Custom gauges/display for Fj62 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 3, 2020
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3
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148
Location
Orange, California
Hi guys and gals,

Just wanted to share something I've been working on in my spare time.

Not sure how noticeable at first glance, but there are three small Oled displays under the RPM gauge.

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It looks like this when they're on. ( bench test )

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You could display any data on these displays as long as you can put a sensor on what you want to display.
The list is almost endless.
I'm going to display EGT, transmission oil temp, inter cooler temp, outside temp, etc....

Just wanted to see what you guys think?
 
I recall this assembly was badly scratched-up when I replaced my instrument bezel. I didn't realize it was the engine warning light. I replaced the bulb, but later remember running low on oil. OK, I"m an idiot, but that light was supposed to work and it never did. I'd say that any change you make is an improvement to this part of the instrument cluster, but I'm not sure I feel like taking it apart once again.

That said, if you've never cleaned the glass on your gauges it would be worth the effort. They come out like new again and if you have a good excuse, like replacing an idiot light that doesn't work with a unit with real sensors, it will be a huge improvement to your vehicle. See pics below for gauges and the (still) scratched-up idiot light assembly:

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Yeah very cool.. I'd love to add data/gauges to my 60 without having to upset the stock look
Just looked at my 60s gauge cluster, and there is a spot that would work.
It‘s the insert piece under the RPM gauge.

You could pop that piece out and fit a similar display assembly to it‘s place. The only difference would be that only two display would fit in there. The two indicators on the OEM piece could be wired into the displays along with any other sensors you would want.
 
@LA Z this is pretty brilliant, great work. I’d be interested if you do a run for 60s but I have a few questions.

1. The housing uses factory screw locations?

2. What gauge inputs does the PC board take? Are there a certain type of connectors or do you have to solder to the board?

3. Can you have more inputs than screen real estate and toggle between the different data?

4. Is there a way to turn the display on and off?
 
@LA Z this is pretty brilliant, great work. I’d be interested if you do a run for 60s but I have a few questions.

1. The housing uses factory screw locations?

2. What gauge inputs does the PC board take? Are there a certain type of connectors or do you have to solder to the board?

3. Can you have more inputs than screen real estate and toggle between the different data?

4. Is there a way to turn the display on and off?
1. The one for the 62s uses the factory screws to mount the display.
For the 60s, that piece under the RPM gauge is a snap in.
I haven’t really looked at the 60s gauge cluster to see how to mount the display, but I’m sure it’s possible.

2. The wire between the display and the ”brain” is a cat6 patch cable, the rest of the wires for the sensors are
18-22awg. No soldering needed.

3. Each display can have multiple sensor data displayed on it simultaneously, or just one with larger numbers.
All that will be worked out on the production run. ( if that will happen, it’s up to the number of interest I’ll get )

4. Turning the display on and off should not be any issue.


I hope this answers your questions. If there’s anything else you guys want to know, just let me know.
I would appreciate any and all feedback on this.
 
Since we’re on topic here :

I really like this new concept vision idea above :


I have explored some un-charted territory here recently in my 62 gauges cluster and HVAC panel w/ LED updates and some HJ61 japan spec sema-spec concept visionary free form ideas …



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I spruced up my HVAC panel and switch panel illuminated shades also updating ALL old filiment bulbs to FULL on LED including the A/C blue push button switch itself

The Cement Ghost is now 💯 % LED inside and out ….


Some before and after tech pics ..




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This is what goes into the housing on the gauge cluster.
Three .96“ display and some other parts to make it work.
The cable on the right is that one that runs between the display and the hideaway unit.

The gauge cluster installation is straight forward, just plug and play.
All the sensor wires will go to the hideaway unit, it will be a small around 4”x4”x1“ box.

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Thanks for answering all that. Here’s another question:

What senders does the brain work with? I already have several aftermarket gauges and I’m wondering if those senders will work or if I’d have to buy ones that play nice with the brain. Typically a sender and gauge are calibrated together, so I’m not sure if outside things will work here. I’m particularly interested in knowing if a Bosch O2 sensor will plug into the brain - those are pretty ubiquitous.

Here’s a photo of what I’m working with. Obviously the vacuum gauge is mechanical, but I’d try to find an electronic sender for that. I’d also add a 2nd oil pressure sender if I picked up your kit, which makes for four separate data sources in my case. I like the factory gauges working so all of my senders would be in addition to stock. The gauge on the far right is hard to see - it’s a wideband air:fuel gauge.
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Additionally, here’s the dash slot in question in my 1982 60:
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This looks less wide than what you have. I have a spare gauge cluster I can send you if you get serious about making this a kit. That way you can template and design from it.
 
No need to send me a cluster, I took one of mine out so I can take a better look at it. ( Appreciate your offer )
It looks the same as yours other than the second indicator.


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To answer your question about the sensors, I'm 99.9% sure that your sensor would work with this setup.
Just a bit of time to calibrate them to work correctly. Same goes for the Air/Fuel - O2 sensor.

As for the vacuum/pressure gauge, you can get a MAP sensor from pretty much any modern car and it should work.

All the gauges and sensors are working on the same principle, just needs to be calibrated to work together.
 
What does the calibration process look like?

For example I’m sure the temp sender is resistive in nature - a thermistor. But how do we figure out what resistance correlates to what temperature?

And the other question is actual physical connections, particularly the Bosch 02 unit that has a harness plug. Does the brain use screw down terminals, solder through holes, certain types of plugs?

On the MAP sensor - duh! I spaced that. I feel like I’d have to build an apparatus for that - some kind of box that the MAP sensor mounts in, with a vacuum nipple that can be plumbed to the manifold “gas filter”.

Thanks for bearing with me, and I hope this works out some kinks for you. I’m trying to see how the install would play out.
 
What does the calibration process look like?

For example I’m sure the temp sender is resistive in nature - a thermistor. But how do we figure out what resistance correlates to what temperature?

And the other question is actual physical connections, particularly the Bosch 02 unit that has a harness plug. Does the brain use screw down terminals, solder through holes, certain types of plugs?

On the MAP sensor - duh! I spaced that. I feel like I’d have to build an apparatus for that - some kind of box that the MAP sensor mounts in, with a vacuum nipple that can be plumbed to the manifold “gas filter”.

Thanks for bearing with me, and I hope this works out some kinks for you. I’m trying to see how the install would play out.
Most of the sensors are based on resistance, on some of them you can look up the temperature to resistance graph and go from there. If you can’t, it’s not that hard to figure it out.
Almost all gauges and sensors are just a voltage divider circuit, and pretty simple.

You can find a MAP sensor that has a hose nipple about 1/8” in size and just run a small vacuum line to your intake manifold.

The connections would be screw terminal type for the sensors and power wires on the unit.

Keep the questions coming, I don’t mind answering them.
 

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