
IMG_0965.webp
IMG_0964.webp
 
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Everybody using dynolicious, make sure you calibrate it and set the tricker to .06g and 12" and everybody should use same drive train loss.
 
Everybody using dynolicious, make sure you calibrate it and set the tricker to .06g and 12" and everybody should use same drive train loss.

Im with you and gbentik on this one, most accurate results can be archieved without factoring drive train losses (shouldnt we get RWHP that way?)
 
Ya that all sounds good. I'll reset my setting and try it again tonight. I'm really more interested in the times than anything. I bet this is best used for comparison against yourself rather than truck to truck. But as we nail down variables we can get closer to comparison. Either way.... Way cool app
 
Im with you and gbentik on this one, most accurate results can be archieved without factoring drive train losses (shouldnt we get RWHP that way?)

Or just not use the HP function and compare times and shapes of the acceleration curves instead.

And no cheating. Tilting the phone upwards gives you serious improvements.:D
 
Or just not use the HP function and compare times and shapes of the acceleration curves instead.

And no cheating. Tilting the phone upwards gives you serious improvements.:D

Exactly...

On my tests, the iPhone was resting flat on my centre consol and held there by my hand. I did 10 runs, they were all about the same depending on amount of wheelspin on launch.

I also checked the G of the iPhone when resting in the position it took the measurements and it was 0.00G.

After I make a few changes I hope to get it back to performance it had before I changed the inlet manifold crossover.

My car was dynoed at 132kW at wheels before the mods. Dynolicious says 147kW. Thats a bit low compared to what it was as its not "feeling" quite right at the moment though may be fairly accurate (especially considering that 147KW was without lockup on converter and the Dyno 132kW was in 4th lockup)

If you make sure you get the measuring position correct, it is quite accurate. I used an old GTech a while back (still have it)and when setup correctly it was so close to what we measured at dyno, no point going to dyno.
 
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