Deceptively Difficult Repairs

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Sep 21, 2006
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Wanted to start a thread pertaining to those repairs which seem like they'd be VERY simple, but somehow manage to be a real PITA.

Example: Heater core. Reason: go find it.
 
removing and replacing front skid plate, when the heads of the bolts broke off from all the rust, even after three different day long soaks with pb blaster. s***.
 
installing front doors, those front bolts are a real fawker.

Installing a hood with no marks.

installing a fender(aftermarket)

ALL very hard to do on a 60.

removing and replacing the glass in the back doors.

removing the riveted in c channels at the back of the frame is the number 1 worst job I have done on my 60 to date.
 
2" body lift on my 85FJ60... made difficult when, while jacking up the passenger side of the truck, I bent and broke the hard lines running into the top of the fuel tank. I had to drain about 16 gallons out of the fuel tank, drop it, buy and replace the hard lines, and put it all back.

Made a 4 hour project into a 4 day one... plus I smelled of gas for a week.
 
Simply removing the Gawdamn air cleaner assembly on these rigs is a pain in the ass.

1. Disconnect Air intake hose
2. unscrew carb nut
3. Disconnect 3 vacuum lines at carb
4. Disconnect EGR Modulator diapram from clip
5. Disconnect one smog hose to Air Cleaner
6. Disconnect other smog hose from Air Cleaner
7. Unscrew Air Cleaner Bracket bolt to cylinder head on PS of engine
8. Disconnect hose to PVC
9. Disconnect hose to Distributor
10. Disconnect vent hose from cylinder head cover at very back
11. Unclip choke cable
12. Unscrew bolts to cylinder head cover

Then simply remove Air Cleaner Assembly.

I've probably forgotten some steps.

What a pain in the ass!!!
 
if you desmog it you cut out appx. 7 steps out of this, just a thought...:grinpimp:

Simply removing the Gawdamn air cleaner assembly on these rigs is a pain in the ass.

1. Disconnect Air intake hose
2. unscrew carb nut
3. Disconnect 3 vacuum lines at carb
4. Disconnect EGR Modulator diapram from clip
5. Disconnect one smog hose to Air Cleaner
6. Disconnect other smog hose from Air Cleaner
7. Unscrew Air Cleaner Bracket bolt to cylinder head on PS of engine
8. Disconnect hose to PVC
9. Disconnect hose to Distributor
10. Disconnect vent hose from cylinder head cover at very back
11. Unclip choke cable
12. Unscrew bolts to cylinder head cover

Then simply remove Air Cleaner Assembly.

I've probably forgotten some steps.

What a pain in the ass!!!
 
Removing a bumper when the carriage bolts slip, and you don't have a grinder.

Anything to do with rust!!!!!
 
Replacing the hose for the rear window washer, when it cracks above the headliner.
 
not so much difficult but more of a killjoy:

taking the utmost care while replacing vacuum lines yet still snapping off the very brittle plastic nipples on the VSVs or VTVs...especially the ones on the t-stat housing.
 
Trying to get bushings out while doing a lift WITHOUT a torch and angle grinder. I learned this doing my brothers before I did mine. Pulled an allnighter, 20 hrs. Glad I did his before I did mine!!
 
Trying to get bushings out while doing a lift WITHOUT a torch and angle grinder. I learned this doing my brothers before I did mine. Pulled an allnighter, 20 hrs. Glad I did his before I did mine!!

After 2 hours, I gave up and took mine to a shop. IIRC, with all the rust and seized stuff, it took THEM 14 hrs!!!!! They only charged for 8 or 9 though.
 
Oil Pan Gasket-

I don't know what sort of substance that cork turns into after being sandwiched between the pan and block for decades, but I bet it could stop armour-piercing rounds if you had enough of it. After a little while, chiseling the old material off just isn't that fun anymore.
 
Cotter pins

Rusted cotter pins in place you cant get to and they break:doh: just short enough you cant grab them but too long to allow nut removal
 
The short heater hose on the driver side near the firewall on a 60 ( I actually gave up and left the old one - not like that will comeback to haunt me :rolleyes:)

Replacing the check valve going to the exhaust pipe.

Both of these are jobs that should take less than 5 minutes, in theory. In reality, they take forever.

Which reminds me of an old joke. . .A kid asks his dad about the difference between theory and reality. The dad instructs his son to ask his mother and sister if they would sleep with a stranger for $500,000. The kids asks both and informs his father that both said they would sleep with a stranger for $500,000. To which the father replies:

"You see son, In theory, we have a million bucks upstairs. In reality, all we have are two whores.

So, the moral of the story is: those two little FJ60 projects are whores.
 
Removing the rear liftgate... Actually, taking it off the hinges, but leaving it on to pop a dent out of the roof... Then trying to line those bolts back up with the hinges/ liftgate with the shocks still on it all...

Pain in the arse...
 
Intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Took me a couple days AND IT STILL LEAKS. I smelled like RTV for weeks, what a horrible smell.
 
The short heater hose on the driver side near the firewall on a 60 ( I actually gave up and left the old one - not like that will comeback to haunt me :rolleyes:)

.


Heh, Heh--This one is a bitch and it will come back to haunt you. Not only that, but its 1/2 inch unlike all the other 5/8 hoses in the system.
 
Those freaking heater hoses this summer:mad:
I would fix one and within a day another would blow I went threw almost 20 feet of goodrich 5/8 (and the smaller ones) hose this summer.
 
Oil Pan Gasket-

I don't know what sort of substance that cork turns into after being sandwiched between the pan and block for decades, but I bet it could stop armour-piercing rounds if you had enough of it. After a little while, chiseling the old material off just isn't that fun anymore.

I used jasco paint stripper on that one! Spread it on, leave it fpr a couple hours, and it comes of like buttah! Just don't get it on your skin!
Bryan
 

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