Dash light circuit to tap? (1 Viewer)

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Oct 8, 2014
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Minnesota
Does anyone know offhand which circuit is good to tap for dash lights? I’m installing an e-locker dash switch and would like to have it illuminated at night like the factory switches.

I’m guessing “gauge” or “panel” but thought I would see if someone has already been down this road.

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if you want it to come on with lights i would hook it to tail, i’ve never liked tapping into the gauge light cuz i’ve seen some issues in the past
 
I looked into this for my 470 and found that it actually seemed pretty difficult, due to how the dimming feature works on the dash lights (apparently it's not a simple voltage thing). I just wired mine so they are lit up when the ignition is turned on (same wire that feeds the switch power also feeds the switch light) and have no issues - can't say it bothers me that the switches are lit up in the daytime at all.
 
if you want it to come on with lights i would hook it to tail, i’ve never liked tapping into the gauge light cuz i’ve seen some issues in the past
Maybe I'll try that, I'll be using an add-a-circuit tap so I guess I can move it elsewhere if that doesn't work.
 
I looked into this for my 470 and found that it actually seemed pretty difficult, due to how the dimming feature works on the dash lights (apparently it's not a simple voltage thing). I just wired mine so they are lit up when the ignition is turned on (same wire that feeds the switch power also feeds the switch light) and have no issues - can't say it bothers me that the switches are lit up in the daytime at all.
Yeah, I probably won't get the adjustable dimming to that switch if I tap at the circuit panel, not that I dim the dash lights very often. Maybe I'll try to tap a wire to another switch if I can figure out which one is for the switch lighting.
 
Run it off the circuit that is tied to the 12V power port in the console (P/OUTLET 15A I believe). I'm probably going to do that when I install footwell lights. Or I might try and find a set of male and female connectors and run the power right off of an existing lighted switch without interfering with that existing switches function.

Does your switch have a separate wire for the lighted part?
 
Run it off the circuit that is tied to the 12V power port in the console (P/OUTLET 15A I believe). I'm probably going to do that when I install footwell lights. Or I might try and find a set of male and female connectors and run the power right off of an existing lighted switch without interfering with that existing switches function.

Does your switch have a separate wire for the lighted part?
Yes. It's a CH4X4 switch that will fit a blank factory switch location.

The switch provided by Eaton lights only when engaged, but the CH4X4 switch has an extra wire for general dash illumination power.
 
Yes. It's a CH4X4 switch that will fit a blank factory switch location.

The switch provided by Eaton lights only when engaged, but the CH4X4 switch has an extra wire for general dash illumination power.
Now that i think of it I remember what i did was use a scotch lock from the light switch on the wire for the light on the new switch and tapped into one of the existing oem switches wires for the lights so that the light just came on and dimmed with the rest
 
Yeah I'll probably try to tap one of the adjacent switches for the illumination wire. Just need to figure out which wire. I'll tap the outlet circuit for the general power wire as suggested by Mr Torque. So I think I have a plan.

I'm doing another CH4X4 switch for the front bumper light bar too, so hopefully I'll be able to do the same for it.
 
Now that i think of it I remember what i did was use a scotch lock from the light switch on the wire for the light on the new switch and tapped into one of the existing oem switches wires for the lights so that the light just came on and dimmed with the rest
When I installed the Dr. KDSS switch, this is how he instructs you to wire the switch by just tapping one of the existing adjacent switches. To be honest, I've never noticed if it dims or not with the rest but I don't adjust the dimmer hardly ever.
 
A simple lighted circuit tester:
Amazon product ASIN B07VN5BB31should tell you while the ignitions is on if the dash lights are on/off and even if they dim.
It may take two people to be efficient at this. One to turn on, off and dim the lights while the other is on their back, under the dash probing.
But it should be easy to figure out.
 
FWIW this 4Runner how-to suggests that tapping the PANEL circuit will work for switch illumination power.
I'm going to have a go at this tomorrow, so I'll decide then whether to tap the fuse panel for switch lighting or tap a wire from a nearby factory switch.
 
Success! Amazingly... got the relays and power and grounds and everything through the firewall and wired up to the CH4x4 switches, and... both the locker and light bar work! I found a patch of mud to verify the locker operation, and the rear tires scrubbed nicely on sharp turns.

I tapped the ACC fuse for power (I would have used OUTLET as suggested but the add-a-circuit specified 10 amps or less, and OUTLET is 15 amps), and the PANEL fuse for switch illumination.

I would note that you have to be careful in installing the switches with enough room for them to operate properly, just sticking out a little bit in the unswitched position so there is room to depress the switch without interference from the surround.
 
FWIW this 4Runner how-to suggests that tapping the PANEL circuit will work for switch illumination power.
I'm going to have a go at this tomorrow, so I'll decide then whether to tap the fuse panel for switch lighting or tap a wire from a nearby factory switch.
Good stuff. I'm going to test this to run my small LED lights in all four foot wells.
 
A few notes that might be useful for folks future reference:

Mostly as per that 4Runner post I wired the CH4x4 switch to the generic wiring harness (for my bumper light bar) as follows: green to white, red 1 to blue, red 2 to the PANEL fuse (which provides switch illumination when the dash lights are on), and black to black.

Regarding switch illumination, the CH4x4 switches are non-dimmable, if that matters to people. If you find the switches are too bright at night (we'll see but I think they will be fine), all you can really do is disconnect red 2. The upper part of the switches will still light up when engaged.

The CH4x4 switch was wired to the Eaton e-locker wiring harness as follows: green to ACC fuse, red 1 to relay (red/yellow wire on the Eaton harness), red 2 to PANEL fuse, black to a handy ground point.
 
Success! Amazingly... got the relays and power and grounds and everything through the firewall and wired up to the CH4x4 switches, and... both the locker and light bar work! I found a patch of mud to verify the locker operation, and the rear tires scrubbed nicely on sharp turns.

I tapped the ACC fuse for power (I would have used OUTLET as suggested but the add-a-circuit specified 10 amps or less, and OUTLET is 15 amps), and the PANEL fuse for switch illumination.

I would note that you have to be careful in installing the switches with enough room for them to operate properly, just sticking out a little bit in the unswitched position so there is room to depress the switch without interference from the surround.
Going through the firewall, did you go through the steering column?
 
A few notes that might be useful for folks future reference:

Mostly as per that 4Runner post I wired the CH4x4 switch to the generic wiring harness (for my bumper light bar) as follows: green to white, red 1 to blue, red 2 to the PANEL fuse (which provides switch illumination when the dash lights are on), and black to black.

Regarding switch illumination, the CH4x4 switches are non-dimmable, if that matters to people. If you find the switches are too bright at night (we'll see but I think they will be fine), all you can really do is disconnect red 2. The upper part of the switches will still light up when engaged.

The CH4x4 switch was wired to the Eaton e-locker wiring harness as follows: green to ACC fuse, red 1 to relay (red/yellow wire on the Eaton harness), red 2 to PANEL fuse, black to a handy ground point.
I had a CH4x4 switch in my Taco and 4Runner and it would dim if connected to the other switches illu wire, but not connected to the fuse, just fyi
 
I had a CH4x4 switch in my Taco and 4Runner and it would dim if connected to the other switches illu wire, but not connected to the fuse, just fyi
I read that they aren't dimmable on the internet so it must be true!

I haven't even tried the dimmer yet, I should do that. Not something I do often in regular use.
 
Going through the firewall, did you go through the steering column?
I poked through the giant grommet around the main wiring harness on the drivers side.

There is a similar wiring harness penetration on the passenger side but it is less accessible.
 

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