Decent on the cheap!?

[chicago]

The project here is a 76 FJ40. Will be a rock rig only.
Will be doing a rattle can paint job on her.
The tub is free, after the sheet metal work it finished Ill be working on the frame clean up.
The question is, what relatively in expensive rattle can paint to use for the fire wall, under tub, frame, axles etc.
I know the IPOR stuff is the best, but its spendy.
This is a wheeler and not a show rig.
My question is what will look decent, provide good protection at a decent price.

Thanks in advance!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

No one has any experience with this type of body work that they can recommend a product?

 

[tomcolins]

I'd say, if you didn't want to spend $$$ on paint shop quality paints (of which there are a few good ones to choose) maybe your best bet would be an industrial Enamel instead of your garden-variety Krylon or Rust-oleum? These seem to come in pretty strong (vivid) colors, so maybe less selection for your tastes, but if you want a safety yellow firewall you are golden!

Don't know any brand names other than the versions offered by the above but have seen many around.

Short of the lamest, cheapest spraypaint, I'd think you'd be ok no matter what paint-quality wise. From what I can tell in terms of rattle can stuff, it's how good the spray nozzle is at giving even coverage and not clogging and spitting globs 2/3rds of the way through the can that counts.

Maybe you can buy one "nice" can and pirate the nozzle for the cheaper paint? though I'm questioning that as I type it... seems like it'd be hard to keep clean from can to can...

Since it's a rattle can, you can always go back and touch up your chips, in keeping with the quick and dirty spirit of your approach!

good luck

 

[chicago]

I'd say, if you didn't want to spend $$$ on paint shop quality paints (of which there are a few good ones to choose) maybe your best bet would be an industrial Enamel instead of your garden-variety Krylon or Rust-oleum? These seem to come in pretty strong (vivid) colors, so maybe less selection for your tastes, but if you want a safety yellow firewall you are golden!

Don't know any brand names other than the versions offered by the above but have seen many around.

Short of the lamest, cheapest spraypaint, I'd think you'd be ok no matter what paint-quality wise. From what I can tell in terms of rattle can stuff, it's how good the spray nozzle is at giving even coverage and not clogging and spitting globs 2/3rds of the way through the can that counts.

Maybe you can buy one "nice" can and pirate the nozzle for the cheaper paint? though I'm questioning that as I type it... seems like it'd be hard to keep clean from can to can...

Since it's a rattle can, you can always go back and touch up your chips, in keeping with the quick and dirty spirit of your approach!

good luck

Thanks for the reply.
I had NO idea that there were different nozzles for the rattle can apps. That is interesting news.
So in your opinion, id be best served to spring for some decent auto paint in lieu of the can?

Thanks

Chicago

 

[tomcolins]

Yeah, check your local art supply stores. They sell sparaypaint for muralists/graffiti artists with a whole range of caps for different spray patterns. + you can buy the nozzles alone and put them on whatever can you like!

Or well, if you have an air compressor or access to one, a gallon of single stage enamel (in your choice of color) from DuPont + thinner, PrepCleen and rags is like $100. Certainly could spend more, but 15 cans of spraypaint even at $3.00 each, is already close to $50. $5.00 and you're over. IMO, the automotive paint is the better route.

I used a 15 year old Craftsman 20 gal compressor with a cheap in-line filter to keep the oil/condensation out and shot a '62 jeep in my back yard with good results. even with a cheap paint pot.

Not opposed to a rattle can paint job at all, but for a large area and a truck you are working hard on, maybe economy and product conspire toward shooting it?

Plus, you may find you are stoked w. the results and not as bad a painter as you might think (no offense if you already are a decent painter).

If I misread, and you are only doing a small section, I'd buy the good stuff in cans. They do sell re-fillable aerosol cans that you can put whatever paint into, but I've never messed w. them. seems like maybe more $$$ for the little bit it would do... Small repairs only?

Good luck either way. send photos!

 

[chicago]

Yeah, check your local art supply stores. They sell sparaypaint for muralists/graffiti artists with a whole range of caps for different spray patterns. + you can buy the nozzles alone and put them on whatever can you like!

