Darasick's Build/Rebuild Thread...

[Darasick]

Never checked out the Current topics feature... Now I know, glad you ventured over.

Gotta love a zip tie.

Surprisingly enough, it's maintained, as is, for a duration of time that I'm embarrassed to admit to, but what little free time I've had has been invested on the restos.

I meant the bracket not the current mounting solution. Did you fab it yourself?

 

[Delancy]

I meant the bracket not the current mounting solution. Did you fab it yourself?

No. It's a 2.0" Poly Performance Bolt On Resi Mount.

Think they're $10 each and come with clamps.

 

[lostinafog]

Almost... Actually a highly technical technique to mock up for remote reservoir shocks.

Going to go with Radflo's and needed to see where the RR was going to go. I've been advised to mimmick a piggyback set up due to the real estate available, so I have to spec it out when I place my order.

Justin so ya be planing to run Baja next year?

 

[Darasick]

Justin so ya be planing to run Baja next year?

Not quite PK, I have been looking at shocks for the past couple years, knowing that the ones I put on wasn't going to last very long. My criteria was simple; they have to be bolt in, rebuildable, and gracefully handle the weight of my obese rig. There are only a few options out there and that led me to Radflo. My reasoning behind the remotes, is for the increase in dampening due to the floating piston, not so much for the high speed washboard roads and whoops. I doubt my rig will ever see those.

 

[GOT@TACO]

I have a pair of Radflo up front on my Taco and not to happy with them....I think I had them four to five years now... they squeak so bad it drives me nuts!! If you put water on them it stops.

 

[Delancy]

Race car parts make race care noises....

In seriousness, the spherical bearings are known wear items, but I've 70k on Radflo's on IFS without issue, BUT can't say the same for the other components of the IFS, which I've found Tri-Flow to quieten, when they complain.

Tri-Flow can be had a high end bicycle shops and offers better long term lubrication than water.

HTH.

 

[Darasick]

Last weekend I changed out the low pressure PS hoses, so the only leak left is the rear main, which I have no plans on addressing. The PS kit can be purchased from the same guy who offers the PHH kit and it's a little of a pain in the ass.

I also deflared it and will not be filling in the holes until I start prepping for paint next year.

Tonight I finished welding the diff protection and if I had to do it again I would spend a little more time fitting it. I used the TG diff protection and chopped it up. I think Guppie was the first person I saw do this.
I also finished prepping the hubs since the longfields showed up today along with some other goodies.

 

[John Stw]

Diff looks good to me. Longfields are the best upgrade I ever made on the 4Runner.

 

[Volunteer]

Looking good bud nice work on the diff cover and thanks for the FYI on the PS hose kit like I said I just need to ask you for the best option when I'm thinking of doing the next project you don't miss a thing While the frontend is off I was looking at changing the hoses to the PS cooler they're pretty weathered but will have to wait to do the others another time no leaks as of now but it wouldn't be a bad idea they're not in the best shape.

 

[Darasick]

Diff looks good to me. Longfields are the best upgrade I ever made on the 4Runner.

I would have tried to center the fill cap with the recess, which would have afforded me the space to drop a bead on the left side of the cover. Currently there is no weld there bc I can't get my gun between the cover and the control arm mount.

Looking good bud nice work on the diff cover and thanks for the FYI on the PS hose kit like I said I just need to ask you for the best option when I'm thinking of doing the next project you don't miss a thing While the frontend is off I was looking at changing the hoses to the PS cooler they're pretty weathered but will have to wait to do the others another time no leaks as of now but it wouldn't be a bad idea they're not in the best shape.

Yea mine were weathered and leaking. Unfortunately you cannot purchase just the lines from Toyota, you have to purchase the cooler as well. The kit from Toyota cost ~$300. The kit I installed uses Gates hydraulic/transmission hoses rated for 400 psi and with the SS clamps ran me right at $35. Overkill at the right price!

