CW 2.0 (2 Viewers)

[seapotato]

And then, the brief spurt of give a **** for cosmetic bull**** vanished as quickly as it came.

 

[seapotato]

Almost made it to page 2 before I got off my ass and did something. Slowly gathering parts for some tcase stuff before I plate it again, so in the meantime, I needed to figure out something to do with the jack.

Mounting to the rack is too overlandy dbag and one step away from getting a compass decal for the hood.

Carrying it in the bed is a waste of space, interior is just one more thing to hook a seat belt, bang an elbow or head on etc.

Start running out of options after a while

So, I carved up a bit of scrap 4" plastic pipe to stuff it into.

Kindof dead space under here anyways.

I cut a section out of an old inner tube to go over the workings of the jack. Should keep some of the s*** out of it, but I think once the fender skirts are in it won't be too bad.

Haven't mounted the skirts yet, need to weld in some tabs and tap holes, but I'm not feeling it today. They should hopefully cut down on the rocks hitting the back of the cab like bullets and scaring the s*** out of anyone inside.

Thinking some sort of hook with a bolt on the far side to hold the jack in the tube and cap the end all at once, but I need to think about that some more.

Needs to be enough of a pain in the ass to make it hard to quickly steal, but not such a pain in the ass that I end up borrowing the jack off some overlandy dbag's rack...

I'm going to bend a piece of flat bar around the pipe to give it some more support, but this test fit is enough to show the plan is ok.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Healthy coat of Fluid Film before you store it in that rubber bag for indefinite period.

 

[seapotato]

Healthy coat of Fluid Film before you store it in that rubber bag for indefinite period.

Bet it's dryer in there than the floor of my 60's been for the last 5 years.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

You ever watched that guy on youtube AvE, he makes me laugh plus he is supper fawking smart,. question is why a high lift jack whens it never hardly leaves the farm..

 

[seapotato]

You ever watched that guy on youtube AvE, he makes me laugh plus he is supper fawking smart,. question is why a high lift jack whens it never hardly leaves the farm..

Hadn't heard of him. Likes his evening meals I take it?


As for leaving the farm, patience grasshopper. New truck that's only been insured for 6 months. Still have bugs to work in.


Plus , minor details like global pandemics and lockdowns kinda shat on my plans last year.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hadn't heard of him. Likes his evening meals I take it?


As for leaving the farm, patience grasshopper. New truck that's only been insured for 6 months. Still have bugs to work in.


Plus , minor details like global pandemics and lockdowns kinda shat on my plans last year.

To be honest, I've never had to use a high lift jack while wheeling. BUT, I've used it more times than I can count on the farm and even my backyard. Usually for pulling out fence posts, or leveling small sheds, etc.

 

[seapotato]

To be honest, I've never had to use a high lift jack while wheeling. BUT, I've used it more times than I can count on the farm and even my backyard. Usually for pulling out fence posts, or leveling small sheds, etc.

Yeah I hate the damn things....but, it's a tool.

So if I can store it in otherwise wasted space and not have it in my way, why not.

Might box in that side area and make a door for it. Decent little stash spot for chains or something.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Yeah I hate the damn things....but, it's a tool.

So if I can store it in otherwise wasted space and not have it in my way, why not.

Might box in that side area and make a door for it. Decent little stash spot for chains or something.

I like the new ARB high lift jack, but at 1200 doll hairs I will pass.https://www.youtube.

 

[Rigpig]

Almost made it to page 2 before I got off my ass and did something. Slowly gathering parts for some tcase stuff before I plate it again, so in the meantime, I needed to figure out something to do with the jack.

Mounting to the rack is too overlandy dbag and one step away from getting a compass decal for the hood.

Carrying it in the bed is a waste of space, interior is just one more thing to hook a seat belt, bang an elbow or head on etc.

Start running out of options after a while

So, I carved up a bit of scrap 4" plastic pipe to stuff it into.

Kindof dead space under here anyways.

