I'm not spending another dime on band-aids, it's time for a big brake kit.
Dangerous brake pulsing on long downhills (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter swild
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Same. These have been brilliant for me up here in the mountains in the PNW. I'm also loving the zero brake dust as a bonus.
Oy…. 
it can be frustrating when the right answer is posted, yet incorrect information is subsequently posted.
TLDR: it’s not the rotors. Get heavy duty pads.
I worked for a performance brakes manufacturer for over 12 years. I’ve had this conversation with customers more times than (whatever large counting superlative analogy you want to put in here)
The pulsing is not the rotors fault. That’s why people who changed rotors end up in the same predicament.
The pulsing is from uneven pad material buildup on the rotor. Many in this thread have mentioned this. If the pad material over heats, it starts to break down and clump up on the rotor.
The root cause is a mis-match between your brake pads and your driving style/ conditions. So get some heavy duty or performance type pads. They may put out more brake dust.
Also, from my own experience, I didn’t think I had anything of an overweight rig. AL front bumper w/ winch, no rear bumper, no rtt. I got the pulses, and replaced the brakes with ceramic pads thinking that it must be because the OE pads were low. Pulsing returned shortly. At some point I went to a CAT scale and found my rig was 7000# when loaded for a trip. My point is, some of your rigs are heavier than you think.
it can be frustrating when the right answer is posted, yet incorrect information is subsequently posted. TLDR: it’s not the rotors. Get heavy duty pads.
I worked for a performance brakes manufacturer for over 12 years. I’ve had this conversation with customers more times than (whatever large counting superlative analogy you want to put in here)
The pulsing is not the rotors fault. That’s why people who changed rotors end up in the same predicament.
The pulsing is from uneven pad material buildup on the rotor. Many in this thread have mentioned this. If the pad material over heats, it starts to break down and clump up on the rotor.
The root cause is a mis-match between your brake pads and your driving style/ conditions. So get some heavy duty or performance type pads. They may put out more brake dust.
Also, from my own experience, I didn’t think I had anything of an overweight rig. AL front bumper w/ winch, no rear bumper, no rtt. I got the pulses, and replaced the brakes with ceramic pads thinking that it must be because the OE pads were low. Pulsing returned shortly. At some point I went to a CAT scale and found my rig was 7000# when loaded for a trip. My point is, some of your rigs are heavier than you think.
Totally agree with @SpitnTears about getting performance pads.
I run 460 bakes in my 470 and have run it hard with left foot braking playing rally cars. It definitely got hot as I can smell it. It never fade or create pulsation.
I did run Raybesto R300 slotted rotors and Akebono Performance Ceramic. Not the most aggressive pads but it worked for me while still being relatively dust free.
I run 460 bakes in my 470 and have run it hard with left foot braking playing rally cars. It definitely got hot as I can smell it. It never fade or create pulsation.
I did run Raybesto R300 slotted rotors and Akebono Performance Ceramic. Not the most aggressive pads but it worked for me while still being relatively dust free.
r2m
Richard
If this is the case, I've seen posted on here (not this thread, but others) something about stopping short from a high speed, like 50 MPH a couple times to remove the build up.Oy….
TLDR: it’s not the rotors. Get heavy duty pads.
I worked for a performance brakes manufacturer for over 12 years. I’ve had this conversation with customers more times than (whatever large counting superlative analogy you want to put in here)
The pulsing is not the rotors fault. That’s why people who changed rotors end up in the same predicament.
The pulsing is from uneven pad material buildup on the rotor. Many in this thread have mentioned this. If the pad material over heats, it starts to break down and clump up on the rotor.
The root cause is a mis-match between your brake pads and your driving style/ conditions. So get some heavy duty or performance type pads. They may put out more brake dust.
Also, from my own experience, I didn’t think I had anything of an overweight rig. AL front bumper w/ winch, no rear bumper, no rtt. I got the pulses, and replaced the brakes with ceramic pads thinking that it must be because the OE pads were low. Pulsing returned shortly. At some point I went to a CAT scale and found my rig was 7000# when loaded for a trip. My point is, some of your rigs are heavier than you think.
Your thoughts??
Also, you can use googol for your counting superlative...
If this is the case, I've seen posted on here (not this thread, but others) something about stopping short from a high speed, like 50 MPH a couple times to remove the build up.
Your thoughts??
Also, you can use googol for your counting superlative...
There are times when you can't get rid of uneven deposits through rebedding. I'd thoroughly glazed a set of rotors at Autoclub Speedway in Fontana when it was still a full infield track and the only way to get rid of those was to either cut or replace.
Rebedding is all about the small details that is difficult to do safely and while observing laws. Most folks end up with a slight reduction, but if the root cause of the failure is not addressed or the procedure followed is insufficient your basically wasting gas.
Inspect the brakes thoroughly and then figure out what can be done to fix it.
I would also look into what type of friction rating your current pads have, and see what upgrades exist. Generally speaking you also need to account a working caliper, and a rotor that can handle the frictional upgrade. Im personally against drilled rotors, as you are decrease surface area and introducing fatigue points into the solid heatsink. I'd rather go upsized rotor size before same size dimpled/slotted.
For ref
Inspect the brakes thoroughly and then figure out what can be done to fix it.
