My two cents.... Take a minute and write out on a whiteboard the areas/components others have mentioned to check. Once it has been checked, write down some notes on what you found and cross it off the list. Once you have completed the list, review your notes and reach out for further clarification on your findings if needed. It is easy to get side tracked when hunting an issue or trying to figure out WTF just happened, so the whiteboard list and corresponding notes may help keep you on track and prevent inadvertently skipping over something. Truly hope you are able to find a simple/inexpensive reason why this occurred. I read your whole thread and the other WIX nightmare thread...the WIX that was on my 1991 is now in the trash, replaced with an OEM filter. Likely it was good to go but for less than $4, it was a no brainer to swap it out.
Did I just blow my engine?
- Thread starter Damcowboy
- Start date
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I am sorry to hear about your rig, I had a similar oil starvation then knock on my last rig. I will always only run the Toyo filters. Especially when Walmart carries Toyo D3 filters.
Any updates?
Did you hear a Hawk Tuah
- Thread starter
- #45
Latest update.
I have an appointment with Cruiser Matt on July 8 to see what I am dealing with.
In the meantime, yesterday I got the chance to follow some of the suggestions noted previously. Probably the best news is I can rotate the cam using a 30mm socket and breaker bar on the cam shaft nut, fairly easily, so the engine is not siezed. I replaced the oil pressure sensor, but as I havent started the engine I dont know if that makes any difference yet. I’m in the middle of replacing all the fan belts (the dual belts are seriously messed up, the AC belt was fine) but the alternator is not moving after I loosen the 3 necessary bolts so the belt replacement isnt done yet. Also I still need to grab an oil sample to send it off for analysis.
I think the whole lawyer idea is a dead end, nobody cares about a potential 8-10k repair cost, whoch plays right into WIX’s hands. Maybe a small claims court process at best, I dont know.
I have an appointment with Cruiser Matt on July 8 to see what I am dealing with.
In the meantime, yesterday I got the chance to follow some of the suggestions noted previously. Probably the best news is I can rotate the cam using a 30mm socket and breaker bar on the cam shaft nut, fairly easily, so the engine is not siezed. I replaced the oil pressure sensor, but as I havent started the engine I dont know if that makes any difference yet. I’m in the middle of replacing all the fan belts (the dual belts are seriously messed up, the AC belt was fine) but the alternator is not moving after I loosen the 3 necessary bolts so the belt replacement isnt done yet. Also I still need to grab an oil sample to send it off for analysis.
I think the whole lawyer idea is a dead end, nobody cares about a potential 8-10k repair cost, whoch plays right into WIX’s hands. Maybe a small claims court process at best, I dont know.
- Thread starter
- #46
I’m wondering if part of my problem is insufficient vacuum? I have another thread here where I document engine surge when I start my LC. Eventually it goes away. I find if I turn on the key for 30 seconds or so, then turn it over most of the surging goes away. I checked for vac leaks with a smoke generator but couldnt find any. Also maybe my cruise control malfunction was a vacuum issue? Finally I have had brake issues and just replaced my brake booster and master cylinder literally the day before my “adventure” began. I have some vacuum for sure, but maybe not enough?
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
What’s vacuum have to do with oil pressure? Why not start it reel quick like 15 seconds max and see if the gauge builds pressure? Why take it to a shop when you have the forum to help out? The last thing I would be worried about is vacuum if I didn’t have a motor with oil pressure.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
If you've loosened mounting bolts, you may need a pry bar to get the alternator to move. Just be careful what you lever against.
The FSM will have a testing procedure for the oil pressure sender.
Should be a simple test.
I would test both old and new. It could be helpful diagnosing the problem knowing if the old one works.
After you've tested the oil pressure sender, and changed the oil filter, and checked for berserk in the oil, if you're going to turn it over, I'd suggest pulling the EFI fuse so it doesn't start.
Turn it over 30-60 seconds and see if the oil pressure gauge comes up to normal.
If the pressure comes up, and the old oil looks clean ( no metal) then start it.
The FSM will have a testing procedure for the oil pressure sender.
Should be a simple test.
I would test both old and new. It could be helpful diagnosing the problem knowing if the old one works.
