Dave's 80 Rehab
- Thread starter Sporin
- Start date
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Tall is good- I hate it when yo have to "lower" yourself to get into a regular car, Tell her she can see over stonewall and hedges better in the 80
good job Dave. An axle rebuild, can I watch?
Sporin
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- Thread starter
- #186
Got some of the headliner cleaned up today. A few more miles of driving around. Quite a jump for Sara and Jack to get in but with practice they are getting better. Tried the old "Sliders make great steps" line but the CFO has decreed that truck expenses be limited to maintenance and fixes for now.
Got 11.4mpg (corrected) after the spring meeting trip. Filled up at half a tank this week and was at 13.5 (corrected) so I'm thinking that's pretty decent considering the lift and tires.
Next project: Locker actuator access and repair.
Got 11.4mpg (corrected) after the spring meeting trip. Filled up at half a tank this week and was at 13.5 (corrected) so I'm thinking that's pretty decent considering the lift and tires.
Next project: Locker actuator access and repair.
Sporin
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- Thread starter
- #187
Decided to do some recon on my lockers last night. Neither engage, though I know the rear can be done manually.
The area around the rear actuator is an oily mess, the obvious source of my rear diff area drip. It wasn't readily apparent which bolts to remove to pull the whole thing off but I just found a few good threads here on MUD so will take another crack at it this weekend.
Popped open that 4 bolt cover (faces front) and poked around. I believe this is where you can manually engage the locker. All was clean in there. I didn't touch anything and just put it all back together.
Front one clean and I found one connection that was unplugged. If that is all it was I'll be thrilled but I seriously doubt it, too simple and I know the PO spent some time trying to fix this.
May have to enlist my Father in law to help me figure out if the motors are getting the proper current and such, I have no idea how to do that.
Been watching the classifieds for new actuators, but still considering the Downey Cable Conversion as well. I know that many Cruiserfolk think they are sacrilege but posts and PM's with actual owners seem very positive.
Was thinking the truck was riding rough only to find out tire pressure was over 40psi cold. So I lowered that, should smooth out the ride.
Bought some metal putty stuff thinking I'd use it to seal up the crack in my muffler but never bothered. The whole lower half of the front of the can is split to various widths. I think I just need to bite the bullet and get it over to my exhaust guy to have them put in a generic muffler and make sure nothing else is leaking. It's got a bit too much movement as well, which you hear on big bumps, so a few new hangers are in order.
The area around the rear actuator is an oily mess, the obvious source of my rear diff area drip. It wasn't readily apparent which bolts to remove to pull the whole thing off but I just found a few good threads here on MUD so will take another crack at it this weekend.
Popped open that 4 bolt cover (faces front) and poked around. I believe this is where you can manually engage the locker. All was clean in there. I didn't touch anything and just put it all back together.
Front one clean and I found one connection that was unplugged. If that is all it was I'll be thrilled but I seriously doubt it, too simple and I know the PO spent some time trying to fix this.
May have to enlist my Father in law to help me figure out if the motors are getting the proper current and such, I have no idea how to do that.
Been watching the classifieds for new actuators, but still considering the Downey Cable Conversion as well. I know that many Cruiserfolk think they are sacrilege but posts and PM's with actual owners seem very positive.
Was thinking the truck was riding rough only to find out tire pressure was over 40psi cold. So I lowered that, should smooth out the ride.
Bought some metal putty stuff thinking I'd use it to seal up the crack in my muffler but never bothered. The whole lower half of the front of the can is split to various widths. I think I just need to bite the bullet and get it over to my exhaust guy to have them put in a generic muffler and make sure nothing else is leaking. It's got a bit too much movement as well, which you hear on big bumps, so a few new hangers are in order.
You should trade that for Kina's blue 55.
Wrench
One Bashed Up 80
For how long though that is the real question. ;-DI'm an 80 convert, no going back.
there is nothing else to go to with out down grading...well unless Dave goes to a Aussie 78 series
yup just stir'in the pot
Sporin
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- Thread starter
- #193
He only truck I would replace the 80 with is either a newer, nicer 80, or (pipe dream) a 70 series.
Neither is in the cards, financially, and won't be barring lucky numbers.
Honestly, I don't think I've ever been this pleased, overall, with any of my previous trucks. They all had things I loved about them, and things I didn't love. This one is suiting everything I need and want. The family loves driving around in it, and it's comfortable for those drives. It's built big, it has lockers (once I get them working), big meats, and plenty of lift. It can do all the yard duty and other "truck work" I require.. it's just about perfect.
Neither is in the cards, financially, and won't be barring lucky numbers.
Honestly, I don't think I've ever been this pleased, overall, with any of my previous trucks. They all had things I loved about them, and things I didn't love. This one is suiting everything I need and want. The family loves driving around in it, and it's comfortable for those drives. It's built big, it has lockers (once I get them working), big meats, and plenty of lift. It can do all the yard duty and other "truck work" I require.. it's just about perfect.
Did someone say they want to buy a 70 series? Ears are ringing.....
I'll bolt a hood scoop on mine. We have a deal?
Wrench
One Bashed Up 80
WOW! Why can't we get rigs like that!haha! soooooo far out of my budget it's laughable. Someday though.
My dream Cruiser fwiw...
Dave, the locker most likely needs to be pulled apart. I spent a couple days at Rick's watching him dissect mine. We took some pics of the failed area (a rubber O ring seal) and the damage this caused. I am not sure if he ever posted them. Maybe he still has em. Basically, the o ring fails, crud gets in and the mechanics of the actuator seize. It can be taken apart, sanded down, rebuilt and put back together. For me? Very confusing, best to have a partner with you for 2nd opinions.
Ya, it's usually water inside the actuator. Those things are kinda tricky to R&R. I've done a few now, bring it down, we'll get you fixed up.
Actually R&R is pretty simple. Plug the actuator into the harness while outside the housing and home it to the unlocked position. Then reach in the housings and slide the rack all the way passenger. Install actuator.
Peepers actuator had two problems. It had dirty contacts on the large gear so the motor would not drive and the bushing at the end of that gear shaft was binding when the actuator was assembled in the housing.
That bushing problem was hard to find as out of the housing the actuator worked like a champ, installed, it would work only some of the time.
Now my two actuators were junk. To far gone to do anything with so they got replaced. Hope your's are fixable as the actuators are GD expensive.
Peepers actuator had two problems. It had dirty contacts on the large gear so the motor would not drive and the bushing at the end of that gear shaft was binding when the actuator was assembled in the housing.
That bushing problem was hard to find as out of the housing the actuator worked like a champ, installed, it would work only some of the time.
Now my two actuators were junk. To far gone to do anything with so they got replaced. Hope your's are fixable as the actuators are GD expensive.