Is there regular maintenance that can be done to keep working actuators from getting beyond a fixable state?
Dave's 80 Rehab
- Thread starter Sporin
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well, if o-ring kits were available then that woul;d be the thing to change regularly. I've been thinking of pulling my 1 year old actuators out just to size out their replacements.
its tough to prevent the oring from failing but since rick fixed mine, i try to engage them at least once a month in the mall parking lot, yes here in texas they have some dirt parking lots.
actually, the truck sees dirt every weekend now as i throw the dirtbike on the back. so, engage them as often as you can. it will help but not prevent them from seizing.
Sporin
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- #204
The first 200+k miles, my truck was owned by a Doc in NH who, as near as we can tell, never used the lockers... probably what led to their current condition.
I've been watching the classifieds for a good deal on functional ones, and have considered the Downey cable conversion as well. I've exchanged emails with Downey and they've made some updates and improvements to their kits to address some fo the early issue.
Still, I won't go that route unless it's a last resort.
I've been watching the classifieds for a good deal on functional ones, and have considered the Downey cable conversion as well. I've exchanged emails with Downey and they've made some updates and improvements to their kits to address some fo the early issue.
Still, I won't go that route unless it's a last resort.
Dave while Mkie did an excellent job wiring my elockers in the fj62 I had a hard time following twhat he did with the relays and what did what . I got it for a second when he was wiring it and explaining it to me but ask me today forget it. I had them wired off the aux battery and when my charging system went down on the trail we were scratching our heads until we figured out hte battery was dead. granted the wiring harness is sort of built into the fzj80 and you have acess to some great 80 series guru's (nuts
but to make a long story short if I were to do the toyota lockers again I would do the cable locker conversion. to me the least amount of electrics in my truck the better.
if it ends up being the cheaper route I would do it if its cheaper to just fix yours then do that in that the system is already there.
not really much help
jason
but to make a long story short if I were to do the toyota lockers again I would do the cable locker conversion. to me the least amount of electrics in my truck the better.if it ends up being the cheaper route I would do it if its cheaper to just fix yours then do that in that the system is already there.
not really much help
jason
Sporin
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- #206
The cable lockers would be $250 for each end and there's a good spot to mount the levers on the 80's big center console.
If all else fails, I may go that route. Toyota's overseas came with cable lockers from the factory so it's not without precedent.
I'm happy to futz with the electric ones all summer, but there are 2 things I want to have done before Fall.... front axle rebuild, and functioning lockers.
If all else fails, I may go that route. Toyota's overseas came with cable lockers from the factory so it's not without precedent.
I'm happy to futz with the electric ones all summer, but there are 2 things I want to have done before Fall.... front axle rebuild, and functioning lockers.
I'm not aware of OEM cable actuators for the 80 series but if they exist then I'd definitely use those over the Downey crap.
I personally would fix the truck as designed. If you get another 16 years out of them then it really isn't all that expensive.
I personally would fix the truck as designed. If you get another 16 years out of them then it really isn't all that expensive.
well I found a place that sells metric o-rings. I've got to move up the actuator seal kit on the todo list as I have a 97 out back that I want to go through the actruators and reseal them.
That's correct. There's no way there would be enough room on the side of the front locker to go with a manual cable.
Rick, by "O-ring" I assume you mean that big one (about 2-1/2" diameter) that is supposed to keep water out of the actual motor. Seals the little "can". I've pulled both of mine apart, it's a bit scary as the tiny brushes go flying, but once you get over the initial scare it's not too bad. I tried several places to get replacement O-rings, but I couldn't find them. I'm sure you have better sources than I did. I put mine back together, properly greased, then put a bead of silicone caulk over the seam. Seems to have helped, mine still engage now, I try to use them when we get nasty snowstorms.
I have an online source for metric O-rings. I just need to pull apart my 1 year old actuators to get a good measurement. I think there are three O-Rings. One on the motor and one on the gear box for sure.
