Hey guys,
Thanks for all the input.
FYI- Just a reminder...
4x4s and
Landcruisers are all new to me...
There is soooo much to learn.
I tightenened up the U-Bolts and shackle bolts. They seemed to be loose. Instant improvement
What should the U-Bolts be torqued to? ft-lbs shackle bolts?
I'll still go in for an alignment etc... I'll pull the stabalizer out this week and check it.
I notice that when I'm braking there's movement in the steering wheel (left-right-left-right) The intensity increases in sinc with how hard I brake. Especially while going downhill) It seems like it is coming from the drivers side. (Its a RHD) Do you think this is related to the death wobble? Same sort of feeling in the steering wheel but not nearly as intense..
Thanks again
For those who wanted to see pics... Here they are.
When you're braking, and you get a slight turn of the steering wheel to one side, that is called "bump steer" and it is from poor steering rod angles. The plane the drag link is operating in is too far from parallel to the tie rod. This is common in lifted trucks and is often corrected for by using a longer pitman arm - but these don't typically exist for Land Cruisers.
As far as your death wobble goes - a steering stabilizer only "band aids" a much larger problem. If the steering stabilizer is worn out, it will allow the steering feedback to be more of a problem. The best location for a steering stabilizer is in-line with the tie rod, and not the drag link as it appears on most vehicles.
I have removed the steering stabilizer from some of the my trail trucks with not noticeable steering problems - but I generally keep things well maintained since I have a well equipped shop at my disposal.
If you have 4" of lift - and I am assuming you mean combined lift (tires, springs, shackles and tires) - then you probably have about 2.5" over original factory height. In any situation where a lift spring is used and a longer shackle has been installed, you will need to correct your caster angle. Adding a few degrees over the stock factory angle is a good idea. Have it measured at an alignment place and then correct it to around 2.5 to 4 degrees.
In my experience, which is fairly extensive, other common causes of death wobble can be related to: the need for a knuckle service (including new king pin bearings and adjusting the wheel bearings), a defective tire(s), a defective rim(s), loose front end bolts/u-bolts/fasteners, mal-adjusted tie rod ends, poorly adjusted wheel bearings, worn out bushings.... and the list goes on.
Start with tightening bolts, shackles, u-bolts, tie rod ends (to factory spec), and checking your wheel bearings and king pin bearings. You can also try rotating your front tires to the rear and the rears to the front.
In my old FJ45 (SOA, 36s, 350 4 wheel discs etc...) it was a one-finger on the steering wheel at 120 kph kind of ride until I put on a cheap set of tires and rims of unknown origin - after that - anything above 30 kph was frightening and 40 kph was uncontrollable (turned around, went home, and binned the offending parts).
hth, John
Driving down the road, 60 kph, hit a bump, the whole front end shakes like hell (SEVERE understatement), steeringwheel rips out of my hand, gear down and almost go off the road. 
DIE!!!
