I like the 5-switch set-up, as well...
Where did you get a switch bezel that fits in the ashtray cutout?
Dash Surround Replacement Solution
- Thread starter S&S1stCruzer
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I like the 5-switch set-up, as well...
Where did you get a switch bezel that fits in the ashtray cutout?
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- #122
They are individual pieces 2 ends and 3 centers that interlock. Google carling switch modules and I'm sure you find a retailer.
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- #124
Here is the 1/8" version, with 3 large cut outs. (still need to fillet the edges etc...) The question is how tall to make them. Currently they are as tall as the ash try cut out. Which I don't think is tall enough if you where going to screw on a thinner panel to mount the switches on. But you really can't go to much taller on the left side because you'll run into the heater controls.
Hmmm...if you end up using carling switches, with modules the they would not need the second mounting panel. Since they pretty much fit in the stock ash try opening. If you use just the switch and mount it to second panel that might work but need to see how deep of material the carling switches need to sit in so the tangs/clips hold them in place. That maybe an issue using 1/8" or smaller thickness.
What do you think?
I would be happy if the carling switches fit into the carling end-middle-end bezel assemblies that then fit into the screw-on panels...
Probably the best, in my opinion, would be to have screw-on panels in these flavors:
1. solid - no cut outs
2. cut for stock switches + aftermarket round power (cig) plugs
3. cut for Carling bezel, sized to accept as many Carling positions as would fit
4. MAYBE a version combining 3 carlings (= to a ARB switch set) plus 1-2 round power?
This would give people maximum flexibility with the fewest number of panel variations. If each of the 3 "optional" positions (not the heater controls) were the same size any screw-on panel could be used in any position.
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- #126
Ok, let me make a custom a panel for you.
Your last post has some great suggestions, but which of those are you looking for personally.
I'll use 1/8" plate, get the heater control shelf added. (also with 1/8" plate the controls will be closer to surface plane).
Will do 3 cut out sections that a secondary panel can can be bolted/screwed on to the main panel.
(Might be able to just do 2 cut out sections. The bottom one would be a really long unless the heater controls make that side of the panel slighty shorter height wise. Also depend on the thickness of the secondary panel, you don't want it flex on the long run across the dashpanel.)
The 3 cut outs on the main panel would be sized to accept carling switch modules.
The secondary panel will be sized just slightly larger than the main cut outs (carling switch modules sized)
For the secondary panel mounting do you care if it mounts just on top creating another layer/stacked. I thickness of the secondary panel will be as thin as possible but stiff enough to hold the switches.
What cut outs do you want the secondary panel in any at the moment? The end user would be able to customize this with no real difficulty since the secondary panel would pretty easy to cut using a dremel, jig saw, or drill.
Let me know!
Don't make me a custom panel. I will buy or not once you have gone into production... I'm just trying to help in the design giving my opinions... what I want might not be what others are interested in. My $.02 is worth just that...
In any case I wouldn't mind if the screw-on panels were screwed to the face of the overall panel, resulting in a step-up... It would need to be larger enough to be able to fit the screws of course.
Again: if you make all 3 holes (the 4th being the heater controls) large enough to fit Carling switches then I think that gives you maximum flexibility with the least amount of work (the slot under the heater controls would be wider than the 2 stacked slots on the right side).
PERSONALLY I would want to fit the stock switches (probably below the heater controls) in a screw-on panel that you provide, and then in the other 2 panels have 1 power/cig plug and the rest Carling switches (3 for the ARBs, 1 for fog lights, 1 for interior lights etc... I don't know how many would fit using the Carling bezel but I imagine more than if you cut the individual holes for the switches.
I hope this helps...
In any case I wouldn't mind if the screw-on panels were screwed to the face of the overall panel, resulting in a step-up... It would need to be larger enough to be able to fit the screws of course.
Again: if you make all 3 holes (the 4th being the heater controls) large enough to fit Carling switches then I think that gives you maximum flexibility with the least amount of work (the slot under the heater controls would be wider than the 2 stacked slots on the right side).
