Defrost hose collars???? (1 Viewer)

[bentwigg]

I had the same issue and appreciated the ideas in this thread! I found these 2.25" to 2.5" silicone transition couplers, and they fit great:

Amazon product ASIN B007ZG1KEM
They cost $11 each when I got them.

 

[Gearhead]

On my 71 , I used two silicone 2 3/8 I.D. 90* elbows off each side of the heater box to direct air up, mated to Home Depot Rigid brand vacuum tube. To the right side defrost duct I used 2 3/8 I.D. 45* elbow and to the left a straight 2 3/8 I.D. collar.
The silicone connectors are the type used for turbo plumbing and required only a slight trimming with a razor blade to fit, added a couple hose clamps and done!

 

[Relot76]

This is an old thread but really helpful. My heater has worked fine since 1969 but left defrost duct got damaged recently. What is the best (easiest) way to access the top of the defrost ducts (where the hoses connect at the top)? Do I need to pull out the heater unit to get up in there? Sorry to ask such a dumb question. I have just never had to work on the heater all these years.

 

[bentwigg]

If I remember correctly, you can get them off and on with the heater in place - but it will probably put some stress on your defrost hoses (due to the bending/twisting required). Not sure if it's easier without the heater - as I recall the heater wasn't really in the way, space was just tight up under the dash. I seem to remember doing some contortions to get the right angle for reinstalling, but maybe I did it the hard way and someone will have better advice!

 

[TheHardWay]

Pull the bottom of the hose away from the heater box first - should pop right off. Then slide your hand under the dash as far up the hose as possible, carefully grip and pull the hose down until it's clear of the steel connector tube. There shouldn't be a clamp holding it to the steel connector.

 

[Relot76]

If I remember correctly, you can get them off and on with the heater in place - but it will probably put some stress on your defrost hoses (due to the bending/twisting required). Not sure if it's easier without the heater - as I recall the heater wasn't really in the way, space was just tight up under the dash. I seem to remember doing some contortions to get the right angle for reinstalling, but maybe I did it the hard way and someone will have better advice!

Thank you!

 

[Relot76]

Pull the bottom of the hose away from the heater box first - should pop right off. Then slide your hand under the dash as far up the hose as possible, carefully grip and pull the hose down until it's clear of the steel connector tube. There shouldn't be a clamp holding it to the steel connector.

Thank you!

 

[Relot76]

I noticed today that one of my drain hoses for the windshield (top) cowl vent had slipped loose from the connector pipe. I took off the cowl vent cover and vent. It opens up some space where I can get a couple of fingers around the defrost ducts if they will not cooperate from the bottom. Thanks again for the quick and helpful responses from The Hard Way and Bent Wigg!

 

[m3driver]

I'm a noob - so be kind. I was just looking at where my defrost ducting "should" go on my new to me 77 FJ40. Great tips on the autozone and summit racing bits. I'm not a purist (given the Gen 1 SBC 350 under the hood) so I'm fine with non oem solutions. My question is if someone could look at the heater core coolant hoses in the attached picture. It just doesn't look right and there seems to be a lot of stuff on the FJ that the PO kind of mickeymoused. You should have seen the giant kink in the lower rad hose, not sure how any water was flowing thru it at all. Changed it and engine temps dropped 40F.

my guess is that at one point this FJ had a rear heater and someone in the history of this FJ kludged this set up. I'm thinking I should be able to remove the U shaped kinked hose and cap off the lines somehow. Or at the least shorten the U shaped hose so it doesn't look so stupid. If I cap them off there should be no issues with heating the cab or possible limiting flow to and from the engine, right? Thanks in advance and look forward to someday not being a noob.

 

[TheHardWay]

Try two 90' elbows and 3 short hoses to make a smaller, kink free loop to replace the kludged one.

 

[bentwigg]

Pretty sure that's where hoses used to go to the rear heater. I have them capped with ribbed nylon plugs (intended for 1/2" PEX pipe, I think) and hose clamps. As far as I know this hasn't caused any issues.

Edit: here's a photo of how mine looks from straight on and from below (so you can see caps better under stock guard).

 

[TheHardWay]

That's a good idea too.

 

[Rustinator]

I appreciate the advice and postings on this site. They have helped me tremendously. I thought I would share what I used for my defrost hoses on my '74 FJ40.

I was missing the entire hose/elbow/coupler on the left hand side (driver side) . Had the elbow hose and coupler on the right hand side but the coupler was ripped badly and not functional. The PO had used some aluminum duct tape around the upper portion of the hose and coupler but it was failing. The elbow was a little dry rotted but still functional. After cleaning the hose it was actually still in great shape.

After seeing some of the ideas here, I started trying to figure out if I had anything I could use. I remembered I had saved the dust boots off of some Bilstein 5125 shocks I had bought a year or so ago. I tend to save stuff like that thinking I might need it one day.

The rubber boots from the shocks actually worked really well. Here are some pictures:

Above is the test fit of about a 2.5 inch length of the boot on the metal cylinder under the dash passenger side. The rubber stretches enough to provide a snug fit.

Above is a little bit blurry picture of the factory hose inserted into the boot being used as the coupler to the metal cylinder under the dash. This pic was taken through the ashtray opening.

