Should I buy this '86 IROC? It only needs a couple of repairs..... That you could help me with.
And by "help me with" I mean "do for me".
Diamondplate...acceptable? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter edin351
- Start date
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Should I buy this '86 IROC? It only needs a couple of repairs..... That you could help me with.
And by "help me with" I mean "do for me".
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
picture from 1994?
the DP's were holding the bondo from falling out....but...it did look good for some time...had the $$$ a few years later to fix...now no more bondo....and no more DP's.
the DP's were holding the bondo from falling out....but...it did look good for some time...had the $$$ a few years later to fix...now no more bondo....and no more DP's.
Sure you can diamond plate.
You can put several extra coats of paint on.
You can take the time and cover the paint with undercoating.
You can seal the diamond plating up with seam sealer.
And 4 years from now when you want to do something different and take it off you will see this.
And after you digg deaper you will see this.
Which will make you want to do this.
Do you really want to do all that just to make it look cool.
Use it only to cover up what is already gone or will be soon.
You can put several extra coats of paint on.
You can take the time and cover the paint with undercoating.
You can seal the diamond plating up with seam sealer.
And 4 years from now when you want to do something different and take it off you will see this.
And after you digg deaper you will see this.
Which will make you want to do this.
Do you really want to do all that just to make it look cool.
Use it only to cover up what is already gone or will be soon.
- Thread starter
- #44
Trollhole, is that alum or steel dp?
Looks aluminum. My 62 fj40 had steel diamond plate put down on the rear floor, they did not seal it well, I pulled it up to find some sort of caulk and the original floor way to rusty to fix. So I cut out the old floor and welded the diamond plate in. There is no way I can afford factory looking rear floor pan, but putting back the DP and welding it was free, and I will be happy with it.
So do your DP and be happy. Use seam sealer, some Lowes sealers and caulks are water based and will actually cause rust.
So do your DP and be happy. Use seam sealer, some Lowes sealers and caulks are water based and will actually cause rust.
DP makes a 40 look like it is hiding some major cancer. If you have cancer then it is a great way to hide it. When I was looking to buy my 40 I looked at many 40's. The 40's with DP made me look all that much harder for hidden problems. Some people like DP and will put it on resto 40's in great condition, but that is usually the exception. The other issue's about DP that I don't like is the Jeep look and the corrosion issues that have already been mentioned. Overall it is your 40 and you can do what you want to with it. Every 40 that I see I would chance something on it. That includes my own 40. Everybody has there own likes and dislikes. For every person that doesn't like Dp there is one that will love it so make yourself happy and to hell with everyone else. 
Alum/
Anyone with years of Cruiser experience all know these will rust over time no matter what you do unless you live in the desert and don't drive in the rain or snow,and stay out of mudd puddles.
Just do it and be happy with it.
Just do it and be happy with it.
- Thread starter
- #49
I would be doing steel and so i would avoid the negative effects of dissimilar metal corrosion, and the plan would be to cut out the quarters and weld the DP in place...
I think i'm gonna go for it and hope for the best, I like the way it looks and I believe i'm doing it the right way. I'm going with they way people have done it that have had success, hopefully the same will happen for me.
- Thread starter
- #50
regardless of whether i do DP or replace with new sheet metal, what guage is appropriate?
hey
Hey listen, what the F is the big deal?. I have seen on this very forum some of the most built 40's built by some of the most hardcore and knowledgeable guys who instead of buying sliders for their 40's they weld or bolt into place Steel angle iron on their rockers that act as sliders!!. So now EVERY 40 you see with this pretty cool mod IMO is going to be hiding rust on the rockers and the OWNER is a dumbarse for doing it to their trucks????. NO. So why is it ok for those guys to bolt or weld steel to their rockers and NOT ok to bolt or weld steel to the rears?. WHats the debate here? stop worrying about what the other guy thinks of your Diamond plate, just do it if you want, get out there and use your truck as intended, I personally dont care what others have done, if I see a cruiser(not many up here BTW) with DP corners I'm just thinking "Cool, another cruiser, nice, whats your name buddy".
Hey listen, what the F is the big deal?. I have seen on this very forum some of the most built 40's built by some of the most hardcore and knowledgeable guys who instead of buying sliders for their 40's they weld or bolt into place Steel angle iron on their rockers that act as sliders!!. So now EVERY 40 you see with this pretty cool mod IMO is going to be hiding rust on the rockers and the OWNER is a dumbarse for doing it to their trucks????. NO. So why is it ok for those guys to bolt or weld steel to their rockers and NOT ok to bolt or weld steel to the rears?. WHats the debate here? stop worrying about what the other guy thinks of your Diamond plate, just do it if you want, get out there and use your truck as intended, I personally dont care what others have done, if I see a cruiser(not many up here BTW) with DP corners I'm just thinking "Cool, another cruiser, nice, whats your name buddy".
