RoderickGI, any more luck with yours?
Definitive list of AHC maintenance items (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter yuji
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Not yet, but I haven't been able to get back to it. I might try the earlier version of Techstream next. But it isn't looking good for 1998 Australian delivered LX470's!
uHu
Bridgeburner
Do you have a lean to the left, or is it just the sensors which need a little adjustment?
Is you steering wheel straight in this read-out?
Is you steering wheel straight in this read-out?
I finally got a chance to do this: full tank, unloaded specs:
7.0 for the front.
6.4 for the rears.
Even though I already had Tactrix I wanted to see for myself whether the Mini-VCI was any better/different.
I just got it today and did a real quick test of a few areas.
First, I notice that the Mini-VCI is MUCH QUICKER.
Second, I still get an error when I try to run the All signal or One signal Test under the AHC ECU -> Utility.
Third - and this alone was worth it to me, many more of the Customize functions work. On Tactrix cable (even with the beta version of their driver etc), the steering wheel and mirror ecus were not accessible to me. Now - I was able to change my steering wheel so it doesn't auto telescope when I exit/enter the car. Also, I was able to run active tests on my mirror. I was never even able to get that far on the Tactrix cable.
So - at this point, from a technical standpoint the MiniVCI seems to be the clear winner at a fraction of the cost with the software included. Tactrix is $200, MiniVCI is ~$35.
Of course there's another angle where Tactrix wins for some - Tactrix being a legit US owned/operated company that doesn't package pirated software vs. MiniVCI which is a foreign company but worse they are clearly not a legal/legit operation since they redistribute pirated Techstream software in their package...
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I noticed today on uobd2's site where I ordered the minivci that they have 2 techstream packages:
1) http://www.uobd2.com/wholesale/mini-vci-for-toyota-tis-techstream-v500028-single-cable-2442.html which we all purchase for $35
and then they also have this
2) http://www.uobd2.com/wholesale/mini-vci-for-toyota-tis-techstream-v500028-1888.html for $48.
The more expensive one has a couple of differences but the main one seems to be that it comes with an additional 22pin cable. Does anyone know what the 22pin cable would be used for - would it be useful for folks like RoderickGI if the other cable doesn't work for them or is it not compatible with any of the plugs we have from 98+...? Just curious if anyone else has any idea.
Here are the "features":
Specification:
1.Feature
Support Toyota TIS OEM diagnostic software
Cost-effective, the price of product is only one-third of similar foreign products.
High performance with ARM cpu inside.
High reliability of products using SMD chip, and certified by CE and FCC.
Support all the diagnostic communication protocols needed for Toyota (since 1996).Can be updated by E-mail.
Not only provides commonly used J1962 connector, but also provides the old 22pin connector for Toyota.
2.Supported Protocols
K-Line ISO 9141/KWP 2000 ISO 14230-4/SAE J1850 PWM/SAE J1850 VPW/CAN 2.0B ISO 11898 /CAN ISO 15765-4
1) http://www.uobd2.com/wholesale/mini-vci-for-toyota-tis-techstream-v500028-single-cable-2442.html which we all purchase for $35
and then they also have this
2) http://www.uobd2.com/wholesale/mini-vci-for-toyota-tis-techstream-v500028-1888.html for $48.
The more expensive one has a couple of differences but the main one seems to be that it comes with an additional 22pin cable. Does anyone know what the 22pin cable would be used for - would it be useful for folks like RoderickGI if the other cable doesn't work for them or is it not compatible with any of the plugs we have from 98+...? Just curious if anyone else has any idea.
Here are the "features":
Specification:
1.Feature
Support Toyota TIS OEM diagnostic software
Cost-effective, the price of product is only one-third of similar foreign products.
High performance with ARM cpu inside.
High reliability of products using SMD chip, and certified by CE and FCC.
Support all the diagnostic communication protocols needed for Toyota (since 1996).Can be updated by E-mail.
Not only provides commonly used J1962 connector, but also provides the old 22pin connector for Toyota.
2.Supported Protocols
K-Line ISO 9141/KWP 2000 ISO 14230-4/SAE J1850 PWM/SAE J1850 VPW/CAN 2.0B ISO 11898 /CAN ISO 15765-4
The 22-pin is not usefull for me as the LX470 has the 16-pin connector.
I am still hoping that RoderickGI can get it working on his machine.
I am still hoping that RoderickGI can get it working on his machine.
I looked at the more expensive cable, but concluded that the Mini VCI cable itself was identical to the cheaper version. The only real difference is the inclusion of the 16 to 22 pin cable, which is used for earlier Toyota vehicles with the 22 pin plug. Mine has a 16 pin Multiplex OBD plug, so I don't need the extra adapter cable.
The other small differences are just the quality of the description, and that the image shows that they provide a separate CD for the driver and Techstream. Even that probably isn't correct, and you would just get one CD in the package, as per the written description.
I still haven't got back to it Wilsil. Did you buy one, or are you waiting on me?
I haven't bought one. Yet.
Hoping that you could get yours working before I buy, knowing it is only $36.
Hoping that you could get yours working before I buy, knowing it is only $36.
Have you used it yet? Did it measure your Front and Rear Pressure yet? I'm thinking of buying but want to make sure this'll work for the US-spec LX470's.
Yes the $35 mini vci with tech stream measures front and rear pressures, and a bunch of other AHC parameters on US spec Lx 470s, plenty of threads on the subject.
Anyone know the best definitive thread for removing the AHC?
Hang tight - I'm still removing mine. The best advice I can give you if you plan on doing it yourself is to get a set of gear wrenches with the swivel head and be prepared to get covered in AHC fluid. It's a mess.
