CW 2.0 (1 Viewer)

[GTSSportCoupe]

So I have the clearancing pretty much dealt with, crank the whole shebang together spin, check for marks, erase marks and now it's smooth as a gravy sammich. Don't know how much extra room to leave, but if it doesn't touch it doesn't touch.

I'll still be changing the oil pretty often for the first while.

Moved on to wrapping my brain around this idler shaft bs. I installed it with 34mm bushings, and tightened up the halves.

FSM says this...

My feeler gauge set kinda sucks (smallest is .25mm) and I couldn't quite fit it in, added the gasket to push the case halves apart and clearance is now right around .5mm and the little step on the idler shaft is perfectly flush.

So I'm gonna have to go on the assumption that this is meant to be put together with 34mm bushings, despite it having come with 38's.

Getting the 38's to stay put while assembling and having them be supposed to catch that little lip seems like asking for them to slip to the side.

Because if there's room for that 34mm one on the back side to fit in that gap, and the flat spot for the tab is flush, that means there's room for the 38mm one to fit in that gap too. Das no good.

I don't think any of that is super critical, just an unnecessary annoyance having to figure it out.


So now to clean up that rear case so it looks less s***ty and chuck some new bearings in.

Nice work. Could always run it for a bit with no load before putting on the drive shafts? Then do a quick oil check etc. before attaching driveshafts for road test?

 

[seapotato]

Nice work. Could always run it for a bit with no load before putting on the drive shafts? Then do a quick oil check etc. before attaching driveshafts for road test?

Yeah I'll be paranoid for a while for sure. Probably do an oil flush after the first few k.

The oil came out pretty grey and s***ty from the tcase, probably like most of them running around, so it's not like they aren't used to some s***ty conditions.

Tranny oil was clear thankfully.

Not exactly plan A to have aluminum dust in there tho...


I forgot how much I hate that little a****** bearing in the front of the shaft. I've wasted a lot of time over the years trying to get the little bastard out.

I need to find a nice set of pullers. I never seem to have the right one, but this worked pretty slick.

Tacked a nut inside the shell, ran it under cold water, cursed loudly.

 

[seapotato]

And this is for @cruiserpilot on getting the stack apart.

1. Press the big bugger off.

2. Circlip

3. Press stuff off the other way.

4. Viola.

Pretty simple, worst part is that circlip is a bastard to get out I find.

And the a****** bearing of course.

 

[stevebradford]

Good thing you have pictures now to remember the order that it goes back in.

The memory gets foggy sometimes.

 

[seapotato]

Good thing you have pictures now to remember the order that it goes back in.

The memory gets foggy sometimes.

Haha, I even remembered to put the shift collar back on before pressing the output bearing on...


Pretty sure I've forgotten that once in the past.

 

[seapotato]

That's it for today. time.

They do look impressive in there.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Very cool. My gears are on backorder . Perhaps when all ready I’ll come to see about borrowing the
press. Much quicker and simpler than BFH over the vice. Good pics. I can’t wait.
You are going to put the PTO assembly back on?

 

[seapotato]

Very cool. My gears are on backorder . Perhaps when all ready I’ll come to see about borrowing the
press. Much quicker and simpler than BFH over the vice. Good pics. I can’t wait.
You are going to put the PTO assembly back on?

Yes to the PTO. Hoping to clean it up a bit first, maybe change the seals, and direction of output if I'm motivated. Always leaked a bit.

Sure on the press. A lot nicer than hammering.

 

[cruiserpilot]

PG45er got the steering box today. With thanks. Debt of beer recognized.

 

[seapotato]

Had a thought when I woke up in the middle of the night, something about a spacer having to be moved for the pto output to be changed.

Which was kindof a crap, hope it's not the one inside the tcase moment....seems not. Just an internal spacer in the pto gear box.

Gonna go out on a limb and say this is why it leaked

weird looking seal, but checking partsouq it's just a 35x55x11 worth about 2 bucks ( and 10x that to ship it 12000 kms )

Just looks like a normal seal, not like the mess in picture.
(Mususashi T1150 or Toy 90311-35004 just so I can find the number later)

I'll see what the local bearing shop says.


As for the PTO's guts, the shaft has different bearings at each end, but they're the same od, and the splined section is long enough to span the inside, so not much to it.

Interesting that both gears have shift collars. I guess some variations were reversing.

And now it's rear output, minus that ****ed oil seal I'll have to scrounge up.

Still don't know what, if anything I'll ever do with it, but there's more room aft to attach something to it than there is in front.


Edit...Motion industries could get it, but they have a $25 minimum and it's a 5 buck seal

Bumper to bumper managed to cross ref the toyota number, so I should be in business next week.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I have an assortment of seals in small boxes and bags. Perhaps another Toyota seal might fit?

Toy 90311-35004

I'll look and see if I have that number/

 

[seapotato]

I have an assortment of seals in small boxes and bags. Perhaps another Toyota seal might fit?

I'll look and see if I have that number/

sure if you want.

ladysmith says tomorrow morning but I'm back to work so next week it is.

sounds like the seal had a few names so it's probably used in a few applications.

Ass end is getting complicated looking

note to self, torque nut under the cover plate....

 

[cruiserpilot]

So you did get the drive out the rear of the PTO. Cool

 

[stevebradford]

Pretty simple, worst part is that circlip is a bastard to get out I find.

 

[seapotato]

View attachment 2603310

The ones with holes are so much nicer than those ****ers with the bevelled ends Toyota uses.

Further complications ...

Spacer for brake pads (skinny rotor)
Stole this method from nwf's kit.

Jeebus.

I think I can get it to fit this way. Looks better, not that it means anything under a truck.

 

[stevebradford]

Getting close to the body with it on top. I can grab a measurement for you tonight if you need.

 

[seapotato]

Getting close to the body with it on top. I can grab a measurement for you tonight if you need.

Haha it's close to everything.

not sure what you'd measure to that relates to a homemade stretch cab on a 70 series frame...

It's just the actuator arms that are being a pain.

Might be it needs to go the other way. There's something I want to try first, but that's a next week fresher brain thing.

I have 5 days off after my period of bliss with nurses trying to kill me, so I'll reassess then.

 

[stevebradford]

Right forgot you weren’t working on the 60. I wasn’t able to put mine on the top with my 40 series, not enough room and I have a 2 inch body lift.

 

[seapotato]

Right forgot you weren’t working on the 60. I wasn’t able to put mine on the top with my 40 series, not enough room.

There's a couple ways I could modify this caliper, but might be I need a different one if I want it to not be off the back.
The little go kart spot calipers are kinda s***ty so I'd hoped to avoid them if possible but it would be a lot easier to fit.
Very few 100% mechanical caliper options out there.
A rotor that was an inch or two larger would make life easier, but then I could cut teeth in it and use it as a stump grinder

Anyways. I'm cruisered out for this week. Made a good dent in the list at least.

 

[bcsteel]

I have that seal somewhere. If you need dimensions or whatever