cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation
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Joisus 47 - $17995! For an engine!
Sneaky is that a WWII era Chevy?
oz old mate the V8 conversion will cost very little. Recently my trip to Cairns and back saw me net all the necessaries from a bloke in Mackay, a bloke in Cairns and another in Browns Plains. All in exchange for freight - which I was happy to do for free 'cause they's 40 boys! Kinda fell into place really and I'm looking forward to the conversion itself. Running costs are no bother as it's a sunday driver to the tip and the coffee shop. I had a ZB once with a 302. Now that was thirsty.
Sneaky is that a WWII era Chevy?
oz old mate the V8 conversion will cost very little. Recently my trip to Cairns and back saw me net all the necessaries from a bloke in Mackay, a bloke in Cairns and another in Browns Plains. All in exchange for freight - which I was happy to do for free 'cause they's 40 boys! Kinda fell into place really and I'm looking forward to the conversion itself. Running costs are no bother as it's a sunday driver to the tip and the coffee shop. I had a ZB once with a 302. Now that was thirsty.
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Chevy Blitz?
Yep, he was parked outside Woollies one Saturday morning so I went to talk to him. He'd had it on display at the army barracks.
I think it was running when he got it off a farm, but he wanted a diesel and found that the 2h went in with little to no hassle, and because it was pre compliance plates, well, lets leave that issue alone
.It lives in Toowoomba, but I've seen it terrorising the Ipswich Motorway. Its a bit different now with a trio of big spotlights on the front, old Unimog tyres, and he's converted the rear to single rims. That photo was one from the Commercial car club I found googling.
The owner said he gets old trucks off farms, spends a little time fixing them up and then moves them on, but I can't recall if we got onto Landcruisers or not.
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Sunday just passed, driving the 45 back to the yard where the engine conversion will occur [old mate Deano's house] when the steering gets all loosey goosey at 50mph. I pulls over to find the two clamps on the relay rod are loose! BOTH! Hmmmmm. Anyway, I tighten them up enough to limp her back to Deano's [another 15mi.] and decided to give the whole thing a thorough going through. In the remob of days gone past I never really checked wheel bearings, the steering box or TRE's [through the latter did receive plenty of grease]. This time I'm going as far as I can with the tools I have. Starting this Sunday. Don't really know what I'm doing but that never stopped me last time..
Anything I should have on hand for this? Other than a pre-soak in inox and plenty of grease for, errrr, things that need greasing.
Anything I should have on hand for this? Other than a pre-soak in inox and plenty of grease for, errrr, things that need greasing.
Indestructible 47
SILVER Star
errrr messy, rags, rags and more rags. Make sure that it's Molybdenum Disulphide lithium base grease that you use, especially if you are doing the inside of the hubs. Beer too? enjoy
is good having your front end done. any probs give me a buzz; i do these all the time up till 70 series. the principles dont change.
so while we on chev blitz... got this among my junk.
this the earlier varient; known as the "monkey nose". you may notice from the pics of the more common varient posted above that the windscreen slopes forward; ie the top sticks further forward than the base. this was to stop the enemy seeing your windscreen flashes in the desert. it was a lesson learned from the earlier "monkey nose". mine is even more unusual in that it was 2WD. not so rare in other theatres of the war but rare in aust because they were never sent here. seems the only few that made it to our shores were the result of diverted shipping during the war. so interesting old truck all in all. is really all there apart from bonnet, front springs and one axle. springs will no doubt have been pinched to make a trailer; a search of the district will prob turn them up. went to an abandoned station with a view to pulling the septic tanks out of the ground for my own use but hiab wouldnt budge them so loaded this instead. (and an F1 cab!) no point driving around empty. this (chev 6) was laying on its side with no plugs, carb or dizzy. blew the bores out with air when i got home with a view to fill the bores with diesel before i unloaded it and sealed up this motor. grabbed a crankhandle for a laugh and couldnt believe she turned over!! seems with the narrow roof compared to the wide front guards she was just overcentre enough that water never got in the motor. all sealed up now of course. this one also interesting in that has old metal checkerplate floor of unusual pattern. one other has surfaced but most were wooden floor. Z number is on the doors and other insignia (i take to be an arm holding a battleaxe) is on left front beside the bonnet. i have not studied any of their significance.
so while we on chev blitz... got this among my junk.