If your going for Heavy Duty, you might consider going with Bud Built quarter panels.
BudBuilt - Land Cruiser Parts
We are happy to introduce a line of lasercut and CNC brake formed 3/16" thick replacement panels for your FJ-40. These are very beefy units that replace all the sheet metal with this heavy steel and allow much better success in the war on trees and rocks! Quarter panels: The first available parts are the rear quarter panels, all formed and ready to weld in place. These are 3/16" thick, and made for beating on trees and rocks, NOT for restorations. They are $325 for the pair.
BudBuilt - Land Cruiser Parts
We are happy to introduce a line of lasercut and CNC brake formed 3/16" thick replacement panels for your FJ-40. These are very beefy units that replace all the sheet metal with this heavy steel and allow much better success in the war on trees and rocks! Quarter panels: The first available parts are the rear quarter panels, all formed and ready to weld in place. These are 3/16" thick, and made for beating on trees and rocks, NOT for restorations.
They are $325 for the pair.
3/16"? Thats purty thick and heavy. My 1/16" diamond plate has endured beatings with no give as of yet. I would think that 3/16" plating would be over kill and too heavy IMO.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
for what its worth....i love my 3/16" quarter panels and 1/8" floors...mine are not BudBuilt...mine are Poor Wally's Land Cruiser Emporium ....either way....they TAKE a HUGE beating...as for weight....it runs about the same as running a hardtop...but....thats like i said 1/8" floors, 1/4" channel across the sides and 3/16" sides
So What?
We made sure the body was A-#1 underneath, then we did the diamond plate BECAUSE WE LIKE IT!!
We made sure the body was A-#1 underneath, then we did the diamond plate BECAUSE WE LIKE IT!!
Yeah, it's all about what you like. When I was looking for an FJ, I was trying to avoid those with D-Plate, but when I came across the one I have, I thought that it was really cool how the P.O. had formed and installed the D-Plate himself. I get a lot of good comments on the front fenders especially since they were meticulously bent in the original shape of the stock fenders. They are very strong too. I accidentally hit a tree at about 2 mph while descending down a steep grade. My engine flooded out and stalled and I couldn't brake. The right fender hit hard, but nothing gave. Very strong!
- Thread starter
- #57
3/16" does seem a bit too much, especially cuz half the yr i will also be running a hard top... i thnk i'll go with 1/8"
Now my truck's taken apart and stripped down to the bare metal for paint so there's no way i can drive over to the local steel shop and have them cut and bend a piece for the rear quarter...is there any way i can give a set of dimensions and have them cut it from that? what is the radius around the bend?
Now my truck's taken apart and stripped down to the bare metal for paint so there's no way i can drive over to the local steel shop and have them cut and bend a piece for the rear quarter...is there any way i can give a set of dimensions and have them cut it from that? what is the radius around the bend?
brooklyn
SILVER Star
budbuilt
That's not a bad price for those - if possible I would use those instead of DP. If you ever want to sell your fj40 -- DP will drop the price and it does look kind-of-jeepish. And I like jeeps, but your fj40 shouldn't look like a jeep.
That's not a bad price for those - if possible I would use those instead of DP. If you ever want to sell your fj40 -- DP will drop the price and it does look kind-of-jeepish. And I like jeeps, but your fj40 shouldn't look like a jeep.
- Thread starter
- #59
I hope to never have to sell this thing...hoepfully it will be my first AND last car
i was thinking something of a body armor type deal with it,
instead of having the two metals touch, and if the quarters are rust free, maybe when you bolt, or however you fasten it to the sides, put some rubber gaskets, or something of the sort in between the DP metal and the quarters. thus... if you ever knock into anything off roading, you don't run as high of a chance of doing severe damage to the quarters, and just to the DP, and to solve the dents, take them off, and either replace with a new sheet, or hammer it out, and slap it back on
instead of having the two metals touch, and if the quarters are rust free, maybe when you bolt, or however you fasten it to the sides, put some rubber gaskets, or something of the sort in between the DP metal and the quarters. thus... if you ever knock into anything off roading, you don't run as high of a chance of doing severe damage to the quarters, and just to the DP, and to solve the dents, take them off, and either replace with a new sheet, or hammer it out, and slap it back on