Dave's Cruiser Questions (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJ Noob
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- Thread starter
- #102
@Rice thanks...I’ll ask away once I get off my phone and get the computer back.
@NCFJ no worries... I can dish it out just as well as I can take it, usually once you’ve been lulled into a false sense of security
Speaking of unmolested classics... I see this from my kitchen window every day. It belongs to the 80-something year old neighbor. I’ve never seen anyone else in the family take any interest in it. I’m not even exactly sure what year or model it is, but I want it more and more every day.
@NCFJ no worries... I can dish it out just as well as I can take it, usually once you’ve been lulled into a false sense of security
Speaking of unmolested classics... I see this from my kitchen window every day. It belongs to the 80-something year old neighbor. I’ve never seen anyone else in the family take any interest in it. I’m not even exactly sure what year or model it is, but I want it more and more every day.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Looks to be a 58. That one I would RestoMod. In stock form those huge engines were gas hogs and a bit of a slug for the size. They also have a pretty sloppy suspension. They go for a whole lot more money with a modern engine and suspension. They are also a whole lot more fun to drive. Biggest expense on something like that would be a full re chrome. Probably in the $30K range just for all the exterior and interior chrome and doubtful you'd get that investment back. Hard to de chrome one though as the bumpers are a huge part of that. Once done they are over the top cool.
- Thread starter
- #104
I had no idea re-chrome could cost that much. Just one more reason I don’t care for too much chrome.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Very few re chrome shops left out there due to EPA regulations. I am sure it can be done cheaper but top shelf chrome is big money.
- Thread starter
- #106
I took the top plate off the transmission I pulled out of the project truck. Just wanted to take a look to see what kind of shape it was in. It looked pretty good, except for 1st gear. Most of the teeth were chewed up a bit on the leading edge(?). What is this a sign of?
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Someone grinding gears! Nbd imo. You can polish off the burrs if youd like.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Trips 
- Thread starter
- #109
Does the sound go away when u depress the clutch slightly? If so get abit of grease on your pivot on your fork.
I’ll definitely give it a shot. Thanks for the suggestion.
- Thread starter
- #112
Alright folks, here's a few questions for the more experienced/knowledgeable. I've been searching MUD and various other places on the information super-highway, but didn't come up with definitive answers. I took a few days off this week to work around the house and this is what I've got rolling around in my head....
1) Am I looking at potential fitment issues on the project truck if I bump up to 35" tires (actual size is 34.6" for the ones I'm considering)? The truck currently has the standard OME 2.5" lift. I've got some add-a-leafs arriving to take it from a "light/medium" to a "heavy/heavy" suspension. Haven't pulled a wheel yet to check the backspacing, but it looks about "average".
2) V8 positioning; Since I'm using the stock trans and trans crossmember, then to a Ranger OD and then the V8, the stock trans mounting position will dictate where the V8 lands and in turn the motor mounts.....correct? That should put me in the ball-park, but then what do I need to consider for the fine-tuning...e.g. motor angle towards the trans?
3) Transmission; I was considering a rebuild for the sake of just starting fresh. I'm re-considering due to the $$$ and time involved. Other than some grinding on 1st gear, I don't see any indications of issues or abuse. Now I'm thinking just replace seals and gaskets, clean it up, and see what happens. Thoughts?
- The body is kinda rough and the wiring harness was thrashed and the odometer read 249K miles, but all indicators are that mechanically, somebody was taking pretty decent care of the truck. I have no clue if the drivetrain is even the original. The engine was disgusting due to a failed gasket on the side panel, but the compression was good. Another MUD member bought it and after a pressure wash and new gaskets/seals, the motor immediately went into his 1960s era FJ40. It's up in Rhode Island now running strong. I feel like if the motor was maintained and doing that good, then my chances of having a garbage trans are reduced.
1) Am I looking at potential fitment issues on the project truck if I bump up to 35" tires (actual size is 34.6" for the ones I'm considering)? The truck currently has the standard OME 2.5" lift. I've got some add-a-leafs arriving to take it from a "light/medium" to a "heavy/heavy" suspension. Haven't pulled a wheel yet to check the backspacing, but it looks about "average".
