BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Hahahaha
Right.......
Delta VS Radius Arms (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter Delta VS
- Start date
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Right.......
Just installed both radius arms and rear panhard bracket. With a new 3” suspension kit, it drives like new. Adjustable front panhard bar is highly recommended together with the sway bar extended links. Thanks Delta VS! Great quality stuff!
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You running any sales on that bracket anytime soon? Did not really understand the different between it and an adjustable bar till I read through your informative thread on the topic.
Driving the rig with the radius arms only will definitely make it difficult as the truck keeps wobbling sideways, mainly on highways, demanding constant correction on the steering wheel and quite frankly scaring other drivers. Be careful.
it is a bit of an investment buying these parts from Delta but if anything, probably the one area where good quality parts make a huge difference is the suspension. I’m not endorsing, just personal opinion. The Delta radius arms + bracket are good quality stuff and I’m happy with how they perform.
it is a bit of an investment buying these parts from Delta but if anything, probably the one area where good quality parts make a huge difference is the suspension. I’m not endorsing, just personal opinion. The Delta radius arms + bracket are good quality stuff and I’m happy with how they perform.
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Interesting. I experienced the exact opposite. Just adding the radius arms made a massive improvement in highway handling.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
This is not true. Wandering, ignoring all other maintenance issues, is mostly attributed to caster and the arms correct this. The panhard bracket will assist but, you will find the arms will provide a greater improvement than the bracket.
I installed my PH bracket first, good improvement. Installed the radius arms about 6 months later. Significant improvement.
Copy that. That is what I thought.
COYS
SILVER Star
+1
My experience:
Bracket - nominal gains
Radius arms - material gains even going from caster plates at ~2 positive caster to current 4+ with arms
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
I found the front adjustable panhard, radius arms, and rear panhard bracket were absolute game changers.
Each piece made a very noticeable difference but combined it's Epic.
I've got my axles roughly centered. I couldn't handle having so much want for a Delta rear bumper to match my front bumper so I pulled the trigger a few weeks ago, Merry Christmas to me
Once I get my rear bumper installed and Dobson Springs to match I'll be verifying my axles are dead on center via the adjustable panhards.
The last piece I'm curious about is the few bushings in the back that are not new I'm wondering if I change those if I feel another significant difference?
“I found the front adjustable panhard, radius arms, and rear panhard bracket were absolute game changers.”
agree with you BillyGoatMTB. If there is a 3”+ complete lift installed, the difference with these new parts installed vs stock stuff is ridiculous. Almost like driving a new truck on an “old” body.
new sway bar bushings help but sway bar extended links will make you feel the difference while cruising much more pronounced than only with bushings installed, imo. Having both is ideal to help with the roll.
agree with you BillyGoatMTB. If there is a 3”+ complete lift installed, the difference with these new parts installed vs stock stuff is ridiculous. Almost like driving a new truck on an “old” body.
new sway bar bushings help but sway bar extended links will make you feel the difference while cruising much more pronounced than only with bushings installed, imo. Having both is ideal to help with the roll.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Appreciate the input and conversation. I have @Delta VS front sway drops and rear bump stops as well.
Would you suggest looking into rear sway drops when I change the sway bushings as well? I think dobinson makes a rear sway drop bracket.
Really looking forward to getting those sway bar bushings changed to see a difference.
I found the front adjustable panhard, radius arms, and rear panhard bracket were absolute game changers.
Each piece made a very noticeable difference but combined it's Epic.
I've got my axles roughly centered. I couldn't handle having so much want for a Delta rear bumper to match my front bumper so I pulled the trigger a few weeks ago, Merry Christmas to me
Once I get my rear bumper installed and Dobson Springs to match I'll be verifying my axles are dead on center via the adjustable panhards.
The last piece I'm curious about is the few bushings in the back that are not new I'm wondering if I change those if I feel another significant difference?