PERSONALLY I would want to fit the stock switches (probably below the heater controls) in a screw-on panel that you provide, and then in the other 2 panels have 1 power/cig plug and the rest Carling switches (3 for the ARBs, 1 for fog lights, 1 for interior lights etc... I don't know how many would fit using the Carling bezel but I imagine more than if you cut the individual holes for the switches.
I hope this helps...
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- #128
1/8 vs 1/4
I looked at the stock switches and was thinking about 1/8" material, then I remembered!
The counter boring i did for a test on the panel left 1/8" material for the stock switch to clip in to. If you revisit post with pics you see that it's not enough material for it set in, so it has some play on the fitment. (not good for an offroad vehicle).
You might say, make the hole smaller, but the truth was I had to file down the edges a bit to get to fit in. Once it was large enough for the clip to pass then it's too large for the switch tightly. Which you can see in the picture.
I don't think 1/8" is will fly as the main panel thickness...if you plan to use stock switches. The Carling switch modules do look like they will work. So that would be one decision to make if someone wanted 1/8" panel.
I looked at the stock switches and was thinking about 1/8" material, then I remembered!
The counter boring i did for a test on the panel left 1/8" material for the stock switch to clip in to. If you revisit post with pics you see that it's not enough material for it set in, so it has some play on the fitment. (not good for an offroad vehicle).
You might say, make the hole smaller, but the truth was I had to file down the edges a bit to get to fit in. Once it was large enough for the clip to pass then it's too large for the switch tightly. Which you can see in the picture.
I don't think 1/8" is will fly as the main panel thickness...if you plan to use stock switches. The Carling switch modules do look like they will work. So that would be one decision to make if someone wanted 1/8" panel.
Wouldn't the switches, stock or Carling, be mounted in the screw-on panels?
If so they could be made specifically for stock switches or Carling switches thickness-wise. And if the Carling switches are actually mounted in a Carling bezel then THAT is what has to fit into the panel rather than the switches themselves... right?
May this is an opportunity for someone to build adapters for wiring Carling switches to the stock harness in place of the stock switches... then you could have panels for the Carlings only...
If so they could be made specifically for stock switches or Carling switches thickness-wise. And if the Carling switches are actually mounted in a Carling bezel then THAT is what has to fit into the panel rather than the switches themselves... right?
May this is an opportunity for someone to build adapters for wiring Carling switches to the stock harness in place of the stock switches... then you could have panels for the Carlings only...
- Thread starter
- #130
Yes, but screw-on panel would need to be 1/4" thick again for them to clip in. So you would have 1/8" main panel and then screw-on panel 1/4" on top it. That might look quite odd.
Stock switches really 1/4" to clip into, a carling switch by itself I need to look at, all measurements were using the carling switch bezel/modules. The Carling bezel/module look like they would clip into a thinner panel as their clips have a progressive tang/clip, so those have a better possibility of working with 1/4" screw on panel.
That would cool I'll have to check that out!
Great info all around, all this will lead to the best solution!
Keep it coming.
After taking some time to read over the last 7 pages to catch up, I am going to subscribe to this thread in hopes that S&S has spent the last month catching up on some family time or putting in some hard OT at work and that this IS NOT a dead thread. I have a friend that has a cnc machine and we have been talking about doing something "like" this, but what you have going on here is very very nice. I do not have anything to add to what has been done to this point, as you have covered many different angles and it appears that you have taken very many different facts (and people's different uses) into consideration.
Good luck, and hopefully you will be able to start a for sale thread soon to start making some money off of your hard work!
Cheers
Good luck, and hopefully you will be able to start a for sale thread soon to start making some money off of your hard work!
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #132
Hey thanks for the interest. Here it is sunday afternoon, got back from easter morning breakfast, the kid is napping along with wife, can't make noise so I retreat to the headphones and the PS3 grand turismo 5, when my blackberry goes off and there is a reply to the thread!