I cut a section out of an old inner tube to go over the workings of the jack. Should keep some of the s*** out of it, but I think once the fender skirts are in it won't be too bad.

Haven't mounted the skirts yet, need to weld in some tabs and tap holes, but I'm not feeling it today. They should hopefully cut down on the rocks hitting the back of the cab like bullets and scaring the s*** out of anyone inside.

Thinking some sort of hook with a bolt on the far side to hold the jack in the tube and cap the end all at once, but I need to think about that some more.

Needs to be enough of a pain in the ass to make it hard to quickly steal, but not such a pain in the ass that I end up borrowing the jack off some overlandy dbag's rack...

I'm going to bend a piece of flat bar around the pipe to give it some more support, but this test fit is enough to show the plan is ok.

Don't hold back on us, sent that to the "Tech" section ASAP!!!

 

[seapotato]

Don't hold back on us, sent that to the "Tech" section ASAP!!!

I don't know why I bother.

 

[seapotato]

Just for @Rigpig because he loves minor updates sooo much.

Plus I suspect he needs a break from the rapey hillfolk up on his mountain.



I made a hinged door, and I'm most of the way through making a nerd latch for it.

There's really no good reason to use a hub dial as a latch other than being a nerd, but I'm doing it anyways, so **** all y'all.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Just for @Rigpig because he loves minor updates sooo much.

Plus I suspect he needs a break from the rapey hillfolk up on his mountain.



I made a hinged door, and I'm most of the way through making a nerd latch for it.

There's really no good reason to use a hub dial as a latch other than being a nerd, but I'm doing it anyways, so f*** all y'all.

That'll be a good parking lot conversation starter! I know you love those.

It is, however...... cool.

 

[seapotato]

Finished off the nerd latch. Clamps on there pretty tight, I didn't want to drill that center bit of the hub because I'm not sure what kindof s***ty pot metal it's made out of.

Mostly boxed in, just need a panel for the back, which I might just do out of plastic sheet or rubber mat.

Same for inner fender.

Don't mind the booger weld in the corner. That was a 3am attempt at stick welding the stainless, which I promptly gave up on.

Small amount of mud flap on the back. maybe it'll save me getting pulled over one day.

Think it actually looks better with that corner boxed in, so I'll do the other side once the necessary amount of give a s*** filters back in...

 

[seapotato]

Doing some stuff. Bit of retail therapy because I'm a little sick and tired of the bs, so hiding in the shop for a vacation...

3 main things on the list are tcase gears, new clutch and building an ebrake, because I have a FF rear with discs (= no ebrake)

Burnt this mounting bracket out at work in the wee hours a couple weeks ago, started on the rotor.

Haven't fully settled on a diameter yet, I initially hoped the caliper would fit with the black piece facing aft, but that would require a pretty big disc for it to clear.
With it facing the other way I can trim down the disc a fair bit more.

Pretty slick little mechanical calipers. Actuator arm can be moved to 3 different angles.
Northwest fab were working on a kit for the split case but it's apparently been backburnered, they use this caliper on a kit for a domestic case tho. I'll need to make a spacer for it so it can clamp on the thinner rotor.

I'll finish off the bracketry when I get my case back together. Spare case half is only good enough for getting it close without the shaft to hold the flange in the right spot.
So that's as far as it goes for now.

Part duh of the operation is tcase gears. Bought a set of the sumo gears. Went for the 3.3-1 low range with the 10% underdrive in high.
Naturally aspirated 3b with 34" tires has meant never being able to use 5th gear other than on a downhill slope.
3.3 instead of 4.1 because I only have 34mm cases, and the 3.3 requires less clearancing. How much less? Good question, and it'd be nice if the vendor could answer that, but they knew SFA about it. (Insert audible expletive laden eye roll here)

So hopefully I get the gear to fit before I create a window in the case. We'll see...gonna be close

Made this thing to help me get close with the clearancing. Fits right in the hole, pointer is for the 7.25" diameter.

