destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

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Yeap, painting the fire wall and inner hood black :D

There is a little piece of the inner fender skirt ( the bit that bolts to the frame ) that is stock as black too :)

Yeah i dunno about the frame, need to sort it out.
Going to clean and degrease more today.

Then start prepping.
Any old primer is fine for a base coat yeah?
 
destin said:
ok picked up this for primer :

Red Rusty Metal Primer by Rustoleum - More Primer at doitbest.com

and this for top coat:

http://doitbest.com/House+and+Barn+Paint-Rustoleum-model-7779-402-doitbest-sku-777332.dib

They said no hardener was needed :)

Any objections to this combo?

:D
Click to expand...

That will work fine...in all reality you could brush the rustoleum onto the chassis and axles with no primer....it will still stick.
Like I said do some testing on some small parts to make sure your happy with results before slathering it all over your rig.:steer:
I would think your body shop will want you or them to strip EVERYTHING off the frame if they are going to spray it. No doubt its a good way to go...but a lot of extra work and $$$.
 
:D

Seems like every one has differing opinions about what is correct :)

I mean ideally it make sense to pull the motor out and blast it all and paint it., but i just do not have the space or gear for that ( unless someone in portland wants to volunteer space and help )

I have 2 options..

1) paint it like it is...

2) Or leave it the way it is now ( i am only driving this thing in good weather any how, but it will definitely see plenty of dirt and service dirt roads etc )

So if i was painting it the way it is, can every one come to a consensus on what to paint it with? :D

On one side the por 15 seems fine to me, seems alot of people here use it. But some of you guys seem to think it is akin to putting ducktape on your rig. I just want to do the best thing to pretect it form rusting any further.

I just hate the feeling of doing something if i am unsure if i am indeed doing the correct thing :(


more pics from today.
took off some surface rust with the dewalt drill and a bristel brush attachment,
then degrease and power washed again.

3913627728_cbd2224a42_o.jpg

3912842435_c384d500d9_o.jpg

3913628624_235fc0d4c5_o.jpg

3912840883_7727d4f766_o.jpg

3912840701_c806a60003_o.jpg

3912841049_9c6c247972_o.jpg

3912840245_11aa918baa_o.jpg


Noticed a fuel filter before the fuel pump...
full of rust, need to swap it out ( had the tank relined )

3913626560_eb7d0816af_o.jpg


Dean, the running boards i have that i am giving a way ( bought some nicer ones ) are on that flicker page, jsut check out the photofeed.
The are a little rough , but the outer skirting is good, and some one could salvage them with a little metal work :D
 
Did you look at the Rustoleum rust reformer? That's supposed to convert any remaining rust, and then you coat it with whatever topcoat you want. As for using anything other than the marine clean/metal ready/POR15/POR Chassis paint combo, I think you run the risk of suboptimal results. At least that's the impression I got from reading the POR literature.
 
destin said:
:D


1) paint it like it is...
Click to expand...

Black enamel, old style chassis black (coal tar, no idea what the POR stuff is) or industrial Sherwin Williams coal tar epoxy. Just my $.02 since you asked.

Oh, and my topcoat on the 25 is Tractor Supply Valspar with hardener. I like it.
 
Thnaks guys

Is the industrial Sherwin Williams coal tar epoxy like por15 then?
Can it be brushed on?

What about surface rust?

What you use underneath the 25 topcoat?
Did you take the frame off or do it the way i am?

Sorry for all the questions guys :D
 
Have you ever checked out this build thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/89817-1964-fj40-build.html?

I found it very helpful and informative, and it was the first place I ever saw a thorough discussion of the use of POR 15. I'm like you Destin, I have neither the know-how, equipment or space to remove my engine, transmission and transfer case, drive train, etc. To learn how to do this would take so much time, and I'm trying not to have an exploded cruiser sitting around doing nothing. I've come to the realization that it'll never be like my64fj40's or other mechanics who can do a full-frame off. I just want it to look good and have some modicum of protection that I can manage. For the frame, I'm going to put a coat of some rust-inhibiting paint/primer and a good-looking topcoat, and spend the rest of my time and money on the fun details. Keep posting your pictures, this is a great thread.
 
