Dash Cam Relocate or Remove (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 29, 2008
Threads
9
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80
Location
Chapin, SC
Here is the procedure to remove or move the dash cam.

Remove the overhead console by pulling down on the end pointed toward the windshield. It's a tight fit and you may have to use a trim tool. Do not pull down of the opposite end or you could break the tabs.

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Remove the clamshell behind the rear view mirror.
It is in two parts. Push down the clamshell about 1/4 to 1/2 inch, then separate the top half by pulling gently toward the rear of the vehicle. The bottom half should release by pulling down further (keep it against the windshield). Note the two white clips at the bottom.

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Park in the sun to soften the adhesive on the back plate of the dash cam. I put my sun shield up to speed up the process without heating the entire cabin.

If you can push up on the dash cam about 1/4" it will release from the mounting plate.

Use a plastic paint scraper and cut through the adhesive rocking it back and forth at the bottom.
Follow the cable to the connector and release the connector. Pull out the cable and reroute as needed for installation on the passenger side.

Clean off the old adhesive and apply 3M double sided automotive tape.

Remount the dash cam a be sure to push up firmly so not to leave a gap before making contact with the adhesive. (I have a small gaps and put in a foam filler).

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Note that I spray painted the obnoxious red ACTION button black.

It's a big relief getting that POS out of my line of sight.
 
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VAST IMPROVEMENT!
 
Do you have pictures of the connector for the mirror, want to wiretap a radar detector.
 
Do you have pictures of the connector for the mirror, want to wiretap a radar detector.
The dash cam connector was spliced in the harness shown on this pic which is behind the overhead panel. Other Toyota models use a Y connector to avoid splicing. Apparently the Y connector is not available for the LC250 yet or SE port is too cheap to use it. It uses three wires, battery, acc, and ground. I did not try to trace the hardness to see what it connected to. There are a number of connectors on the backplate secured to the windshield so there are multiple power sources there. The FE mirror is multifunction including rearview camera so there are a multitude of wires to it.



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Here's the circuit for that harness:
Red: Constant 12V
Black: Switched Ignition
White w/Blk: Ground

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Here is the procedure to remove or move the dash cam.

Remove the overhead console by pulling down on the end pointed toward the windshield. It's a tight fit and you may have to use a trim tool. Do not pull down of the opposite end or you could break the tabs.

View attachment 3679233View attachment 3679234View attachment 3679260
Remove the clamshell behind the rear view mirror.
It is in two parts. Push down the clamshell about 1/4 to 1/2 inch, then separate the top half by pulling gently toward the rear of the vehicle. The bottom half should release by pulling down further (keep it against the windshield). Note the two white clips at the bottom.

View attachment 3679238


Park in the sun to soften the adhesive on the back plate of the dash cam. I put my sun shield up to speed up the process without heating the entire cabin.

If you can push up on the dash cam about 1/4" it will release from the mounting plate.

Use a plastic paint scraper and cut through the adhesive rocking it back and forth at the bottom.
Follow the cable to the connector and release the connector. Pull out the cable and reroute as needed for installation on the passenger side.

Clean off the old adhesive and apply 3M double sided automotive tape.

Remount the dash cam a be sure to push up firmly so not to leave a gap before making contact with the adhesive. (I have a small gaps and put in a foam filler).

View attachment 3679249

Note that I spray painted the obnoxious red ACTION button black.

It's a big relief getting that POS out of my line of sight.
Nice. this will be my first mod! there is no shortage of sun here to loosen up the adhesive.
 
Here is the procedure to remove or move the dash cam.

Remove the overhead console by pulling down on the end pointed toward the windshield. It's a tight fit and you may have to use a trim tool. Do not pull down of the opposite end or you could break the tabs.

View attachment 3679233View attachment 3679234View attachment 3679260
Remove the clamshell behind the rear view mirror.
It is in two parts. Push down the clamshell about 1/4 to 1/2 inch, then separate the top half by pulling gently toward the rear of the vehicle. The bottom half should release by pulling down further (keep it against the windshield). Note the two white clips at the bottom.

View attachment 3679238


Park in the sun to soften the adhesive on the back plate of the dash cam. I put my sun shield up to speed up the process without heating the entire cabin.

If you can push up on the dash cam about 1/4" it will release from the mounting plate.

Use a plastic paint scraper and cut through the adhesive rocking it back and forth at the bottom.
Follow the cable to the connector and release the connector. Pull out the cable and reroute as needed for installation on the passenger side.

Clean off the old adhesive and apply 3M double sided automotive tape.

Remount the dash cam a be sure to push up firmly so not to leave a gap before making contact with the adhesive. (I have a small gaps and put in a foam filler).

View attachment 3679249

Note that I spray painted the obnoxious red ACTION button black.

It's a big relief getting that POS out of my line of sight.
Thanks for the write up. I did mine this morning everything went good and I'm definitely glad to have it out of my line of sight.

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I completely removed the OEM dash cam without re-installing it on the passenger side. Here's a pic of the dash cam mounted on the driver's side. It wasn't just annoying, but an actual safety hazard. (Several times I nearly completely missed stop signs that would've resulted in disastrous outcomes.)

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Appreciate all the info provided here. I had some decent success. Ideally it would be up about 1/4" more to hide the wires but it's tricky to push that area up and make good contact reattaching it. The trick for removing that map light panel is pulling from the front and with a spirited yank of confidence but with care not to whack the other stuff below it.

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Follow along with the PDF above from Toyota. You need to give it a good yank but you also need to make sure you pull from a good spot in the front of it near the windshield and where the plastic is well supported. The images here and in that PDF give you a rough idea where the best spots to pull from are. It takes a leap of faith. I was very nervous myself since others have snapped those back clips.
 
I finally got around to I stalling mine today. All went pretty smooth except the clamshell thing around the rear view mirror. Two tiny little tabs exist to help connect the two piece together. I broke one. So I guess I’ll see how much this trim piece costs. I fear the wait will be more painful than the price.

I didn’t hear it break so no idea when it happened or how to warn anyone else thinking about this install. Overall this is not a hard job. Dealing with all these interior clips just sucks. Dropping down the sunroof switch panel takes a commitment to a hard pull to get it to release. I’m sure my colder temps today didn’t help the plastic parts.

That said it seems to be 100% secure output what ever that tiny tab does.

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And installed
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Just removed mine today, still working on removing mounting plate from the windshield. Would hate to crack the windshield.
 

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