 

[Volunteer]

Well in that case I better get them on order thanks

 

[Darasick]

Dropped the birfs off today to get the ABS tone rings pressed off the old and pressed on the new ones.


In the meantime I threw in MetalTech's lower rear links. Man these things are beefy! I have yet to be disappointed with any of their products.

 

[Darasick]

Got her buttoned up except for the caliper on the PS. I'm changing out the axle to caliper Brake lines and the PO torqued the flared fitting on the hard line too much and it will have to be replaced.

This is my first front axle rebuild and I found the following to be very helpful. Buy two 10mm x 1.25 pitch bolts at least 40mm long. Cut off the bolt head to make a stud, cut a slot for a screwdriver, and install them in the knuckle at 10 and 2. This helps align the gaskets, spindle, dust cover, and dust seal. I pulled this info from the FAQ. See pic #2...

 

[Volunteer]

Looks good bud especially like those rear links nice and beefy, reading your posts I'm now kicking myself as I forgot your measurements my apologies do you still need them? I just came in from the shop and will be happy to go grab them.

 

[Darasick]

I sure do Larry. whenever you get a chance.

 

[Darasick]

OBA issues fixed

I want to close out the conversation that took place in comments #116-122 for anyone who may reference this thread for their OBA setup. I made a mistake when plumbing my OBA. As some of you may know, when buying most compressor and tank setups, they come with their own manifold which ties in the pump, tank and typically a 1/4" outlet. Well I removed that manifold in place for a much more complicated system. What I didn't realize is that I had removed the check valve and unloader. This isolates the pressure from the pump head. So when the pressure switch would trigger the relay at ~110psi the pump had to overcome all of that head pressure, which is the reason I kept popping 60amp fuses.

I installed a check valve from Viair and incorporated the finned line that came form the factory. Since then I have only popped one fuse when I stopped the compressor during a charging cycle and tried to turn it back on before the pressure trapped between the check valve and the piston had a chance to leak off. If I had an unloader this wouldn't be an issue. Below is a picture.

 

[raevenzero]

Which pump is that? I was looking at Viairs just like that today to hook to my old oba tank.

 

[Darasick]

Which pump is that? I was looking at Viairs just like that today to hook to my old oba tank.

It's a Puma (part number NCPD-1006 12V). Comes with a 2.5 gal tank and puts out a little over 3cfm if I remember right. If you are interested I can dig up the link tomorrow.

 

[Volunteer]

I want to close out the conversation that took place in comments #116-122 for anyone who may reference this thread for their OBA setup. I made a mistake when plumbing my OBA. As some of you may know, when buying most compressor and tank setups, they come with their own manifold which ties in the pump, tank and typically a 1/4" outlet. Well I removed that manifold in place for a much more complicated system. What I didn't realize is that I had removed the check valve and unloader. This isolates the pressure from the pump head. So when the pressure switch would trigger the relay at ~110psi the pump had to overcome all of that head pressure, which is the reason I kept popping 60amp fuses. I installed a check valve from Viair and incorporated the finned line that came form the factory. Since then I have only popped one fuse when I stopped the compressor during a charging cycle and tried to turn it back on before the pressure trapped between the check valve and the piston had a chance to leak off. If I had an unloader this wouldn't be an issue. Below is a picture.

Looks good bud glad to hear you got to the bottom of the fuse issue I still have that project on my to do list as well my compressor is the Tsunami the wife gave me as a gift I'm hoping I can plumb it to a 10lb fire extinguisher tank to fit my needs

 

[raevenzero]

I put a Viair 10010C on my grocery list. I plan on connecting it directly to my old tank with my old manifold and tank with a 105 psi switch instead of the 150 I was using before. I figure that is easier than making room for an a/c compressor on the engine. I also won't have to worry about an oil feed.

Thanks Larry, I forgot that I have a modified extinguisher tank that may fit in the location I need better than the tank I have. I stopped using it because I was worried about water accumulation and didn't have a way to drain it.