this the earlier varient; known as the "monkey nose". you may notice from the pics of the more common varient posted above that the windscreen slopes forward; ie the top sticks further forward than the base. this was to stop the enemy seeing your windscreen flashes in the desert. it was a lesson learned from the earlier "monkey nose". mine is even more unusual in that it was 2WD. not so rare in other theatres of the war but rare in aust because they were never sent here. seems the only few that made it to our shores were the result of diverted shipping during the war. so interesting old truck all in all. is really all there apart from bonnet, front springs and one axle. springs will no doubt have been pinched to make a trailer; a search of the district will prob turn them up. went to an abandoned station with a view to pulling the septic tanks out of the ground for my own use but hiab wouldnt budge them so loaded this instead. (and an F1 cab!) no point driving around empty. this (chev 6) was laying on its side with no plugs, carb or dizzy. blew the bores out with air when i got home with a view to fill the bores with diesel before i unloaded it and sealed up this motor. grabbed a crankhandle for a laugh and couldnt believe she turned over!! seems with the narrow roof compared to the wide front guards she was just overcentre enough that water never got in the motor. all sealed up now of course. this one also interesting in that has old metal checkerplate floor of unusual pattern. one other has surfaced but most were wooden floor. Z number is on the doors and other insignia (i take to be an arm holding a battleaxe) is on left front beside the bonnet. i have not studied any of their significance.
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That's weird that you'd have a rusty old truck lying around west?
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Is that Blitz inline six the grandfather to an F [and could be swapped in]?
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Went down to the truck today and had a sneak around for the reason for my steering looseness. Started by pulling the front right wheel off and before long, to the dulcet tones of 98.9 country radio this happened:
I'd seen this a hundred times on here before - never thought I'd strip down an axle this far! I have many questions..
First of all, this is where it all began. This doesn't look like enough grease?
Could that potential lack of grease have caused the gouging below [also pic 1]? And is this gouging a concern?
I'd seen this a hundred times on here before - never thought I'd strip down an axle this far! I have many questions..
First of all, this is where it all began. This doesn't look like enough grease?
Could that potential lack of grease have caused the gouging below [also pic 1]? And is this gouging a concern?
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This seal is clearly working as it's still segregating the diff oil and axle grease. Replace?
This felt is old, but isn't perished. Replace?
Is this axle supposed to change diameter just past my finger?
This felt is old, but isn't perished. Replace?
Is this axle supposed to change diameter just past my finger?
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Is the discolouration and scoring on this birfield a concern?
Nice, clean race.
Bearings look great. Thinking I'll just thoroughly degrease and repack.
Nice, clean race.
Bearings look great. Thinking I'll just thoroughly degrease and repack.
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Nuts? Cactus.
Shims. Are these installed by a wheel alignment shop as part of a FEWA? If not, how many do you use? I took three off the top and three off the bottom. Is that right?
Shims. Are these installed by a wheel alignment shop as part of a FEWA? If not, how many do you use? I took three off the top and three off the bottom. Is that right?
good work cult.
buy a swivel rebuild kit; $150 or so. has all you need. at a guess terrain tamer SW1 might fit yours; but check. def replace that inner axle seal and the swivel bearings while you in this deep. wheel bearings are prob good for another turn (remember i can get a bit rough). the other bit to check is your spindle bushings. this is the brass bush inside the spindle (ie the piece the wheel bearings run on). this is not included in most kits and is the reason the inner axle seal fails in the first place. if your seal working (dunno i ever seen that before haha) its prob ok. just a test fit of the spindle over your removed axle gives you an idea; your just looking for excessive play. grease quantity seems ok; just jam plenty in there. when reassembling i ignore gasket compounds and simply run grease on all the gaskets. the shims are all about bearing preload on the swivel bearings. they will all be different thicknesses. best bet is to replace them exactly as they came out. basically with the swivel block assembled you just need some resistance on the bearings. dont want to be able to flop loose from side to side(as you steer) or too tight. removing a shim tightens the bearing load. bit hard to explain but really the same diff as tightening a wheel bearing really only its side to side movement instead of round and round. as i said shims as they came out works in most cases. give me a buzz if you want.
hard to say about that wear from your pic. could very well be old damage that looks fresh? as for the discoloured birfields? anyone want to chime in on this? this thing supposed to even have birfields or ball and claw? i read a little about grinding out early housings to accept later axles but not something ive ever done. your era a little out of my experience cult. i tend to jump from the mid 60s to the early 80s with my fleet.
buy a swivel rebuild kit; $150 or so. has all you need. at a guess terrain tamer SW1 might fit yours; but check. def replace that inner axle seal and the swivel bearings while you in this deep. wheel bearings are prob good for another turn (remember i can get a bit rough). the other bit to check is your spindle bushings. this is the brass bush inside the spindle (ie the piece the wheel bearings run on). this is not included in most kits and is the reason the inner axle seal fails in the first place. if your seal working (dunno i ever seen that before haha) its prob ok. just a test fit of the spindle over your removed axle gives you an idea; your just looking for excessive play. grease quantity seems ok; just jam plenty in there. when reassembling i ignore gasket compounds and simply run grease on all the gaskets. the shims are all about bearing preload on the swivel bearings. they will all be different thicknesses. best bet is to replace them exactly as they came out. basically with the swivel block assembled you just need some resistance on the bearings. dont want to be able to flop loose from side to side(as you steer) or too tight. removing a shim tightens the bearing load. bit hard to explain but really the same diff as tightening a wheel bearing really only its side to side movement instead of round and round. as i said shims as they came out works in most cases. give me a buzz if you want.