Above is a picture of the passenger side factory elbow connecting the hose to the heater. My "74 has the oblong opening at the heater.

Above is three sections of the the shock boots fitted together for the driver side.

Above is the shock boot derived defrost hose inserted into the heater opening. The rubber was flexible enough to conform pretty well to the oblong opening.


This greatly improved the effectiveness of the heater by the way. Apparently a lot of the heated air was being blown out the open driver side hole before. Now that the hose is there, more air comes out the louvered portion directed toward the driver and passenger..

Anyway, I thought this might benefit someone else looking for a cheap alternative for the defrost hoses or couplers.

 

[Relot76]

I appreciate the advice and postings on this site. They have helped me tremendously. I thought I would share what I used for my defrost hoses on my '74 FJ40.

I was missing the entire hose/elbow/coupler on the left hand side (driver side) . Had the elbow hose and coupler on the right hand side but the coupler was ripped badly and not functional. The PO had used some aluminum duct tape around the upper portion of the hose and coupler but it was failing. The elbow was a little dry rotted but still functional. After cleaning the hose it was actually still in great shape.

After seeing some of the ideas here, I started trying to figure out if I had anything I could use. I remembered I had saved the dust boots off of some Bilstein 5125 shocks I had bought a year or so ago. I tend to save stuff like that thinking I might need it one day.

The rubber boots from the shocks actually worked really well. Here are some pictures:


View attachment 2556596
Above is the test fit of about a 2.5 inch length of the boot on the metal cylinder under the dash passenger side. The rubber stretches enough to provide a snug fit.


View attachment 2556598
Above is a little bit blurry picture of the factory hose inserted into the boot being used as the coupler to the metal cylinder under the dash. This pic was taken through the ashtray opening.

View attachment 2556600
Above is a picture of the passenger side factory elbow connecting the hose to the heater. My "74 has the oblong opening at the heater.

View attachment 2556605
Above is three sections of the the shock boots fitted together for the driver side.

View attachment 2556609
Above is the shock boot derived defrost hose inserted into the heater opening. The rubber was flexible enough to conform pretty well to the oblong opening.


This greatly improved the effectiveness of the heater by the way. Apparently a lot of the heated air was being blown out the open driver side hole before. Now that the hose is there, more air comes out the louvered portion directed toward the driver and passenger..

Anyway, I thought this might benefit someone else looking for a cheap alternative for the defrost hoses or couplers.

Good ideas and really helpful photos. I found the same thing - spend time fixing and sealing the hoses and connectors and the heater does a nice job of knocking the chill off your feet and allowing you to see through the windshield in a snow storm.

 

[m3driver]

I appreciate the advice and postings on this site. They have helped me tremendously. I thought I would share what I used for my defrost hoses on my '74 FJ40.

I was missing the entire hose/elbow/coupler on the left hand side (driver side) . Had the elbow hose and coupler on the right hand side but the coupler was ripped badly and not functional. The PO had used some aluminum duct tape around the upper portion of the hose and coupler but it was failing. The elbow was a little dry rotted but still functional. After cleaning the hose it was actually still in great shape.

After seeing some of the ideas here, I started trying to figure out if I had anything I could use. I remembered I had saved the dust boots off of some Bilstein 5125 shocks I had bought a year or so ago. I tend to save stuff like that thinking I might need it one day.

The rubber boots from the shocks actually worked really well. Here are some pictures:


View attachment 2556596
Above is the test fit of about a 2.5 inch length of the boot on the metal cylinder under the dash passenger side. The rubber stretches enough to provide a snug fit.


View attachment 2556598
Above is a little bit blurry picture of the factory hose inserted into the boot being used as the coupler to the metal cylinder under the dash. This pic was taken through the ashtray opening.

View attachment 2556600
Above is a picture of the passenger side factory elbow connecting the hose to the heater. My "74 has the oblong opening at the heater.

View attachment 2556605
Above is three sections of the the shock boots fitted together for the driver side.

View attachment 2556609
Above is the shock boot derived defrost hose inserted into the heater opening. The rubber was flexible enough to conform pretty well to the oblong opening.


This greatly improved the effectiveness of the heater by the way. Apparently a lot of the heated air was being blown out the open driver side hole before. Now that the hose is there, more air comes out the louvered portion directed toward the driver and passenger..

Anyway, I thought this might benefit someone else looking for a cheap alternative for the defrost hoses or couplers.

I like the crinkle finish on the rig- what did you use? That's next on my list now that the tranny and new ramjet is installed.

 

[Rustinator]

I like the crinkle finish on the rig- what did you use? That's next on my list now that the tranny and new ramjet is installed.

It is some version of bedliner. It was that way when I bought it. I suspect Herculiner but not sure.

 

[Vandal FJ]

You lost me at collars, the heater outlets and upper defrost vents are all metal on a 40? If you are referring to the hoses, another member came across these lately as a much cheaper option than the stock hoses that work great. They are the 2.5 inch duct from Summit made by Dayco part 80170, defroster duct hose, Dayco autoflex.

Tucker

I used shop vac hose from Home Depot and aluminum duct tape sealer. Rubber gas tank filler elbows can be a cheap fix out of the heater box, too.