When the one on the motor fails it usually causes the magnets to break free, which is what happened to my rear actuator. When the one on the gear box fails it causes issues with the bushings and contacts on that gear.
I have hopes of putting together a seal kit so you can replace them regularly and hopefully stop the failures all together.
When the one on the motor fails it usually causes the magnets to break free, which is what happened to my rear actuator. When the one on the gear box fails it causes issues with the bushings and contacts on that gear.
I have hopes of putting together a seal kit so you can replace them regularly and hopefully stop the failures all together.
I think that's an excellent idea. It's too bad that Toyota doesn't sell these O-rings separately, but I guess they don't intend for anyone to tear the actuators apart.
Sporin
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- #214
Question for you guys who know about this stuff... is it possible to "plug" the hole (or holes) left by pulling the actuator so that the truck is still drivable while they are being rebuilt?
Is there a freeze plug or some other such thing? I'd love to pull them off and get them on the workbench but with my limited time lately I know it will be a while before I get them back on and I need to use the truck a couple of times a week.
Thoughts?
Is there a freeze plug or some other such thing? I'd love to pull them off and get them on the workbench but with my limited time lately I know it will be a while before I get them back on and I need to use the truck a couple of times a week.
Thoughts?
On the front, it wouldn't be too hard. I wouldn't use a freeze-plug, it may be too hard to get back out later. Here's what it looks like without the actuator installed:
You could fab up a block-off plate out of sheet metal or maybe even scrap wood, slip it over the 2 studs and put the nuts back on. Note there are a couple of short dowels you'll have to provide clearance for on the plate too. Smear some RTV on the plate before you put it on to seal it well, should be fine.
I can't remember what the rear one looks like exactly, but I think it can be removed without leaving an opening in the housing. Rick will know.
You could fab up a block-off plate out of sheet metal or maybe even scrap wood, slip it over the 2 studs and put the nuts back on. Note there are a couple of short dowels you'll have to provide clearance for on the plate too. Smear some RTV on the plate before you put it on to seal it well, should be fine.
I can't remember what the rear one looks like exactly, but I think it can be removed without leaving an opening in the housing. Rick will know.
Here you go, expandable rubber plugs.
Petersen Products Company: T-Handle Expandable Rubber Plugs 1/2" to 4"
Petersen Products Company: T-Handle Expandable Rubber Plugs 1/2" to 4"
the rear is a round hole also but it comes in from the side. A flat plate with some drilled holes would block it off just fine. Just use some of that FPIG around the hole and you would be fine.
you won't hasve to remove this plate for testing as you can plug the actuator into the harness and check it's motion out of the diff.
you won't hasve to remove this plate for testing as you can plug the actuator into the harness and check it's motion out of the diff.
Sporin
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- #219
I guess my battery drain isn't as bad as I thought. No problem leaving the truck for a full week without driving it, starts right up, volt needle showing normal.
I guess 2+weeks in the dead of winter without starting is to be avoided but not much danger in that now.
Need to call my exhaust place and make an appointment, my muffler is pretty shot now as that split gets wider and wider.
I guess 2+weeks in the dead of winter without starting is to be avoided but not much danger in that now.
Need to call my exhaust place and make an appointment, my muffler is pretty shot now as that split gets wider and wider.
Sporin
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- #220
With Sara away I've been racking up the miles on the 80 and quite enjoying it. Sure it's big and loud but it goes done the road reasonably well, and maintains 65mph just fine.
Turns out the cruise control even works...and well!
Had one wheel flair finally come off (it's been loose, dside rear door). Not sure I'll bother putting it back on.
Got 12.5-13 mpg the last 3 tank fulls. Going about 200 miles (corrected) between full and 1/4 where I top it up.
Still haven't replaced the muffler, need to do that next week.
Turns out the cruise control even works...and well!
Had one wheel flair finally come off (it's been loose, dside rear door). Not sure I'll bother putting it back on.
Got 12.5-13 mpg the last 3 tank fulls. Going about 200 miles (corrected) between full and 1/4 where I top it up.
Still haven't replaced the muffler, need to do that next week.