So with your kind post, it has motivated to show what's been going on. I kind of lost the entrepreneurship bug after my seatbracket sales attempted flopped, I'll have to have a merchandise clear out those to recoup, (i guess that's what happens when you buy in bulk and not do a group buy,
)I have 3 OEM style configured panels and 3 alternate versions with the adapter brackets. The shelfing/surround for the heater controls work pretty good, custom made tiny L channel. Of course that panel (the prototype) I left at my inlaws this morning, so pix on that have to come later.
I'm not sure how happy you guys would be, with the way I attached it to the panel, some aluminum to aluminum adhesive. It's been on for couple of days and holding on tight. Not sure how much grief I'll get for that. I wanted to rivet it on but there really isn't enough material to catch the rivet.
Also for the screws that attached panel to the dash I'm trying to make it so you wont have to enlarge your holes on your dash. I grabbed some metal screws that I thought were the right size but ended up, up sizing the hole just a bit. Feels like it's catches on tighter but again don't want to deviate to far from using the stock sizing.
Couple of issues with stock panel:
The cubby hole: 2 solutions to mount so far. 1-glue to the back of the aluminum panel. The cubby hole has nice surround on it anyways it will fine, nice and easy.
2- Use longer screws with a spacer so cubby hole still attaches to the dash in the oem holes but the spacers push it forward to sit flush on the panel. More complicated...who uses it anyways
Ash tray: (I'll update with pix, later)
1- tap and thread a two tiny holes on the back side of the panel. I suppose I could drill through but then you ugly looking setup. I would drill about 1/8" through and try to tap some threads. Use 2 tiny bolts to secure the ash tray. You will be able to open and close it.
Why go through all this trouble? I have know idea? Hope it's worth to somebody, somewhere, sometime.
Here are some pix of the panels.
So while that was in the works, I made for myself, my inlaw and extra one a configuration that worked for us.
7 carling switches on the bottom, 6 on top, 2-12v outlets (out of the way from the shifter) and the moved the stock switches a little closer together.
I would to love to start selling these, but hate to put out an inferior product because it didn't give it enough time. Maybe if one our senior MOD's or a few of the Senior members wants I one. I'll send one there way to try out and get feedback
"7 carling switches on the bottom, 6 on top, 2-12v outlets (out of the way from the shifter) and the moved the stock switches a little closer together."
You have another one of these? Let me know how much you want for it... this is just about perfect for what I had suggested along the way in this thread... price depending of course....
Mark
You have another one of these? Let me know how much you want for it... this is just about perfect for what I had suggested along the way in this thread... price depending of course....
Mark
Well, the only way to figure out if a product has been designed correctly is to field test it. It is my opinion (which is only worth anything to me) that anyone who has followed this thread (and that has half a brain) would come to the following conclusions.
a) You have gone through a very extensive R&D phase.
b) You have given your potential end users multiple opportunities to help decide how the product should be configured (in order to give your customers the most versatility possible which translates into "best bang for your buck").
c) And you went through what appears to be great lengths to find a way to get your product fabricated in a way that is cost effective in order to keep the overall cost down so that you can pass along the savings to your customers.
(a thru c = a person that cares about the product and is looking to provide a quality service to this community)
It would appear to me that now that you now have a dash surround replacement product that we can all fondly nickname "generation 1". (Insert more of my opinion here) I think you should take the leap from tech and start a thread in the for sale world and make a small production run (6-10, whatever it takes to be big enough to be cost effective on the production side of things, but small enough that you don't get stuck with any inventory - maybe even pre-sell them if you have reached the point that you don't want to risk any more overhead) of these gen 1 surrounds, offer them at 10-20% less than you are planning on selling it for when you get to the point that you are happy with your product (because it is obvious that you care about making sure that you offer a solid and user friendly product that will work as advertised) and market it as a test run to see if the product will meet the needs of this community. Make sure that feedback is mandatory with delivery of the product and then sit back and wait. Start the design of Gen 2 from the feedback and then go sell hundreds of dash surrounds at full price and become one of the elite few who make money on this forum vs. most of us who either spend money or dream of spending money.