After a while when it seemed like it was getting close, I put the big gear on the shaft with the old bearing.

Grind with air die grinder.
Colour in with sharpie.
Put output bearing housing on.
Lower in shaft with gear, wiggle to mark.
Grind off marks.
Rinse repeat x1000000

Basically I'm just erasing the sharpie.

Close now. Bearing is fully in and the gear spins, although it does still rub in a couple spots. Not sure how much clearance to give the gear? Again useful info that would be good to include, but these came with nothing.
I doubt there's much flex in side the tcase but it probably wants a bit of wiggle room.

Couple more passes and I'll do a test fit with clamping the case halves together. I have the front half rebuilt and back on the back of the tranny.

Should be good once it's in there. I've wanted to regear one of my 3b cruisers for 20 years but could never really afford to. (Or at least could never justify the expense)
A year of being unable to do a damn thing helped with the funding. Yay covid.

One thing I'm not super impressed with on the sumo kit is the 34-38mm adapter idler shaft.

More on that later.

 

[seapotato]

So the idler shaft adapter.

See the gap? Zero reason for it as far as I can see. That's with shaft pushed in til it hits in the back. Gap is almost 1.5mm.

Considering the bushings are only 2mm that's kindof the s***s. I'd have to assemble the halves to see if the gap is as bad on the other side too.

Guess I'll just have to make sure the bushings don't slip when I put it together. Normally it's just whether the tab is lined up, here it could slip into that gap and hold the case apart.
Can't really go anywhere I suppose, the gears just brush up against the bushings, they aren't under huge pressures generally I don't think.

Just seems like it wasn't machined very accurately considering the price tag.

Tempted to see how it goes together with the 34mm bushings. Almost like they left a gap for them and then included 38mm anyways?

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Wonder if you knew some one with a mill, could the holes be opened up for the bigger idler and have the case clearance at the same time?

 

[seapotato]

Wonder if you knew some one with a mill, could the holes be opened up for the bigger idler and have the case clearance at the same time?

Yeah I've heard it's doable. When I get home I'll do some more measuring. My tcase kit is a 34mm, so I have new 34mm bushings too.

I could turn the 38mm section back .5mm and use the 34mm bushings.

Don't remember if the od of the bushings is different.

I shouldn't have to do that tho. Not with a $$ kit. I emailed the vendor, we'll see what they say about it.

 

[seapotato]

So, I'm thinking it's supposed to be installed with the 34mm bushings.

I did some measuring.

And this is the distance between the faces that the bushings sit against.

Those numbers should be closer it seems to me. Plus ad .5mm for the gasket.

I'd say the safer bet would be using the 34mm bushings.


Good news is, I can spin the output with the case halves clamped together. So I'm close.

Power went out for a minute in the middle of posting this.

It's a sign. Thou shalt go inside, crack beer.

 

[seapotato]

So I have the clearancing pretty much dealt with, crank the whole shebang together spin, check for marks, erase marks and now it's smooth as a gravy sammich. Don't know how much extra room to leave, but if it doesn't touch it doesn't touch.

I'll still be changing the oil pretty often for the first while.

Moved on to wrapping my brain around this idler shaft bs. I installed it with 34mm bushings, and tightened up the halves.

FSM says this...

My feeler gauge set kinda sucks (smallest is .25mm) and I couldn't quite fit it in, added the gasket to push the case halves apart and clearance is now right around .5mm and the little step on the idler shaft is perfectly flush.

So I'm gonna have to go on the assumption that this is meant to be put together with 34mm bushings, despite it having come with 38's.

Getting the 38's to stay put while assembling and having them be supposed to catch that little lip seems like asking for them to slip to the side.

Because if there's room for that 34mm one on the back side to fit in that gap, and the flat spot for the tab is flush, that means there's room for the 38mm one to fit in that gap too. Das no good.

I don't think any of that is super critical, just an unnecessary annoyance having to figure it out.


So now to clean up that rear case so it looks less s***ty and chuck some new bearings in.