CW 2.0

[GTSSportCoupe]

Haha, I don't even know why I'm doing it, with the underdrive tcase, it drives great.

And yeah milling machine is on my list too.

Actually been thinking about making a mount for a spindle on my tool post. With this bigass face plate and a spindle that held a milling bit I could do a lot of things.

I like your horizontal mill idea using the lathe! Great idea.

I'm sure you won't regret the turbo. If for nothing else, the nice noises they make, haha. Should go great if the thing is moving good already.

 

[seapotato]

I like your horizontal mill idea using the lathe! Great idea.

I'm sure you won't regret the turbo. If for nothing else, the nice noises they make, haha. Should go great if the thing is moving good already.

No, the turbo will be a hoot, I am looking forward to it.
. Like today, I never drive just for fun, but we ended up tooling around all through cedar just for the hell of it, because it was a nice day and 40s without roofs are awesome.


For the machining, thing about a lathe this ancient is that the carriage/cross slide feed is a belt driven shaft, so it'd be really easy to hang a small motor to power it separately.

Which means I could easily lock the face plate in position and still be able to power feed the carriage with the spindle motor on it.


It'd be easier to just buy a mill of course, and I probably will at some point. If only for guitar parts, but it'll probably just be a mini mill that I'll always be exceeding the capacity of.

I can already see tons of jobs that would have been easier with the spindle motor. Facing the manifold would have been way less frightening

 

[seapotato]

Bit of a break because I managed to **** up my shoulder a bit last weekend. An "impingement" which is better than some of the other options, but still hurt like a bitch.

Reached the point now where it doesn't really hurt as long as I don't try to move it past where it locks up. Which annoyingly, is most noticeable when I try to play guitar. I can't reach the low end of the fretboard. The couch and ice pack days would have been a bit more interesting if I could play.

Oh well.


Anyways, got the manifold pretty much done. I still want to give it a squeeze to see if I have any pinholes, but that can wait.

Dug out old stank as a test fit stand.

Wastegate actuator bracket was a marvel of being wrong in every possible direction.

Exhaust flange and that s***ty first elbow are next.

Shiney manifold, douchey blue silicone hose...I just put extra curve in my hat brim to compensate.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Bit of a break because I managed to f*** up my shoulder a bit last weekend. An "impingement" which is better than some of the other options, but still hurt like a bitch.

Reached the point now where it doesn't really hurt as long as I don't try to move it past where it locks up. Which annoyingly, is most noticeable when I try to play guitar. I can't reach the low end of the fretboard. The couch and ice pack days would have been a bit more interesting if I could play.

Oh well.


Anyways, got the manifold pretty much done. I still want to give it a squeeze to see if I have any pinholes, but that can wait.

Dug out old stank as a test fit stand.



View attachment 3343998

Wastegate actuator bracket was a marvel of being wrong in every possible direction.
View attachment 3344003
Exhaust flange and that s***ty first elbow are next.

Shiney manifold, douchey blue silicone hose...I just put extra curve in my hat brim to compensate.

View attachment 3344004

Nice work man.

old stank" Haha, love it; so perfect.

I'd just scrap the waste gate actuator altogether if it was a PITA. Mine's disconnected; but maybe at some point exhaust manifold pressure overcomes the spring and it opens anyhow? Not enough fuel into my motor to get beyond about 18psi; which is a nice maximum anyhow.

 

[seapotato]

Nice work man.

old stank" Haha, love it; so perfect.

I'd just scrap the waste gate actuator altogether if it was a PITA. Mine's disconnected; but maybe at some point exhaust manifold pressure overcomes the spring and it opens anyhow? Not enough fuel into my motor to get beyond about 18psi; which is a nice maximum anyhow.

18 is a bit more than I want to go, this isn't one of those modern sportscoupe engines

I'm thinking just 10-12 or so, but we'll see how hard the mibs hits once its in... I only have ONE spare 3b lol

I haywired a tire inflator with a gauge on the line and it starts flapping around 5 ish near as I can tell.