End of soap box, insert picture of why I care about this product (I am in the process of rebuilding my dash and this product would a very nice addition to my build - so this is where I say "PM sent")
a) You have gone through a very extensive R&D phase.
b) You have given your potential end users multiple opportunities to help decide how the product should be configured (in order to give your customers the most versatility possible which translates into "best bang for your buck").
c) And you went through what appears to be great lengths to find a way to get your product fabricated in a way that is cost effective in order to keep the overall cost down so that you can pass along the savings to your customers.
(a thru c = a person that cares about the product and is looking to provide a quality service to this community)
It would appear to me that now that you now have a dash surround replacement product that we can all fondly nickname "generation 1". (Insert more of my opinion here) I think you should take the leap from tech and start a thread in the for sale world and make a small production run (6-10, whatever it takes to be big enough to be cost effective on the production side of things, but small enough that you don't get stuck with any inventory - maybe even pre-sell them if you have reached the point that you don't want to risk any more overhead) of these gen 1 surrounds, offer them at 10-20% less than you are planning on selling it for when you get to the point that you are happy with your product (because it is obvious that you care about making sure that you offer a solid and user friendly product that will work as advertised) and market it as a test run to see if the product will meet the needs of this community. Make sure that feedback is mandatory with delivery of the product and then sit back and wait. Start the design of Gen 2 from the feedback and then go sell hundreds of dash surrounds at full price and become one of the elite few who make money on this forum vs. most of us who either spend money or dream of spending money.
End of soap box, insert picture of why I care about this product (I am in the process of rebuilding my dash and this product would a very nice addition to my build - so this is where I say "PM sent")
I'm very excited to see this be successful. My overall hope is that you'll be encouraged to make aluminum replacements for both dash panels in FJ60 and FJ62 flavors. The larger gauge support panels would be a nightmare though, I'm sure.
Edit: Just to throw something else out there, I'd love to have one that still holds the ashtray, supports the environmental controls, factory JIS spec switches, and replaces the 62's blank plate (and spare switch hole in the upper right corner) with openings for JIS switches. Then I could support an air compressor, my light up wreath for Christmas (don't laugh, it looks cool), fog lights, driving lights, the switch for my rear blower motor (which was formerly mounted in the OEM center console), and whatever else I'd have installed that I'd want switches for. Then to make it REALLY complicated, a small overhang allowing the switchillumination light to still shine on 'em
Edit: Just to throw something else out there, I'd love to have one that still holds the ashtray, supports the environmental controls, factory JIS spec switches, and replaces the 62's blank plate (and spare switch hole in the upper right corner) with openings for JIS switches. Then I could support an air compressor, my light up wreath for Christmas (don't laugh, it looks cool), fog lights, driving lights, the switch for my rear blower motor (which was formerly mounted in the OEM center console), and whatever else I'd have installed that I'd want switches for. Then to make it REALLY complicated, a small overhang allowing the switchillumination light to still shine on 'em
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I am very interested in this product also !
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- #138
Thanks again guys, well time to take the leap. If your interested here is the link for the merch section of the board.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandis...-fj60-seat-brackets-dash-panel-surrounds.html
I do want to explore 62 dash, just need to find a donor/bench dash to get started. Any more tech questions let start posting on the for mech post.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandis...-fj60-seat-brackets-dash-panel-surrounds.html
I do want to explore 62 dash, just need to find a donor/bench dash to get started. Any more tech questions let start posting on the for mech post.
I'd check with Georg (orangefj45) and see if he has a couple he can contribute to the cause. He restores alot of 60s and 62s.
- Thread starter
- #140
That would great, I hadn't had time to keep an eye out in the sales/parting out threads.