CW 2.0 (2 Viewers)

[seapotato]

My trucks 6150 pounds and more with three passengers going threw a washout on an angle I will have one bump stops hard on each axle.

That weight alone all on only two tires the bumps would be more than 1500 pounds resting on the two stops.

That's probably over 2k more than my truck weighs, so not the same thing, but even so the dampening effect is the main point here.

The weight rating is just the number at which they'll keep doing it all day, at some point they won't rebound as much if you squish them further, but it's not like they'll get pancake thin if 1500 pounds is put on them.

Anyways I'm not worried. They make 3 variations, this is the lightest density, if I really wanted I could get heavier ones, but Jonathan's truck is closer to the weight of yours and he hasn't had any issues.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I'm on my second set of OME med on front that they claim 2" of lift. I've kept a pretty close eye on the distance from the
top of the Sumo to the frame. It's down about 1/2". Might seem weird but I suspend my springs when I go away, frame is
on jack stands so the tires are clear of the ground. Weird philosophy that they aren't sitting holding weight for 5-6 weeks.
I run OME shocks. Of all of us I run the largest tire, basically measure out at 34.5". Fully loaded if I run into a cross ditch I will
bottom out fronts and in a turn the top of the tire rubs the inner fender fairly well but despite polishing never done any damage.
Since it's been 40K since I installed them, I did not replace the knuckle bearings at that time, it's about 15K more on them. This
last diff swap and tire rotation I noticed the front tires wearing bad. So I'll be getting to the knuckle bearings soon. I'm curious cause
the sumo's have really stabilized the front, and my belief is they somewhat protect the knuckle from worst of the pounding. But
they are consumable, like the springs. So when they come out we'll see if they come out worn out, or come out in little bits of
hardened bearing pieces.

 

[stevebradford]

That's probably over 2k more than my truck weighs, so not the same thing, but even so the dampening effect is the main point here.

The weight rating is just the number at which they'll keep doing it all day, at some point they won't rebound as much if you squish them further, but it's not like they'll get pancake thin if 1500 pounds is put on them.

That’s exactly why I was wondering how do you set the height of these with all those variables to bottom out before the shocks or hangers do.

I guess it’s just an estimate and see thing.

I’m also on Ome mediums so I use my bump stops a lot. I have the longest shocks I could fit so in those cross ditch situations I can drop an axle a fair bit keeping tires down. But that limits my up travel to 2 1/2 inches ~ having a progressive bump stop appeals but only if these progressive bump stops range would work still allowing some up travel at the same time stopping it at the right point.

 

[cruiserpilot]

OME shocks are length limiting shocks and are designed as stops to prevent over extension of the springs.
They have internal stops. Confirmed by conversation with tech from OME.
Up travel is always limited and with my truck tires do the limiting, there are definitely
polished areas when I'm pushing it and being heavy it's an easy limit to reach.

 

[seapotato]

Tired of arguing about bump stops and replacing deck beams, so I figured I'd do something easy that's been bugging me for years.

Several hours of sweat rage and skinned knuckles later, my front clip looks like it was aligned by someone vaguely sober.

Still not perfect but it's a hell of a lot better. Had to pull the fender supports and slot the bolt holes another half inch on both sides, and remove a shim from under the bib.

To fix this if have to adjust the hood hinges, but those bolts haven't been touched since new, and I don't feel like drilling them out.... because I know they'll all snap or strip.
(I just knocked out the pins to remove the hood before)

Also did this so the girly parts weren't showing under the dress. Laced on with zip ties for lack of a better idea.

Now. That's enough of this vaguely sober bull****...

 

[Bluebj42]

Went for a long ride in it yesterday, wasn't thrilled with it. The blue things were just a bit too close out back and were making it bouncy.

To move them further away would be a lot of work, and if I'm going to do a lot of work it'll be to fit proper airbags. Which I kinda want to do anyway.

So. Back to the front.

Think I have them just about right. Couple inches away, and even if they contact they should be squishier with all the weight.

No, that is not a hockey puck underneath

Dunno if I'll leave the landing pad there. I'll think about that another day. It time.
View attachment 3971560

Curious why you gave up on the rears not enough cushion need to move mounts up a bit

 

[bladedog]

Never have I heard of anything on a cruiser being called 'girly parts'!
...steering boxia, injection pumpulva, oil pan majora... ughhh.

 

[seapotato]

Curious why you gave up on the rears not enough cushion need to move mounts up a bit

Well, mainly because I'd have had to make new mounts that were a bit shorter.

Right now I have the stock 45 bumps, so they're probably cast, which would mean making totally new ones, can't just move them up a bit
Which is a fair bit of work.

And if I'm going that far, I kinda wanted to do airbags anyway at some point.


Suspension on this truck is a bunch of trial and error. Heavy on the error lol...but the rears are 70's half ton Chevy.

I also want to change the main leaves (or everything) before I do a bunch of work. For now, it rides nice, got pretty close for rummaging through a spring shops racks with a tape measure, I just hate the over long shackles.

 

[seapotato]

Never have I heard of anything on a cruiser being called 'girly parts'!
...steering boxia, injection pumpulva, oil pan majora... ughhh.

Mulva.




So worst story ever, but I s*** you not the DAY after watching that Seinfeld episode, I went to the bank and my teller was named Bunt.


I almost died

 

[bikersmurf]

Tired of arguing about bump stops and replacing deck beams, so I figured I'd do something easy that's been bugging me for years.

Several hours of sweat rage and skinned knuckles later, my front clip looks like it was aligned by someone vaguely sober.

View attachment 3976380View attachment 3976381

Still not perfect but it's a hell of a lot better. Had to pull the fender supports and slot the bolt holes another half inch on both sides, and remove a shim from under the bib.

To fix this if have to adjust the hood hinges, but those bolts haven't been touched since new, and I don't feel like drilling them out.... because I know they'll all snap or strip.
(I just knocked out the pins to remove the hood before)
View attachment 3976382

Also did this so the girly parts weren't showing under the dress. Laced on with zip ties for lack of a better idea.

View attachment 3976389

Now. That's enough of this vaguely sober bull****...

It wouldn't surprise me of some new 40s weren't much better than that when they rolled of the assembly line... they are essentially tractors after all. The finishing work on the hood spears wasn't exactly precision work. I wouldn't be surprised if the alignment of a Friday end of day truck might even be worse.

I suppose one of these days I should hack off the obsolete steering pedestal... and fab some front inner fenders. Probably fix the floors, door sills/rockers, rear 1/4s, and then last but not least inner fenders. It's looking like all the new sheet metal will be stainless.

I really hate filler, so my goal is to not use any. If things go well I may leave the stainless steel raw. See now it looks before making a final decision.