Which is close enough for the initial test runs, I'll turn it up more after I see where it's really at.

 

[seapotato]

Went out and ordered a couple bspt to npt adapters and realized I should really just buy a die. Seems to happen every 5 years or so I need one.

Having a Gregg's nearby is pretty damn nice.

Also bought a couple weld elbows and realized when I got them home they wouldn't work at all, so, I get to make some stock boy happy when I pick up the adapters next week.

Means this is about as far I I'll get today. I was dreading grinding this thing out, but I remembered I have a semi functional plasma cutter

The hole is offset between the studs, which made it a pain in the girly parts.


Anyways, I'll have more bits and pieces to zap together next week. I'm hoping I can get this so I cut off the old exhaust and connect it to the new one with a coupler, without much fuss but that probably won't work out like I hope. I'm expecting fuss lol.

I can actually move my arm to the left today, so I have another little project to get into that's way more fun.

 

[seapotato]

Couple more bits and pieces. Need a chunk of 2" for the charge pipe, and to figure out the intake but that might have to wait until it's installed.

I'm hoping to make this exhaust elbow end up close to where the existing exhaust pipe is, so I can just clamp together.

We'll see if that works out or not...

And yes, I'm aware that oil line needs an elbow on it.

Found this interesting though.

The inlet fitting has a very small orifice for the oil supply.

Not sure if I'd be happy with that tiny a hole, I could see opening it up, but I'll do some reading on that before I drill holes in anger.

It would certainly make the drain an easier thing to deal with.

Was browsing for an inlet fitting, and there were s***loads of kits with hoses and fittings for not a lot of money.

Hose itself seems pretty solid, and it actually fits in the bspt threaded hole in the block, but could have stood to be a bit shorter.

This made me laugh tho. Someone forgot something....

Still.

Using a t3 and parts being everywhere is a lot easier than last time when I used a volvo turbo, and everything was weird proprietary volvo threads.

 

[stevebradford]

Nice! Your current exhaust 2.5 inch already?

Where’s the flex in the exhaust? Just going to let the whole hard pipe rattle around down there?I’m sure you know how wild the 3b jumps around when you start it up or shut it down, mine moves side to side a full inch starting or stoping with my new fresh soft motor mounts and new tranny belly mount.


I believe turbo manufacturers recommend a flexible exhaust section about 8 inches down from the waste gate housing down pipe to alleviate stress on that flange or turbo housing itself.

I use stainless flex pipe they usually fit to stand mounted building generators.

 

[seapotato]

Nice! Your current exhaust 2.5 inch already?

Where’s the flex in the exhaust? Just going to let the whole hard pipe rattle around down there?I’m sure you know how wild the 3b jumps around when you start it up or shut it down, mine moves side to side a full inch starting or stoping with my new fresh soft motor mounts and new tranny belly mount.


I believe turbo manufacturers recommend a flexible exhaust section about 8 inches down from the waste gate housing down pipe to alleviate stress on that flange or turbo housing itself.

I use stainless flex pipe they usually fit to stand mounted building generators.
View attachment 3348511

I have one on the truck, downstream a bit. I might ad a second to help line things up.
I usually tab my exhaust to the trans and tcase and put the flex after that.

If there's any flex between the tcase and engine I doubt it's enough to measure...so all that bouncing is actually bit further back.
But yes, 2.5 already, so I just have to tie in.

 

[bikersmurf]

Couple more bits and pieces. Need a chunk of 2" for the charge pipe, and to figure out the intake but that might have to wait until it's installed.

I'm hoping to make this exhaust elbow end up close to where the existing exhaust pipe is, so I can just clamp together.

We'll see if that works out or not...

And yes, I'm aware that oil line needs an elbow on it.

Found this interesting though.

The inlet fitting has a very small orifice for the oil supply.

Not sure if I'd be happy with that tiny a hole, I could see opening it up, but I'll do some reading on that before I drill holes in anger.

It would certainly make the drain an easier thing to deal with.

