Builds Cummins 6bt/nv4500 build (2 Viewers)

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Anymore cooling issues? I'm looking at running E fans like yours as well. I live in a much cooler climate so if they are working for you it's should be no issue for mine.

Do you know the part numbers for your fans?

Also on you clutch master it looks from the pic's that it's not a 80 series master maybe a 60 series do you happen to have the part number for it as well?

Thanks a lot.
 
Anymore cooling issues? I'm looking at running E fans like yours as well. I live in a much cooler climate so if they are working for you it's should be no issue for mine.

Do you know the part numbers for your fans?

Also on you clutch master it looks from the pic's that it's not a 80 series master maybe a 60 series do you happen to have the part number for it as well?

Thanks a lot.
Maradyne M113 (11") & M166 (16") are my fans.
No cooling issues at all. I actually was going to revert back to my 185 temp switch from the 195 for the summer but never got around to it. With work this summer I seemed to get stuck in traffic everyday in 100+ temps and wanted the fans to kick in a bit earlier. With fans running the needle will stay at the 1/2 way mark on the modified stock temp gauge sitting in traffic. On the highway it will go down to 1/4 mark and fans will usually turn off. Running 180 degree thermostat.
 
The truck has changed significantly since then.

Just another reason to go to Moab.
Dumb thing called work keeps getting in the way. It also doesn't help that I live in a place that takes me a solid day to drive anywhere cool. I have one more week of work before the busy season ends and have a few things planned at the moment. I just need final approval from the wife to head out on another solo adventure.
 
I worked on two things when I got home today.
First was removing the Slee upgraded light harness. Since installing it I have been fighting a passenger side low beam cutting out or flat out not working. Read others had this same issue. Testing good so far.
Second was slow starts the last couple days. Batteries tested good along with alternator. Cleaned off my passenger side negative cable which has some slight corrosion. I also tighten down the positive cable on the terminal block that the starter solenoid was connected to. It was slightly loose. Seemed to start like normal after that. It got dark on me before I had a chance to crawl under and make sure the cable going to the starter was secure.
 
Yes. Batteries are not isolated from each other. Started it up a few times while driving up to the store and it's still a bit sluggish. It still fires right up but just a tad slow if I don't give it a bit of fuel. I'll crawl underneath in the AM and check the starter connections.
 
It sounds like a loose connection to me or a lose engine ground. Have you advanced the timing at all on your engine?
 
It sounds like a loose connection to me or a lose engine ground. Have you advanced the timing at all on your engine?
I haven't messed with the timing. It seemed a bit complicated when I read up on it when I did valve springs, and fuel plate. No telling what I could have knocked loose when I pulled the vacuum pump.
 
OK thanks, just trying to sort out the mods I want to do before I get mine in. May just do a 3k gov spring on mine. Still want to do valve springs since I plan to run an exhaust break.
 
More maintenance today. Changed gear oil on transfer case, front and rear diffs. I need to pick up a fuel filter from Cummins this week since it about that time.
Tomorrows agenda is to test the voltage at the starter to see if thats the issue. Hopefully I don't have to replace the starter but at least it seems like it won't be much trouble to pull it.
 
If you can, put an amp clamp to it and see what you're pulling. Maybe that starter is tired and spinning it slow. Cummins can be finicky with that.
 
If you can, put an amp clamp to it and see what you're pulling. Maybe that starter is tired and spinning it slow. Cummins can be finicky with that.
I don't have one of those. My plan was to put my multimeter on it and have someone turn the key. I got sidetracked today at the pick n pull and watching football.
 
Maybe HF has a cheapo I can get.
 
You can see what your voltage is to the starter and the ign side and you can measure voltage drop across the cable and from the case back to neg post with a DMM but you'll need an amp clamp to see how many amps its pulling, which may indicate if that motor is going south.
 
You can see what your voltage is to the starter and the ign side and you can measure voltage drop across the cable and from the case back to neg post with a DMM but you'll need an amp clamp to see how many amps its pulling, which may indicate if that motor is going south.
7 Function Clamp-On Digital Multimeter
Will this cheapo work? I admit I am almost useless when dealing with electrical stuff no matter how many times I "learn" something. It just doesn't retain in my brain.
 
is it possible to calculate amp draw by measuring voltage drop and comparing to wire length and gauge? or is this too short of a wire run to work like that?
 

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