hard to say about that wear from your pic. could very well be old damage that looks fresh? as for the discoloured birfields? anyone want to chime in on this? this thing supposed to even have birfields or ball and claw? i read a little about grinding out early housings to accept later axles but not something ive ever done. your era a little out of my experience cult. i tend to jump from the mid 60s to the early 80s with my fleet.
I would have thought that it if the grinding was done by an angle grinder then the score marks would have had an arc to them. Looking at the score marks they seem linear, either with the wheels straight or at full lock, and the straight ahead scoring looks to be a similar radius to the birfield.
But it looks like old damage, if the bearings seem ok and you didn't find too much swarf in the grease, you could be ok, but like West Aussie said put a kit through it and check the spindle bushes.
So, hubs all apart, good opportunity for disc upgrade.
But it looks like old damage, if the bearings seem ok and you didn't find too much swarf in the grease, you could be ok, but like West Aussie said put a kit through it and check the spindle bushes.
So, hubs all apart, good opportunity for disc upgrade.
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Haha sneaky I knew you'd say that lol. It would be the ideal time, but who the hell runs disc brakes with a V8?? You're crazy man..
Thanks lads. I did a Mud search and came across several birfs and balls that were wayyyyy more damaged than mine, and in every instance the advice was to 'just run it'. So I will. Checked with TT website and their kit suits. According to them 03/69 - 09/1975 is the same kit: SH1. I sent hem an email nonetheless. I saw a vid about this bloke setting wheel bearing pre-load with a set of kitchen hook scales. In fact his whole show was pretty impressive:
What do you do if you forgot to note which way your grunion bearing shims came out..?
Thanks lads. I did a Mud search and came across several birfs and balls that were wayyyyy more damaged than mine, and in every instance the advice was to 'just run it'. So I will. Checked with TT website and their kit suits. According to them 03/69 - 09/1975 is the same kit: SH1. I sent hem an email nonetheless. I saw a vid about this bloke setting wheel bearing pre-load with a set of kitchen hook scales. In fact his whole show was pretty impressive:
What do you do if you forgot to note which way your grunion bearing shims came out..?
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Wait, one last question: what the hell is knuckle centring? I'm now reading about SST's, scribes and other jargony type things but old mate in the video above just whacked it all back together??
yea SH1 thats the one i meant. do not be alarmed if the swivel bearings appear different at first glance; ie bearing taper and number or rollers etc. it is the overall dimensions that matter. i ran this kit thru my 61 and had this imaginary dilemma for a while.
another good trick is to find a couple longer old metric bolts of the correct thread and cut the heads off them to screw in where spindle meets the block. these act as a guide while you reassemble everyhing and are a great help. screw them out once the other 6 bolts are in.
regards wheel bearing nuts; grind off the damage and do yourself a favour and go buy the right bearing socket. every old one i open looks like that.
or just get on with it old school haha. 75 nut pictured; not sure the size of the earlier ones.. i have deliberately not tightened my 61 wheel bearings yet because i am done with the hammer and chisel method. trip to the city next week.
another good trick is to find a couple longer old metric bolts of the correct thread and cut the heads off them to screw in where spindle meets the block. these act as a guide while you reassemble everyhing and are a great help. screw them out once the other 6 bolts are in.
regards wheel bearing nuts; grind off the damage and do yourself a favour and go buy the right bearing socket. every old one i open looks like that.
or just get on with it old school haha. 75 nut pictured; not sure the size of the earlier ones.. i have deliberately not tightened my 61 wheel bearings yet because i am done with the hammer and chisel method. trip to the city next week.
Cult me mate what the manual is describing is how the centre the outer spindle with the axle housing while setting correct swivel bearing preload.
In other words it is possible to have correct swivel preload with a out of line spindle which put uneven pressure on inner axle seal leading to oil leaks.
So if you have mixed up your shims you should centre the spindle first (the scribe method) then set the swivel shims for preload
In other words it is possible to have correct swivel preload with a out of line spindle which put uneven pressure on inner axle seal leading to oil leaks.
So if you have mixed up your shims you should centre the spindle first (the scribe method) then set the swivel shims for preload