Was browsing for an inlet fitting, and there were s***loads of kits with hoses and fittings for not a lot of money.

Hose itself seems pretty solid, and it actually fits in the bspt threaded hole in the block, but could have stood to be a bit shorter.

This made me laugh tho. Someone forgot something....

Still.

Using a t3 and parts being everywhere is a lot easier than last time when I used a volvo turbo, and everything was weird proprietary volvo threads.

I've got an adapter fitting that looks just like that. Really annoying when someone misses something simple like that,

 

[crustyBJ60]

Don’t forget to weld your pyro bung in before you wrap/install. Don’t ask me how I know

I had good luck with wrap, flex joint and bits on Amazon. Meh, who knew.

The dump was sourced/fabbed from off the shelf Cambodian tire exhaust parts.

I scored a pretty sweet little turbo blanket that actually keeps the heat down for like $40 delivered.

I also wrapped my dump all the way to the first flange joint in the exhaust. About 3 feet.

YMMV.

looking good so far

 

[seapotato]

Don’t forget to weld your pyro bung in before you wrap/install. Don’t ask me how I know

I had good luck with wrap, flex joint and bits on Amazon. Meh, who knew.

The dump was sourced/fabbed from off the shelf Cambodian tire exhaust parts.

I scored a pretty sweet little turbo blanket that actually keeps the heat down for like $40 delivered.

I also wrapped my dump all the way to the first flange joint in the exhaust. About 3 feet.

YMMV.

looking good so far

Amazon has tons of s***. I have a cart going with a few bits right now...turbo blanket and wrap are already in it, and it's a night shift so I'll probably add more crap. Because **** knows I'm not doing any work...

I remembered to weld in the bung, just haven't decided if I want to get into an argument with the Auber people again about a pyro... be interesting to see if the same clown still works there

With the flex joints,

Personally I think the reason they recommend a flex joint next to aftermarket turbos because they know some kid is going to build a scabby exhaust and not buy a flex because they're expensive, and bolt the whole thing in solid and crack it.

Toyota braces exhaust pipes to the engine block a foot away from the manifold...so I guess we know their opinion, but a flex pipe does make aligning s*** a lot easier.


Kinda funny, on mootard I swapped in a fresher 3b with a $$$ axt kit on it, but the old crackwhore had the ghetto supreme flipped manifold with a turbo that cost me a cheeseburger.

Only difference between the two setups was looks and about 1500 bucks

 

[seapotato]

Just refreshed my memory about turbos, that oil restrictor in the feed line is more for ball bearing turbos where the bearings just need a bit of oil.

Turbos with journal bearings want more oil than will squeak through that little hole, so I'll definitely be drilling it out.

Still haven't decided what to do with the drain. I'm about 50/50 on a double banjo or a bung in the side cover.

Not feeling the oil pan removal.

 

[Toshi38]

The inlet fitting has a very small orifice for the oil supply.

Not sure if I'd be happy with that tiny a hole, I could see opening it up, but I'll do some reading on that before I drill holes in anger.

Just refreshed my memory about turbos, that oil restrictor in the feed line is more for ball bearing turbos where the bearings just need a bit of oil.

Turbos with journal bearings want more oil than will squeak through that little hole, so I'll definitely be drilling it out.

Still haven't decided what to do with the drain. I'm about 50/50 on a double banjo or a bung in the side cover.

Not feeling the oil pan removal.

Yep .. be careful with drilling that one out, I know my volvo turbo smoked like hell and I ended up "fixing" it by both improving the drain (didn't use the one built into the block but welded a bung in the pan and brazing the inlet shut + drilling a much smaller hole after some reading that part of the issue was that I was massively oversupplying the oil.

 

[seapotato]

Yep .. be careful with drilling that one out, I know my volvo turbo smoked like hell and I ended up "fixing" it by both improving the drain (didn't use the one built into the block but welded a bung in the pan and brazing the inlet shut + drilling a much smaller hole after some reading that part of the issue was that I was massively oversupplying the oil.

