Did I just blow my engine?

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238K for me, I noticed small drops in the overflow tank and having done all the hoses knew I had a problem. Caught early as the truck was running great, well worth it to have that in the rear view mirror.
 
^^^This^^^

What the dealers in your area have told you is not correct, they can order the short block, key is first using the correct part number IME.

Part of the problem may be that you're in Florida which means all the Toyota dealers are part of SET (Southeast Toyota) which uses it's own parts ordering system. Those dealers (in SET) are technically not part of Toyota North America and don't use the same system as Toyota USA for ordering or tracking parts (the parts gurus could explain it better)


That’s interesting to hear.
 
@Damcowboy if you end up needing a long block i have a freshly rebuilt one sitting in the shop. Pm me if interested. And everyone is right you can definitely get a new short block from Toyota you will just have to transfer over all your old alignment pins and dowels and everything else easily done on a engine stand with the FSM.
I’ll PM you, sounds like an option I need to explore.
 
Sadly I see this scenario playing out continually. The Legendary 80 series is bulletproof up until about 220,000 260,000 miles then it blows the Head Gasket (anyone who says otherwise is BS or extremely lucky. One could argue that replacing the HG isn’t a major repair, you can slap a new Head gasket in and be back on the road. Unfortunately there isn’t a lot of engine options for the 80 and having to pay labor on repairs will cripple most common folks, Unfortunately you can’t go down to the local junk yard get a used engine to swap in like you can a Ford.

I didn’t get to see how many miles were on your 80 when it died on you.
138k
 
Yes, exactly my reaction …
Unfortunately this can happen to anyone, and on any vehicle really. I stopped using Wix filters in all my vehicles after reading multiple reports here of oil starvation linked to their filters and actual payouts from the manufacturer showing that the loss was definitely attributed to their poor design or manufacturing process. Not everyone knows though and it's obviously a problem Wix isn't fixing so there will be more. Who knows what other filters and applications are affected. I've found the Toyota OEM consumables to be inexpensive as well as high quality, of course that's of no consolation at this point for you.

Whatever you end up doing, insist on OEM parts for all the major stuff, whether you rebuild yourself or buy something ready to go.

When I did my rebuild the machine shop I was working with convinced me that their parts were the same as OEM, same factory they claimed. I ordered pistons and a variety of other parts from them. When I got them home, they were certainly NOT the same and the quality difference, fit and finish, surface quality of the machining, etc.. was no where close to OEM so I returned them all and paid a bit more for the original stuff. Unless you are going high end custom forged pistons or something you can't beat what Mr. T has sourced for their application.
 
More than Likely I think I will install a short or long block (current plan) built by someone else. I'll do the pulling and re-installing. @Azca earlier in this thread posted a link to his doing this work, thanks for that. To save me some time (a little lazy I know, sorry, so much to do right now) do you guys recommend any other links on the forum for pulling an engine (I dont plan to pull the tranny)? And maybe a thread with a list of parts to switch out whether right now they need it or not.. Is there any vendor out there that builds plug and play engine harnesses for a 97 LC?

Thanks.
 
Time spent removing parts on and around the engine to make it easier to yank the engine is time well spent. Better than struggling to get the engine clear and having to remove stuff half way through.
Things like battery box
Radiator + shroud
Hood
- AC compressor can be unbolted and tied out of the way so you don't open the system and lose gas etc.
-Tie the exhaust manifold out of the way. I roped mine to the top of the shock absorber. Unbolt the first couple of exhaust hangers to give it some movement.

- Plan on Cleaning grease and grime off everything.
plan to replace all rubber hoses, PCV grommet, brake vaccum hose and check valve
- Check and replace as many electrical connectors on the engine harness as you can justify.
Partsouq, Ballenger Motorsport, Corsa Technica are good sources. Ballenger do kits with just connector, or connector plus terminal, or connector plus pigtails
- Test and replace as may sensors on the engine as you can justify.
Some are expensive. Now is the time to weigh up whether to change them and forget about them for the next 10, 15, 20 years, or test and keep them in service knowing that diagnosing a fault, and changing them later will be more difficult.
Some OEM sensors are already NLA.
- Same with vacuum servos.
- Replace plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor button

To separate engine and tranny, you may need to unbolt trans crossmember and lower it to get to top bellhousing bolts, then jack the trans back up, and re-bolt the cross member in position.

Shop around for parts. Partsouq. Japan4x4 etc
 
Its out. I hope i can remember how to put it back together.
IMG_0317.jpeg
 
Its out. I hope i can remember how to put it back together.
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Use a good camera and as you take parts off, bag and label them. Take a photo of the bag and where the parts came off; point if you have to. Also, place the parts in boxes dedicated to the area the parts were removed. It may seem like you are going overboard but, it will save you time, money, and grief. Also watch for your bolts on the assemblies. Some will be longer than others. Use a piece of cardboard with the shape of the part that is being removed on it. Stick the bolts in the order/place they came from. The oil pans are a great example of this. Trans too.
 
I'll 2nd that.
I use a bunch of zip lock bags in a range of sizes. Bag bolts, nuts, small parts
Use making tape and sharpie to label every bag.
Have some boxes or totes to lay ziplocks in in the order you remove stuff. When it comes time for reassembly, you'll want them mostly in reverse order.

I've never gone as far as cardboard cut outs, but pictures are priceless. You can never take too many.
 
Label maker. Good camera work, take your time. It’s not rocket surgery but it will be if you don’t make notes and take pictures.
 
I suspect i have already NOT taken enough pictures

Easy mistake.

Things make sense as you pull them apart. In 3, 4, 6 months time, what was obvious to pull apart can be confusing to put back together.

Pics of things as they sit now can still be useful later.

What did people do without a portable super computer, and high res camera in our pockets all the time?! :hmm: :lol:

Greasy hands does make it hard though.

Sometimes, I'll edit pics and add sketched notes for later.
 
I always use the bag and label method and I still have bolts that make say WTF!!!???. You could also try taping the bolt/nut to the place it came from. Boxing in “areas” from where items have come from would be helpful as well.
 

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