My last ditch try at keeping the AHC is to have the neutral pressure tested. My tires rub on any little bump now and I'm not going to spend any money in fixing AHC components.
My results
Received my software & cable, loaded it, plugged in to the LX, parked on my garage pad, cycled the AHC from Low to Normal, and this is what I got. I was sitting in the LX with my laptop while testing...
My FR and FL Height Control Sensor readings seem pretty close together, so I'm thinking no adjustment is needed there?? Front pressure is slightly high, so I'll prolly tighten the TB's 2 full turns. Rear pressure is just out of spec. I was kinda hoping it was higher to explain the very light appearance of leaking from the rear shocks/rams. Still, I'll probably get new rear springs due to the existing ones having 6+ yrs on them. What about Steering Angle of 299.25 degrees? I had the wheels straight...maybe an alignment is in order. On second thought, before I do any adjusting of the TB's or replacing of the rear coils, I will flush the AHC and re-check the readings. This is for a 2006 LX470 mall cruiser w/65k miles. This newb would appreciate any feedback offered.
Received my software & cable, loaded it, plugged in to the LX, parked on my garage pad, cycled the AHC from Low to Normal, and this is what I got. I was sitting in the LX with my laptop while testing...
My FR and FL Height Control Sensor readings seem pretty close together, so I'm thinking no adjustment is needed there?? Front pressure is slightly high, so I'll prolly tighten the TB's 2 full turns. Rear pressure is just out of spec. I was kinda hoping it was higher to explain the very light appearance of leaking from the rear shocks/rams. Still, I'll probably get new rear springs due to the existing ones having 6+ yrs on them. What about Steering Angle of 299.25 degrees? I had the wheels straight...maybe an alignment is in order. On second thought, before I do any adjusting of the TB's or replacing of the rear coils, I will flush the AHC and re-check the readings. This is for a 2006 LX470 mall cruiser w/65k miles. This newb would appreciate any feedback offered.
Two or three turns on the TBs will bring your front pressure in spec, the front sensor readings look fine, do a steering angle reset to get that 299 degrees back down, if the vehicle steers well and tire wear is even you probably don't need an alignment. Do the fluid exchange if it's original and/or doesn't look fresh.
Thanks 
I will try to find a heavy-duty jack & jackstands that I can borrow, and will buy the 30mm socket next week for the TB cranking.
I saw your other thread about doing the steering angle reset and will try that next week, too.
I still have one more AHC-related question if you you or anyone else knows the answer...are the LC100AHC and LX470 rear coils identical, or do they have different spec's? Part #'s are different, and of course the LX coils are more spendy. Is it just the Lexus name thing, or is there an actual design difference between the two? Maybe the LX is softer for a cushier ride? If I replace using the LC100AHC coils instead of the LX coils, will there be an AHC, i.e. is each brands AHC tuned for the respective coil?
I will try to find a heavy-duty jack & jackstands that I can borrow, and will buy the 30mm socket next week for the TB cranking.
I saw your other thread about doing the steering angle reset and will try that next week, too.
I still have one more AHC-related question if you you or anyone else knows the answer...are the LC100AHC and LX470 rear coils identical, or do they have different spec's? Part #'s are different, and of course the LX coils are more spendy. Is it just the Lexus name thing, or is there an actual design difference between the two? Maybe the LX is softer for a cushier ride? If I replace using the LC100AHC coils instead of the LX coils, will there be an AHC, i.e. is each brands AHC tuned for the respective coil?
I didn't need to lift the front end off the ground when I did my neutral pressure adjustment. The FSM calls for the vehicle to be unladen, no passengers, full tank and on level ground. At 0.2MPa per TB turn you're probably just looking at 2 to 3 turns (each side, assuming you're already cross level) to get to nominal pressure so I'd give it a go without lifting the vehicle - unless your looking for an excuse to buy trolley jacks and stuff. I went 4 turns (stock '03 with 115k, first time TB adjustment) with wheels on the ground, 9" long 1/2' drive ratchet, didn't need an extension bar. Do give the TB adjusters a good squirt with penetrating oil the day beforehand. Different story re. the need to lift the front end for non AHC vehicles (thicker TBs = more torque on adjuster nut) that are "cranking for height", as opposed to just "adjusting for maintenance".
No experience on commonality, or otherwise, of LC v LX AHC coils. I tracked down LX coils for $89 (rh) and $96 (lh). PM for details if that's better than where you're at now. I'd be surprised if there was a difference in spring rates between same model year AHC LCs and Lxs though.
No experience on commonality, or otherwise, of LC v LX AHC coils. I tracked down LX coils for $89 (rh) and $96 (lh). PM for details if that's better than where you're at now. I'd be surprised if there was a difference in spring rates between same model year AHC LCs and Lxs though.
I didn't find it necessary to lift the front end off the ground either. Just put AHC in high when adjusting as that sufficiently takes the preload off the torsion bars to adjust.
I did my adjustment too. 3 turns on driver, and 2.75 turns on passenger. I added some trim packers to my rear springs too to account for the rear being out of spec.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/656163-ahc-neutral-pressure-adjustment.html
I did my adjustment too. 3 turns on driver, and 2.75 turns on passenger. I added some trim packers to my rear springs too to account for the rear being out of spec.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/656163-ahc-neutral-pressure-adjustment.html
I just want to confirm that these are the torsion bar bolts that I tighten? For some reason, I expected them to be at the end of the t-bars, but instead they are beside each bar, at the end under the driver and passenger seats? Its the only bolt I see down there that a 30mm will fit on...