Yeah, there's a fine line in there. I'll probably open it up to 1/8", which is still pretty restrictive compared to my old turbo that didn't have one, and didn't leak once I had the drain done properly. ( leaked like an MF'er before I fixed the drain tho )

I never looked at the AXT fittings to see if it had one or not.

 

[seapotato]

Went down a rabbit hole a little bit on turbo oil flow.

Installation Data holset hx40
1. Mount the turbocharger on the turbine inlet flange. All other connections must be flexible and heavy pipework
should be supported. Always pre-lube with clean engine oil.
2. Always position the bearing housing so that the oil drain is at the bottom and kept within 22° of the vertical centre
line when installed on the engine.
3. Oil should be filtered below 15/20 microns. The oil quality must be as specified by the engine manufacturer.
e.g. API - CD (MIL - L - 2104C). Improvement in life can be obtained by using super high performance diesel
(SPHD) oils, particularly where extended oil drain periods are used.
4. Oil pressure must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to
turbocharger bearing system from lack of lubrication.
5. The minimum oil pressure, when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa [2.0 kgf/cm2, 30 lbf/in2] and pressures up
to 415 kPa [4.0 kgf/cm2, 60 lb/in2] are satisfactory. Under idling conditions the pressure should not fall below 70 kPa
[0.7 kgf/cm2. 10lbf/in2].
6. The oil inlet pipe should be 9.5 mm [0.375 in.] bore minimum and the oil drain pipe should be 19 mm [0.75 in.] bore
minimum. The oil must drain downwards by gravity from the turbocharger into the engine under all operating
conditions.
Normal oil temperature is 95+/-5°C (203+/-9°F). It should not exceed 120°C (248°F) under any operating condition.
11. Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.
15. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum torque speed.






Tldr, 2 Lpm at idle.

Found a couple other sites where 2 Lpm at idle is mentioned, and one where the test is to put oil feed line into a jug and idle engine for 15 seconds.
I'll do that before I bolt on the turbo...once turbo is on it'd be better to pull the drain off but that could get messy.


I guess if I get a s***load more than 2 Lpm out of it, I'll restrict it, but I'm thinking it'll be no restriction, and don't skimp on the drain.

Kinda curious now.

 

[seapotato]

Nice! Your current exhaust 2.5 inch already?

Where’s the flex in the exhaust? Just going to let the whole hard pipe rattle around down there?I’m sure you know how wild the 3b jumps around when you start it up or shut it down, mine moves side to side a full inch starting or stoping with my new fresh soft motor mounts and new tranny belly mount.


I believe turbo manufacturers recommend a flexible exhaust section about 8 inches down from the waste gate housing down pipe to alleviate stress on that flange or turbo housing itself.

I use stainless flex pipe they usually fit to stand mounted building generators.
View attachment 3348511

@stevebradford where did you find the stainless flex?
I did a pretty deep dive last night and all I find is that Walker galv crap and the braided things.
Gregg's list some, but it's 3" and sold in 25' lengths which is a bit more than I need lol

 

[stevebradford]

The latest stainless flex I bought was from our local marine store, Trotac marine. Previously also Wilson and Proctor a diesel shop that does a lot of work on large generators, any REAL industrial diesel shop that works on machines should have it or be able to get it.

I assume it could be ordered offline but your right any real stuff will likely be bulk and any smaller lengths will be an exorbitant amount of Canadian peso’s.

Did a little shopping for you. 40$ and this 2 1/2 stainless exhaust flex is yours. This type im also running on my 60 probably won’t last as long as the real good spiral wound and linked other stuff in that first picture and i have in 2 inch previously on the cruiser that’s 7 years and still going strong.

 

[seapotato]

Nice. You headed this way anytime soon or am I doing a little road trip?

I'm gonna have to reread our texts to remind me what other parts we talked about


I'm starting to think I could install this contraption in the next week or two. Oil drain is the last hangup...

 

[seapotato]

That trotac piece in the first pic looks an awful lot like what they use on marine diesel stoves for chimneys...

Which I guess is pretty much the same thing