I would also look into what type of friction rating your current pads have, and see what upgrades exist. Generally speaking you also need to account a working caliper, and a rotor that can handle the frictional upgrade. Im personally against drilled rotors, as you are decrease surface area and introducing fatigue points into the solid heatsink. I'd rather go upsized rotor size before same size dimpled/slotted.
For ref
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the guys above pretty much addressed it. The bed in process we recommended was accel to 50 and firm braking just short of abs intervention until 10 or 5 mph and repeat 10 times in quick succession. Keep in mind this was for performance cars, track cars and the like, but the point is to warm up the brakes and do it in a consistent manner. Apparently the white paper is still around. https://www.centricparts.com/media/..._Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdfIf this is the case, I've seen posted on here (not this thread, but others) something about stopping short from a high speed, like 50 MPH a couple times to remove the build up.
Your thoughts??
Also, you can use googol for your counting superlative...
This could work to resolve the issue, but it’s hard to do so. Uneven pad deposits usually just collect more pad material which why these vibrations just get worse over time.
It might be more possible with more abrasive pads.
The uneven pad deposits also start when the brakes are hot and you have to hold the vehicle with the brakes. This put a pad imprint on one spot of the rotor. Once the brakes cool off, it becomes more difficult to fix the problem. If the brakes are still hot, a bed in or dragging the brakes a bit can help smooth it out.
It’s hard to know exactly what is happening at the rotor and pad. By the time the vibrations show up, it’s probably too late to fix.
This is what I am going with next year. CEIKA Custom Big Brake Kit for Lexus GX460 (URJ150) (10~17) - https://ceika-store.com/products/cbk742
let me know if anybody is going to get bigger brakes. The gx460 brakes are an upgrade for the 1st gen Tundras.
Big brake kits won't fix dumb driving habits. Downshift.
Stock brakes warp because drivers are dumb? Perhaps they're under engineered leading to all these complaints.
"everyone is dumb but the guy who downshifts"
Brake rotors don’t warp (at least typically). I’m not sure why this keeps getting repeated within a few comments of someone correcting it.
(Just one read. I’m sure there’s many.)
alconkits.com
Why go straight for a crazy expensive big brake kit when you can try HD pads for $100, like the PowerStop Z36 pads? I disagree that the GX460 brakes are under-sized or under-engineered, but it does seem that the brake pad material selection is perhaps mismatched.
In mountain driving, I get some pulsing during moderate braking on a decent (traffic) but it clears up pretty quickly, and I’m still on stock pads.
Also, of course downshifting can be beneficial when loaded up or towing, but it’s really, really not realistic to expect people to do this in normal driving. Doesn’t mean it’s dumb to not downshift.
(Just one read. I’m sure there’s many.)
THE REAL TRUTH ABOUT WARPED BRAKE ROTORS
The REAL truth about warped brake rotors... The typical situation: New pads are fitted to a new pair of brake discs. A week later there’s a vibration or “judder” when the brakes are applied. A call to a mechanically inclined friend and an online search offers the diagnosis—the brake rotors are...
alconkits.com
Why go straight for a crazy expensive big brake kit when you can try HD pads for $100, like the PowerStop Z36 pads? I disagree that the GX460 brakes are under-sized or under-engineered, but it does seem that the brake pad material selection is perhaps mismatched.
In mountain driving, I get some pulsing during moderate braking on a decent (traffic) but it clears up pretty quickly, and I’m still on stock pads.
Also, of course downshifting can be beneficial when loaded up or towing, but it’s really, really not realistic to expect people to do this in normal driving. Doesn’t mean it’s dumb to not downshift.
Most drivers are both hard on their vehicles and the brakes and are not following the actual guidelines Lexus (Toyota) provides. Did you know Toyota recommends engine braking? I bet 99.9% of GX owners didn't know this. It's in both the GX470 and GX460 owners manuals.
Would "unaware" be less triggering than "dumb"?
Basic mechanical principles may be lost on you, but don't act like I'm the idiot. Read your Owner's manual.
Blasting down an 8% grade for 7,000 ft of elevation drop dragging your brakes is dumb in any vehicle. It's even worse in an old, out-dated, high mileage pig with a bunch of extra steel bolted on. Towing or not, your rig is a lot heavier than you think. The same goes for uphill in a heavy rig, staying in high gear is a great way to overheat your trans. Even a 2,600 lb Toyota Prius, with its CVT transmission, comes with shift position for braking. It's labelled "B" for a reason.
Heat and friction are what kills mechanical components. That's a fact that anyone who regularly drives through the mountains in a heavy offroad rig should know. We're not driving tiny little cars to the grocery store every weekend.
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OK. Poop.
r2m
Richard
Thank you for pointing that out Clint!
As I said before, I love using the manual shifting!
Downshifting rightfully has its place, however imo brakes are cheaper then transmissions. With the GXs seemingly have a weak point with transmissions, I would avoid undue stresses and/or expect to use a higher quality fluid/transmission cooler/more frequent drivetrain fluid exchanges.
With that in mind, the GX brake package can be little bit more stout, German marque-esque to handle the extra brake taxation, whether with better airflow to the brakes, bigger heatsink/rotor, and more aggressive pads (for a luxury program targets a ceramic brake pad offers decent performance, low noise and dust when cold over say a semi metallic) it pay dividends for those who constantly ascend and descend any significant altitude.
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