I used Rust - Bullet on my frame. It is a moisture cured product similar to POR15. It is hard..........too hard, I've had it chip/flake when I've put a jack under the frame. :frown:

My recommendation is a rust inhibiting primer and a black enamel overcoat for the frame. Especially if it's going to have an easy life from here on out. The coal tar epoxy is extremely tough but flexible (won't chip), brushable, but is high build and will look like baby-poo. ;)
 
:grinpimp:I dunno man your so close to having that frame stripped. Go get a hoist at HF and get that motor/tranny/transfer outta there.
Strip the rest of the stuff off, have it all blasted and painted with good auto paint "Might as well" go through the motor, axles, tranny, transfer while they are all out.:grinpimp:

That thing looks awesome naked!!!
 
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I won't use POR again, good product for some applications like Real bad rust.
Its to thick to use as just a sealer alone and can chip too.
The best Frame paint IMHO so far is Dupont Prime & Seal about the same prep time as POR but much thinner but wares like steel.
 
Destin, it all comes down to what you want, so you need to decide what YOU want to do. You know that I would go the extra mile and have it stripped, and have the shop paint it...I mean you are soooo close. You might just want to sand, prime and brush on some rustoleum, or the Dupont stuff Dusty mention, and you know what, that should be great for many years to come. At least this way, should you want to lift the tub again in a couple of years to do the frame, then you won't have too much of a mess to take off.

I have heard much about POR chipping (like Jim mentioned above) that I would most likely never use this on any thing I have...but that's just me. And the rest of the products sound similar...sometimes the KISS system truly is best...I've said these words to myself all too often after I have over-thought something..."Keep It Simple Stupid"...simplicity is most often the winner in my home...and wasn't that what you like about the Cruiser in the first place?

I guess we are all enjoying your work so much, that we are getting all excited about which way to go. Whatever you do, just keep the pics coming...I enjoy reading this thread :cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
I hear your enthusiasm guys ;)

I would love to remove the motor and blast and repaint the frame, but that is outside of what i can do on my own period.

If some one in town can have the motor pulled, frame blasted and painted and motor brake lines and exhaust popped back in for 1500 ish buck range I am keen.

But i cannot really spend much more than that at this point.
Already doing more body work than i anticipated :(

So i Guess i can call landcruiser specialties or landcruiser nw and see if they can do it inside that range...

Hey Dean, i will pm you about those extra running boards.
 
destin said:
I hear your enthusiasm guys ;)

I would love to remove the motor and blast and repaint the frame, but that is outside of what i can do on my own period.

If some one in town can have the motor pulled, frame blasted and painted and motor brake lines and exhaust popped back in for 1500 ish buck range I am keen.

But i cannot really spend much more than that at this point.
Already doing more body work than i anticipated :(

So i Guess i can call landcruiser specialties or landcruiser nw and see if they can do it inside that range...

Hey Dean, i will pm you about those extra running boards.
Click to expand...

I hear ya...it can get out of control pretty fast once you get all excited. Why not give Shane a call to see if he might have a solution for you? You never know.

Thanks for the PM :beer:
 
My wife said no FJ! said:
I hear ya...it can get out of control pretty fast once you get all excited. Why not give Shane a call to see if he might have a solution for you? You never know.

Thanks for the PM :beer:
Click to expand...

np man :D

Shane seems pretty busy with work plus his own projects.
I have not seen him online in a while.

I will call and in town shop and see if they can cut me a deal...

What do you guys think the labor costs would be to pull the motor, break lines disconnected ( already unbolted form the frame just hooked to the drums ) and exhaust ( 5 bolts )
AND-
Drop the motor and reconnect the brake lines when painted?

This is just the shop labor not the painting, i can get that quote from the paint shop.

I would drop the exhaust myself but ya need a lift to get it out ( or stable racks and jacks )

What is sucky is when shops know you're restoring their first instinct is to charge more :(
 
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