Probably depends on the individual truck and how it was used. I just replaced ALL of my arms and rods so I have some R&D for you. I debated pulling them and doing the bushings, but I don't have access to a garage or press. I was able to swap out the suspension and all of the arms in a solid day on my snow covered driveway. The 80 is also my DD so I wanted to minimize downtime. I looked at ordering a complete bushing set from Wits End but in my case it was more cost effective to just replace all of the arms. With the Dobinsons adjustables, Delta fronts, and Delta panhard bracket I think I am going to be about as dialed in as possible with a 3" lift. I really want my fiancée to be comfortable driving the truck on longer trips.
- On my front radius arms the bushings looked okay. About what you would expect after 25 years but no destroyed.
- All 4 rear UCA bushings were rotted out and completely shot. Half the bushing rotated with the bolts, the other half did not.
- Rear LCA bushings were okay on the frame side, but destroyed on the axle side.
- Panhard bushings were close to being shot on the front and rear.
Edit: I did not replace the swaybars, but did do the bushings on the front. Need to do the rear at some point.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Awesome info, my D to R & R to D clunk cleaned up a ton changing all 4 u joints, PIA but big difference. I'll be looking at the rear slip yolk slop next (probably new rear drive shaft) and front drive flanges to clean up more driveline play.
Back to delta and bushings, I have been eying the Land tank rear arms with new bushings.
I may get a rear adjustable panhard to go with my Delta rear bracket depending how the new Delta rear bumper and Doby springs settle out for axle centering.
I'll report back
I haven't experienced the clunks with the gear shift but it sounds like a new rear cv drive shaft could solve the problems with that.
I'm driving a stock rig with newly installed 3" Flexi Dobs springs, Icon 2.0, Delta radius arms + rear bracket attached to a Dobs adjustable pahnard bar (doesn't need to be adjustable but it is what I found at the time), slee sway bar extended links on the front and the extended links on the rear are from trail tailor. It is driving f'n amazing!
There is still stuff to be done to finalize the geometry correction after the 3" lift but with those parts installed it already feels like uncle Toyoda left a new truck in my driveway. Just adding my 2 yen here
I'm driving a stock rig with newly installed 3" Flexi Dobs springs, Icon 2.0, Delta radius arms + rear bracket attached to a Dobs adjustable pahnard bar (doesn't need to be adjustable but it is what I found at the time), slee sway bar extended links on the front and the extended links on the rear are from trail tailor. It is driving f'n amazing!
There is still stuff to be done to finalize the geometry correction after the 3" lift but with those parts installed it already feels like uncle Toyoda left a new truck in my driveway. Just adding my 2 yen here
I think there are two ways to look at this. If you have stock bushings that are shot, replacing them will tighten everything up which it noticeable. If your have stock bushings that are decent, you won't notice much difference, BUT if you switch the bushings to the OME style (rubber bushing with separate metal sleeve) you will notice that the suspension binds a lot less. I put OME adjustable upper control arms in to fix my rear pinion angle. I was very surprised at how much more easily the rear suspension moved. For reference, my current setup is Delta 4" arms, Delta 3" bracket, Dob's 3" coils and shocks, OME upper adjustables, Dob's front panhard, and Marlin HD steer kit.
Of course!
The bump stops will help a lot on the trail, asphalt not so much but important for lifted trucks.
It is good measure to install all 4 sway bar enxtensions at once instead of a pair only on the front or rear. As you have the extension drops on the front already, highly recommended to install a pair on the rear. LandCruiserPhil and Trail Tailor have some good quality extension links.
There are some options out there regarding sway bar extension link designs. I like the link itself to be extended and not the bracket holding it. Imo, extended brackets look weak but that is just me. I've seen custom extended brackets that are very thick and seemed ready to tackle serious pressure. The Dobinsons model is an extended bracket, if you like the design go for it.
The main noticeable difference after the correcting parts are installed is with the roll while turning the truck, much more stable after the geometry is corrected.
Crush 4
SILVER Star
What brand of tires and do you like the way they ride?
Thx
