JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Only 10??? What are you planning on selling soon??
old parts become unobtainium alot
you may want to get 20 more
destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread
- Thread starter destin
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old parts become unobtainium alot
you may want to get 20 more
- Thread starter
- #582
old parts become unobtainium alot
you may want to get 20 more
good point
changed order to 30
Going to order some of the oil lines too with this part number ( if it is available )
90923-03001
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
old parts become unobtainium alot
This isn't a new thing either I remember the guy behind the counter would say that's a E code. Someone will correct if I'm wrong. But I think is was the E code that meant no longer made, none in the country, what was left back Japan that was the last of it. Probably heard that the first time over twenty years ago. At least now with mud we can get our own part numbers. The dealers can't help you with anything before 3/69 unless you have the part number for them. Few dealers used to have the old paper books but they are becoming fewer and fewer. I guess that's why to see them sold on Ebay sometimes.
- Thread starter
- #584
Yeah, there was only 32 oil filters left in the US, i grabbed 30 of those.
But there is likely some to be had in japan.
I bet there are quite a few aftermarket ones that fit too.
But there is likely some to be had in japan.
I bet there are quite a few aftermarket ones that fit too.
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- #585
also...
The heat riser valve is officially operational and unseized
booya!
The heat riser valve is officially operational and unseized
booya!
- Thread starter
- #586
ok it is time for dumb questions
So when i go to hook up the original oil filter canister...
Most of the oil in a 40 sits in the pan right?
So if i disconnect the hoses, oil is not gonna gush out right ( other than what might be in the filter )
Yeah, i know dumb...
Same question applies the the oem fuel pump i suppose....
So when i go to hook up the original oil filter canister...
Most of the oil in a 40 sits in the pan right?
So if i disconnect the hoses, oil is not gonna gush out right ( other than what might be in the filter )
Yeah, i know dumb...
Same question applies the the oem fuel pump i suppose....
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Oil is no problem most will drain back into the oil pan. The oil system in the pre 74 F engines were only partial flow with the oil from filter draining straight back in to the pan. Use the drain plug on the oil filter to drain any oil left in the filter.
The fuel could possibly drian out of the fuel tank since it low on the block and the tank is just a little higher. If it's not higher it's close so be cardful. Shouldn't be problem to plug off. The line from the carburator will have a little fuel but not too much. If there is pressure it's not much.
The fuel could possibly drian out of the fuel tank since it low on the block and the tank is just a little higher. If it's not higher it's close so be cardful. Shouldn't be problem to plug off. The line from the carburator will have a little fuel but not too much. If there is pressure it's not much.
- Thread starter
- #588
I was reading through Bill's repower thread and stumbled across and interesting conversation about spark plugs
CruiserNerd posted a great link about the plugs:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-club/48021-spark-plug-66-f-fj45lwb.html
These are the plugs I should be using in my f135
Toyota Part #: 90098-16775
Denso Part #: W16P-U
Which i will order tomorrow...
So the question....
Do you guys run the gap in the plugs as is?
Or do you set the gap custom for the motor specs?
I know, i am on a stupid question roll
But if you do not ask you never know
CruiserNerd posted a great link about the plugs:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-club/48021-spark-plug-66-f-fj45lwb.html
These are the plugs I should be using in my f135
Toyota Part #: 90098-16775
Denso Part #: W16P-U
Which i will order tomorrow...
So the question....
Do you guys run the gap in the plugs as is?
Or do you set the gap custom for the motor specs?
I know, i am on a stupid question roll
But if you do not ask you never know
you ordered 30? thank god i have parts to trade for oil filters.. lol
- Thread starter
- #590
There are still some out there too.
Dan mentioned there are more likely in japan.
I bet sor has a bundle too.
with the mud discount through dan they were about 3 bucks a piece
the come with all the rubber seals too.
Speaking of filters, have you replaced your air filter? SOR doesn't even show one available and I haven't seen too many pictures of cruisers with the stock filter setup. Have you already been through this?
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- #592
- Thread starter
- #593
have most of the gear for the fuel system ready
Have an original pump on the way that i will have to rebuild
Should be a fun project
Does it matter what order these wires connect ( for the vaccum for 4wd i believe )
Had them marked... but when the shop pulled the motor the sticker labels must have slipped off
some powder coated bits
Have an original pump on the way that i will have to rebuild
Should be a fun project
Does it matter what order these wires connect ( for the vaccum for 4wd i believe )
Had them marked... but when the shop pulled the motor the sticker labels must have slipped off
some powder coated bits
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wait a minute.. what's that rubber hose on the fuel line?
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- #595
yeah, that is the way it was in the extra parts i received from the PO.
I could just have a brake line shop bend some copper with fittings for me if the rubber bit is a safety issue
Sucks that toyota discontinued the fuel pump rebuild kits
Looks like i get to practice m y template/ tracing skills
you use the parts Diaphram out of the pump you have in the pic a couple posts up.
- Thread starter
- #597
Took me a while to figure out what wires those were...........been a while. 
Doesn't matter if they get swapped, series switch, works either way.
Not 100% but I believe you can use standard copper tube for the fuel line and ferrules both ends, nothing special. If you want it to stay shiny you will have to spray it with clear.
Doesn't matter if they get swapped, series switch, works either way. Not 100% but I believe you can use standard copper tube for the fuel line and ferrules both ends, nothing special. If you want it to stay shiny you will have to spray it with clear.
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- Thread starter
- #599
Took me a while to figure out what wires those were...........been a while.
Not 100% but I believe you can use standard copper tube and ferrules both ends, nothing special. If you want it to stay shiny you will have to spray it with clear.
Sweet thanks man
I might have a brake shop ( or where else would i go ? ) re-bend some copper tube for the fuel lines with connectors at both ends. Brake line shops can do this yeah?
Also.
Pretty idiot proof to install the fuel pump right? gasket and gasket goop and 2 bolts? Anything else to keep an eye open for?
Fuel line is pretty easy, all slips together and the ferrules crimp the line when you tighten the nuts. By a cheap tubing bender a length of tubing and two ferrules, reuse the existing nuts.
Only thing to watch for with the pump is not too much goop, and if that's a replacement pump it may need the longer bolts for the thicker flange. If you are taking apart the diaphragm, do not use any goop on that joint.
Only thing to watch for with the pump is not too much goop, and if that's a replacement pump it may need the longer bolts for the thicker flange. If you are taking apart the diaphragm, do not use any goop on that joint.