2) V8 positioning; Since I'm using the stock trans and trans crossmember, then to a Ranger OD and then the V8, the stock trans mounting position will dictate where the V8 lands and in turn the motor mounts.....correct? That should put me in the ball-park, but then what do I need to consider for the fine-tuning...e.g. motor angle towards the trans?
3) Transmission; I was considering a rebuild for the sake of just starting fresh. I'm re-considering due to the $$$ and time involved. Other than some grinding on 1st gear, I don't see any indications of issues or abuse. Now I'm thinking just replace seals and gaskets, clean it up, and see what happens. Thoughts?
- The body is kinda rough and the wiring harness was thrashed and the odometer read 249K miles, but all indicators are that mechanically, somebody was taking pretty decent care of the truck. I have no clue if the drivetrain is even the original. The engine was disgusting due to a failed gasket on the side panel, but the compression was good. Another MUD member bought it and after a pressure wash and new gaskets/seals, the motor immediately went into his 1960s era FJ40. It's up in Rhode Island now running strong. I feel like if the motor was maintained and doing that good, then my chances of having a garbage trans are reduced.
1. Probably, but it really depends on the wheels. Common rub point is the inner front fenders below the turn signals, but you may be able to get away with it if you change those lowest bolts to pan head instead of hex-head.
2. Correct, motor placement will be dictated by the trans in that case. Motor angle depends on the fuel type, and directly impacts the rear driveline angle. Measure what it is right now, and try to match it. IIRC 2-5* towards the rear is about right.
3. How much are you going to want to pull the trans again if you find out it's bad in a few months? That's a call you're going to have to make for yourself. In general, toyota manual transmissions are super reliable.
2. Correct, motor placement will be dictated by the trans in that case. Motor angle depends on the fuel type, and directly impacts the rear driveline angle. Measure what it is right now, and try to match it. IIRC 2-5* towards the rear is about right.
3. How much are you going to want to pull the trans again if you find out it's bad in a few months? That's a call you're going to have to make for yourself. In general, toyota manual transmissions are super reliable.
No idea on the V8 swap but the rear light you installed shows me two things: 1 you like beer. 2 You like great beer and know how to pace yourself.......High Life!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #115
What is the recommended replacement interval for the FJ60 fuel filter? Every oil change, every XXX miles, whenever it looks like it's dirty?
I looked through the maintenance manual and it doesn't mention the fuel filter.
I looked through the maintenance manual and it doesn't mention the fuel filter.
I don't know. I would change it when i did a tune-up, and would carry a spare just in case.
I think most people wait until the ownership of the vehicle has changed hands several times, by that point the owner's manual is usually lost. I'm pretty sure Toyota figured there was no need to even mention it because of this.
- Thread starter
- #118
It has been about 3.5k miles and looking good and new up until I checked the other day. Suddenly it’s brown and dirty. I also recently ran the fuel level down lower than I normally do between filling up. I guess I’ll get in there and take a look for rust sediment. A spare filter and extra fuses is about all I use the glovebox for!
Yup. It's worth noting I had a pretty clean gas tank. Get that tank flushed out!
- Thread starter
- #120
Ok, manifold gasket replacement is complete. Replaced some missing bolts along the way to seal everything up, installed a new city racer carb insulator plate, and an oem exhaust flange gasket.
Overall she seems a bit quieter and more responsive HOWEVER, the EGR cooler pipe is leaking where it joins the big nut at the cooler box. During disassembly, the pipe just fell out. The nut wasn’t holding it. I’m assuming that’s not how it was designed and that it should be “sealed”.
Besides de-smogging; any ideas on how to seal it up? My first thought is to pack some exhaust patch putty in around it and call it good...yay or nay?
Overall she seems a bit quieter and more responsive HOWEVER, the EGR cooler pipe is leaking where it joins the big nut at the cooler box. During disassembly, the pipe just fell out. The nut wasn’t holding it. I’m assuming that’s not how it was designed and that it should be “sealed”.
Besides de-smogging; any ideas on how to seal it up? My first thought is to pack some exhaust patch putty in around it and call it good...yay or nay?
