How short are you going? I have a 2" lift and even I would benefit having a 3" kit from what I've gathered reading/conversations .
Delta Vehicle Systems Panhard Lift Bracket, 3" & 5" (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Delta VS
- Start date
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PM'd you. Interested in getting this off your hands.
Having installed mine, when I was doing the install of the bracket, on the step that you re-install the 4link, mine was kind of springing towards the top of the vehicle, and this made it feel like I needed 4 hands to get things together.
A tip:
Hustle the 4link on to the bracket.
Then you can use a clamp like this (12" size) to adjust it into position while using an alignment bar for the bracket.
Then run a brass punch into the hole to keep position
Then use the alignment bar, and bolt to force the brass punch out, and you are done!
A tip:
Hustle the 4link on to the bracket.
Then you can use a clamp like this (12" size) to adjust it into position while using an alignment bar for the bracket.
Then run a brass punch into the hole to keep position
Then use the alignment bar, and bolt to force the brass punch out, and you are done!
I leave all bolts finger tight until the entire bracket is in. Done 3 of them now. The coil can be a PITA to work around with that one bolt depending on lift and brand.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
^^^This^^^ Is fantastic advice for all installs.
Leave it loose and fit it before tightening.
Might want to try and apply some heat directly to the nut/bolt assembly and also get some WD40/Liquid Wrench and let it soak in.
Been soaking with on blaster. I need to get a mapp torch. Propane hasn’t been getting it done for me
In the process of adding the Delta VS Panhard Lift Bracket to flatten out the panhard and improve highway handling I just went through this as well getting my driver side panhard bolt to crack loose. The previous owner had installed some aftermarket heavy duty adjustable panhard bar which was great for the Icon Stage 3 suspension he'd also installed (or had installed...). However that bolt would not budge with two different impact drivers, lots of penetrating oil, or my 2' breaker bar with all the force I could muster. So I got an idea... I took the 3-ton rolling floor jack, installed the breaker bar and a tight impact socket, put the jack under the end of the breaker bar and started lifting with far more force than I could ever muster myself, that bar was clearly bending and had quite a curve to it when !POP! the bolt released! It then came out the rest of the way with the impact driver. Once out it was clear that the previous owner had used a large amount of Loctite Red (permanent) thread locker compound on the bolt. There was little to no rust on the threads. Who knows how much torque it ultimately took, but it was a lot. I got it the bracket installed and everything back together and torqued up to the around 160 ft-lbs, but will order a replacement bolt in the near future for fear that it may have been damaged by the removal torque.
Since the addition of the Delta VS panhard lift also triggered a need to shorten the panhard by about 1/4" to near factory length I also needed to crack the big 2" locking nut on the panhard... same general problem as before using a 2" crows foot on the breaker bar. So, I removed the panhard completely, laid the nut flats on top of a steel 5# maul on the driveway then smacked the nut hard from above with a 2# brass maul, rotated to the next nut flat and repeated until I'd worked my way around the nut. Reinstalled the panhard and used the floor jack technique again on the breaker bar and 2" crows foot and pop went that big nut allowing me to adjust the panhard to the right position. All in all a harder install project than expected, but got it done.
Pretty sure that applying heat should help break loose red lock tight.
Agreed that heat often helps, the MAP gas torch was very helpful on pressing out my radius arm bushings last week. The problem with this particular panhard bolt is that it's near impossible getting the heat where it needs to be at captive nut threads. Perhaps some have had luck in just shooting the flame into the hole on the back of bracket; and that was next on my list of things to try if the breaker bar and jack trick didn't pan out. Actually, my plan was to leave a whole lot of torque on the bolt and then start shooting fire into that hole! But just applying heat to the head of the bolt in hopes of it getting to the nut 3+ inches away is not likely to help much and might ruin the panhard bushing in the process, but who knows. As always, read what others have done and just keep trying stuff until something works!
Hi y’all, I reached out via email to Delta and LCP but haven’t heard back yet. Maybe I can get some help here.
I measured from ground to axle bolt (18 inches), and ground to frame bolt (23.5 inches) to find a difference of 5.5 inches. The truck is not loaded up but is equipped with long bp-51s, ome 2864 rear springs, slee swing out, skid, sliders, arb bumper and a winch. Tires are 315s, and has slee 2 inch bump stop extensions installed. The suspension has roughly 700 miles on it so it may settle a but more.
considering all this, Would it be better to go with the 3 or 5 inch variant? Photos below.
Thanks!
I measured from ground to axle bolt (18 inches), and ground to frame bolt (23.5 inches) to find a difference of 5.5 inches. The truck is not loaded up but is equipped with long bp-51s, ome 2864 rear springs, slee swing out, skid, sliders, arb bumper and a winch. Tires are 315s, and has slee 2 inch bump stop extensions installed. The suspension has roughly 700 miles on it so it may settle a but more.
considering all this, Would it be better to go with the 3 or 5 inch variant? Photos below.
Thanks!
FJRanger
SILVER Star
My bet would be on the 3 inch. Going from memory, the 5 inch isn't for most and is ment for the really tall springs.
Thanks, I think that’s likely the right move.