Or well, if you have an air compressor or access to one, a gallon of single stage enamel (in your choice of color) from DuPont + thinner, PrepCleen and rags is like $100. Certainly could spend more, but 15 cans of spraypaint even at $3.00 each, is already close to $50. $5.00 and you're over. IMO, the automotive paint is the better route.

I used a 15 year old Craftsman 20 gal compressor with a cheap in-line filter to keep the oil/condensation out and shot a '62 jeep in my back yard with good results. even with a cheap paint pot.

Not opposed to a rattle can paint job at all, but for a large area and a truck you are working hard on, maybe economy and product conspire toward shooting it?

Plus, you may find you are stoked w. the results and not as bad a painter as you might think (no offense if you already are a decent painter).

If I misread, and you are only doing a small section, I'd buy the good stuff in cans. They do sell re-fillable aerosol cans that you can put whatever paint into, but I've never messed w. them. seems like maybe more $$$ for the little bit it would do... Small repairs only?

Good luck either way. send photos!

Thanks for the info brotha!
Not a painter by any means. I do have a whole FJ40 to paint though. Have the 20 gal compressor, and I could pick up a gun...
Not that I cant do it, but Id like to NOT have to do a formal shoot for scratch and scrape repair. Although it would take a TON less time it would seem to do it with the auto paint.
I shot my 87 Grand Am when I was a kid back in Chicago. Came out okay.

There is an auto paint shop in town...maybe Ill stop in there and see what the damage is.

 

[cruiser88]

just get a 15 $ gun, sealer(if you live in a rust belt),some crossfire hardener, thinner and Rusto. You dont need the hardener but it helps with the curing time, better finish and it will make it more durable. I just guessed on how much I put in....maybe 3 cap fulls, my gun was only halfway full.

Spray and be happy.

Dont forget to wash what you are painting in Dawn to remove grease that you may have missed or just use a tack rag/solution from Napa.

that my freind is a cheap paint job......cheaper than rattle cans cause wall mart sells the paint for like 26 bucks

 

[chicago]

just get a 15 $ gun, sealer(if you live in a rust belt),some crossfire hardener, thinner and Rusto. You dont need the hardener but it helps with the curing time, better finish and it will make it more durable. I just guessed on how much I put in....maybe 3 cap fulls, my gun was only halfway full.

Spray and be happy.

Dont forget to wash what you are painting in Dawn to remove grease that you may have missed or just use a tack rag/solution from Napa.

that my freind is a cheap paint job......cheaper than rattle cans cause wall mart sells the paint for like 26 bucks

You'd need a primer coat, right?
Might go the spray route.
Would I have to visqueen a paint room in my garage, or just cover all the stuff that I DONT want overspray on?

 

[cruiser88]

ppppssssssssssst well of course

If you use your garage and after you clean and cover everything coat the floor down with water to help keep the dust on the down low

You'd need a primer coat, right?
Might go the spray route.
Would I have to visqueen a paint room in my garage, or just cover all the stuff that I DONT want overspray on?

 

[tomcolins]

How did all this turn out?

Been a while. That means you're done, right?


any photos?

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Rustoleum makes that "professional" coating in limited colors. It dries much harder than their regular crap. Available in a few colors in big cans at HD. I have used it on bumpers and frame horns and s*** that I just wanted to cover with something. 2 coats of Rustoleum primer and two or three coats of the flat black. Holds up ok.

 

[n2hcky]

Here is my copy/paste from another cheap paint thread



I have used KIRKER paints before with really good results.
I know a lot of folks will say it is **** but I have sprayed all brands and types and this stuff really surprised me.
I did a black BC/CC and it sanded and buff out slick and deep. 4 years later it still looks good.

Kits & Special's From Smart Shoppers At Low Low Prices

This is where I bought mine but it available a few other places....just not as a complete kit.

By the way......if you ever need some epoxy primer "THEIRS ROCKS"
Unlike most epoxy...this would sands easy if needed.