CV Axle Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Dec 20, 2011
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Recently I bought some low mileage front CV axles for a tundra swap, but in shipping they were damaged. Has anyone rebuilt their front CVs before? I see the Toyota boot kit, but I’m unsure if it includes the parts I need.

I’ve attached some pictures to show the part that was bent. The CV boots look fine, it’s the metal dust cover on the end of the CV that was actually damaged. I’m concerned if I get the boot kits that cover won’t be included. Does anyone know if that’s a part I would swap from my original CVs?

The seller is willing to work with me on a partial or full refund, depending on if I want to rebuild these or not.

Ive got struts, UCAs, LCAs, and tie rods already, so only the parts collecting is almost complete.

Thanks for the help
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The flimsy metal parts are dust rings, I replaced mine before putting the Tundra CVs on as well. You can take a screw driver and hammer and tap them towards the end and they'll pop off so you can see what you're working with. If that's all it is you're golden, I do recall them being more $$ than they should be (maybe $50 for all 4) but not the end of the world.

In the 1st picture though, where I circled, is the thick lipped black ring part bent? That wouldn't be something you could easily fix and wouldn't be good.

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Found the part numbers:
Snap rings: 43425-0C010
Dust Cover: 41336-0C010
Dust Seal: 90304-A0002

Link to diagram and parts: FRONT DRIVE SHAFT
 
Found the part numbers:
Snap rings: 43425-0C010
Dust Cover: 41336-0C010
Dust Seal: 90304-A0002

Link to diagram and parts: FRONT DRIVE SHAFT

Thanks for the help! That diagram was much more detail than the one I was using earlier. I'll go ahead and keep these then.

It might just have been an awkward camera angle, but I double checked that spot on the CV. It's not bent, but it's marred from were a screwdriver was probably used to pry it out of the housing.

Any lessons learned from when you did your swap, or additional parts to replace while I'm in there?
 
If you have high miles you could consider new hubs/bearings. It is technically possible to replace the bearings alone, but not much more to buy the whole bearing/hub assembly and the time saved will easily pay the difference. You will likely have the hub off to do the cvs.
And if you pull the front diff it’s a good time for locker and gears :)
 
Thanks for the help! That diagram was much more detail than the one I was using earlier. I'll go ahead and keep these then.

It might just have been an awkward camera angle, but I double checked that spot on the CV. It's not bent, but it's marred from were a screwdriver was probably used to pry it out of the housing.

Any lessons learned from when you did your swap, or additional parts to replace while I'm in there?
It was straight forward. Use an impact wrench to loosen the axle nut. You need an uncommon socket for that nut too. Lots of info on KDSS just be prepared there, make sure your valves open before you start tearing in. Get the SPC cam bolt kits, you'll need two. To get the CVs out spin them slowly and use back and forth motion on the CV axle like a slide hammer and they'll pop out pretty easily, no need to pry. The reason to spin is evidently if the notch on the snap ring is in a certain position (up?) it releases easier. If you don't want to damage the LCA ball joint boot you'll need some kind of puller. If they are in good shape someone on this board will take them off your hands, I tore mine with a pickle fork. The only other thing I can think of is that some people have issues with the LCA cam bolt sleeve rusting to the LCA. If that's the case you have to cut the bolts out which I hear is a PIA - hence replacing with the SPCs mentioned above, they come with a plastic sleeve instead of the factory aluminum. It's been a couple years since I did this, but there are plenty of others on here maybe they have something to add. What kind of UCAs are you using?
 
I've got a set of stock 2018 Tundra UCAs that I'll be using. They'll be paired with a set of matching 2018 Tundra front coilovers. I may run the 10mm LC strut spacer , but since I'm not really after much lift at this point I don't expect Caster to be much of an issue.

I'll add the wheel hubs and SPC cam bolt kits to the list. As well as extended front brake lines.

The LCAs that I have need a minor repair from where the previous owner tried to open up the bucket for shock body. They plasma'd out the top of the arm to allow for a larger shock to lean back further. In doing so, they also blew through the wall of one arm in a small section, I'm assuming that's why they let the pair go for $100 with LBJs.

I wonder if @bjowett has the cad files/is able to produce the spacer he mentioned a couple years ago:

Yes, fabricating a Tundra axle to fit would be nice, but the bracketry involved would be expensive. Additionally, the LC axle housing has a much stronger center area. Here is a rear wheel bearing (left) and prototype spacer. The spacer bolts between the end of the axle housing and the backing plate/bearing/caliper/brake assembly.
View attachment 1305497
 
not sure if you've seen this thread.
lots of helpful info.

not sure about the lower ball joint boot mentioned earlier. there are two bolts at the bottom of the knuckle. remove them and don't mess with the lower ball joint.

to remove the tie rod ends, get a tie rod end separator from harbor freight (or any reputable vendor)

its honestly a pretty straight forward swap. the only issues you may run into are if the LCA bolts are stuck in the bushings and getting the sway bar links lined up. use a socket and long extension to steer the bolts in to the hole while slowly turning. avoid cross threading the bolts.
 

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