After you've tested the oil pressure sender, and changed the oil filter, and checked for berserk in the oil, if you're going to turn it over, I'd suggest pulling the EFI fuse so it doesn't start.
Turn it over 30-60 seconds and see if the oil pressure gauge comes up to normal.
If the pressure comes up, and the old oil looks clean ( no metal) then start it.
Spit on that thaangDid you hear a Hawk Tuah
- Thread starter
- #50
It doesnt have anything to do with it. But it does have something to do with the cruise control. I’m trying to figure out why I couldn’t stay at 70 mph. How does all the symptoms fit together? I dont know the answers yet.
I’m not going to try to turn it over until I know as best as possible I wont do any more damage. $10k is a pretty big motivator not to rush.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I see, well keep us updated.
- Thread starter
- #52
Another update.
When some of you guys were saying the idler pulley didnt matter, i didnt understand that comment because this is how the belts were run on my machine
You can see the belts run on the inside of the idler pulley. This of course is wrong, the belts should run on the outside of the pulley, barely touching it. I have no idea how the previous owner got the belts to do this, it must have been a real pain. This is probably why the belts were messed up. It turns out the bearings in the pulley weren’t shot, rather the huge side load the belts where putting on the idler caused the bolt holding the idler to the engine to break off inside the engine, and so the pulley was just barely lodged in there. I guess at some point I’ll have to remove the radiator and see if I can easy out the bolt stub. So obviously for now I cant put the idler back on, and as mentioned I dont think I need it.
I bought the vehicle last September, and not knowing any better, have been driving it like this since then. I even drove it to Canada and back, all indications were it was running fine.
I also drained the oil, there were some metal flakes in the bottom of the catch basin. I’m going to remove the lower oil pan tomorrow and see if there are any bigger bits in there. I removed the WIX filter and visually it looked fine, but I haven't cut it open yet.
When some of you guys were saying the idler pulley didnt matter, i didnt understand that comment because this is how the belts were run on my machine
You can see the belts run on the inside of the idler pulley. This of course is wrong, the belts should run on the outside of the pulley, barely touching it. I have no idea how the previous owner got the belts to do this, it must have been a real pain. This is probably why the belts were messed up. It turns out the bearings in the pulley weren’t shot, rather the huge side load the belts where putting on the idler caused the bolt holding the idler to the engine to break off inside the engine, and so the pulley was just barely lodged in there. I guess at some point I’ll have to remove the radiator and see if I can easy out the bolt stub. So obviously for now I cant put the idler back on, and as mentioned I dont think I need it.
I bought the vehicle last September, and not knowing any better, have been driving it like this since then. I even drove it to Canada and back, all indications were it was running fine.
I also drained the oil, there were some metal flakes in the bottom of the catch basin. I’m going to remove the lower oil pan tomorrow and see if there are any bigger bits in there. I removed the WIX filter and visually it looked fine, but I haven't cut it open yet.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
That's a partial explanation.
Good idea to remove the pan.
Fingers crossed that its clean.
Did you get any pics of metal flakes?
Good idea to remove the pan.
Fingers crossed that its clean.
Did you get any pics of metal flakes?
And I thought the PO of mine did some weird crap! I'm guessing whoever did that only had experience with serpentine belts.
Some good advice here but the sensor or gauge can fail and just suddenly show no pressure. Mechanical check is needed at some point but you've got the right idea checking and taking your time. In regards to the oil filter back in about 2010 I did have a customer with a Camry run an amsoil filter that failed and threw a rod in though the block. Amsoil overnighted a check for the cost of a longblock installed at the dealer after sending them the filter and an oil sample. They Said the bypass valve was defective in the filter.
- Thread starter
- #56
It was too dark, I’ll get some in the morning
- Thread starter
- #57
I’ll pursue it directly with WIX if it turns out the filter was the problem. Thats not clear yet.
My belts were also like that when I bought my cruiser. When I was trying to replace them the same way without success I looked up the proper routing and they went on with ease.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Try a magnet on that material, if it’s magnetic than your crank is probably smoked maybe you can grind it, if it’s not magnetic it is bearing material and you may get away with polishing the crank and replacing the bearings. That really sucks but the bright side is you will have a rebuilt or new engine to last many years!
