cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation (1 Viewer)

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Thanks lads. Got a quote from Slack Creek BnC to do the job. Hung up and began oiling the trans cover bolts in preparation for removal :D

Then got to building this for the 74. I figure it'll help it sell. Haven't welded since 2001 so I'm impressed!

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oz old mate thanks for holding onto it until this F fired up with good pressure. I think I'll just run this one for the minute. Seems to be doing okay. I reckon you could pull a good $500 for that if you shoot a quick vid on your phone of it running with a glass of water on the rocker cover :D
 
I think it would look better with a stubby on the rocker. :beer:
I wont flick it until you do a comp test then add some oil to see where the old girls at.
 
Haha yep, go the stubby. Just make sure it's a XXXX ;)

Pulled the seats, tank and trans tunnel in preparation for the box coming off. Inox'd everything in sight. Ran out. Bought shares in Inox and Inox'd some more. Love that stuff. Scraped a lot of sh!te off the floor of the truck and vacuumed it up. It's pretty clean. I think the yellow tinge is some old school anti-rust material. Thanks PO! Sprayed some Inox into a few seams here and there to help dispel any further tin worm.

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Gonna shoot down the road tomorrow and grab my trolley jack. Thank the good lord it's an under car job - tomorrow is supposed to be blazing sunshine again.
 
Righto lads. Got a few hours today. Pulled the shafts, setup the trolley jack a few times but eventually this happened [guess why the usual sepia-toned pic is now an ugly 'normal' one ruined by flash?]:

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This is the same thing but such a cool angle! The mighty J31, ribbed steel roof and home-brew tray headboard!

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Does this PP look okay? I've shown a few different lighting scenarios and angles to get a good read on it.

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I think this bad boy looks pretty good. Anyone disagree?

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I did notice the small scuff marks here. But I think that's due to incorrect clutch plate orientation and is inconsequential.

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Probs gonna adjust these three bad boys so they're all the same height.

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I had a quick look at the two PP's and noticed one sits higher than the other. Scuff marks is the one I pulled out today. Non scuffs is the other one [not sure which was stock to the donor or not]. What gives?

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Left = scuff marks.

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These three contacts [?] are higher on this PP than the one in the background.

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And lastly, this front diff nut moves a few mm. Is that bad? It's bad isn't it.


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Just don't lock the hubs in in 4wd and front diff will be alright
 
cult its bloody hard to comment on this pp stuff without seeing it. the height difference in 3rd from top pic in post 529 is striking though. you cant remember what pp is which from your engine swap? i dont know if they change year to year. swap plates??

dont let that diff stress you at all. new collapsible nut would be nice while shafts out but yea... whatever. serious up down movement on the diff pinion is to look out for. these old diffs are pretty strong and pretty free.
 
Thanks boys. I'm gonna re-install the thicker PP as I'm trying to gain girth. Just need to clean up the face a bit. Gonna drench the whole show in brake cleaner to remove all the grease that some idiot covered everything in to try get the box on last time. Don't know who that would be.. ;)
 
Well gents, guess what? Yep. It drives. The rad just started leaking but it mthrfkn drives!!

Turns out it wasn't a backwards clutch plate. It's made in such a way that it only goes in one way. All dat junk hits the flywheel bolts.

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So I decided to install the thinner PP. It was more 'f**k it' than logic. Do you know that despite all Mr. Toyoda's brilliance the trans can't be slid all the way back without it hitting the floor? Come on Mr. Toyoda, you're better than that! Anyway, cleaned all the grease some idiot put on everything, installed the clutch the same way I did last time, installed the new PP, then the gearbox fell backwards off it's carefully balanced perch atop my trolley jack [nearly ending up on the bitumen, which is sloped by the way] but the aforementioned floor stopped it from going any further. Thank you Mr. Toyoda for your brilliance! I'll never doubt you again old son. I used the now available space to align the clutch [by eye - who the hell uses a clutch alignment tool??] and get my TO bearing correctly installed as well as the fork. Things were looking good. Using the might of the J31 gearstick I levered the box back atop the jack and began inching to forwards. To anyone who's done this they'll know that this can be a complete PITA. Nonetheless we moved onwards and upwards. Literally upwards because of the slope of the street. Using my patented 'crouch, tackle and shove' method I actually got the box about 3" from home on the first go. I redirected my jack which had begun driving itself towards the gutter [thanks to the camber of the road] and the next shove got it close enough to get two bolts started. Got em threaded, adjusted the jack and got the last two bolts in before beginning to crank them all home. Got within an inch-and-a-half when I decided to pull the PP bolts to allow the clutch to align another whisker. Re-torqued them and then spent the next ten minutes using bolt power to bring the trans back where it should be. Got it flush, undid the PP bolts to reseat the clutch again, balanced myself behind the steering wheel and hit the key. It was a nice feeling to be looking down at that spinning handbrake drum through the hole in the floor as I sat on the bare floor like a six year old not going anywhere.

Needless to say I was quite chuffed at this stage, so I cleaned up all the drive shaft bolts and reinstalled the rear shaft. Left the front out to address that nut at a later date. Decluttered the front guards [tool benches :D] and went for a 20 yard drive. There was a little clutch shudder so I rolled backwards down to my 'car park' and reseated [re-centred?] the clutch plate. Reinstalled a few more things: tank, driver's seat, my aftermarket oil pressure gauge, cleaned up all the tools from under the truck and drove it up to the end of the street. 50m this time. Turned around and then back down the street, past my house and around the corner before coming back again. A total of 150m! This may sound trite but I'm not well placed to be getting tow trucks every time something pops on this thing and it's fought me every step of the way. So 150m is pretty good I reckon. It's funny, it's like this 45 didn't want to be saved. I guess even old Landcruisers can be self destructive if they think they're too far gone.

So now it sits in the front yard under a tree until I can get a new rad in it and take it for a bit of a test drive. For the coming weeks it'll be in the back blocks only. I keep forgetting this thing sat for twelve years without turning a split rim in anger. Like anything that's been neglected that long the process of revival is going to be a gentle and lengthy one. Something I wish I knew last year. But by Jesus it's back.
 
Hey mate, for future reference, pushing the clutch pedal in centers the clutch disk, no need to undo the pp bolts. Also presure plate bolts should always be tightened in a crisscross pattern and evenly, you can warp the pp and clutch chatter will be likely! Cheers on the hard fought battle!
 
very good! dont scrap your old radiator if you get another one.

and your tojo is a long way short of 'too far gone'. ive seen worse ;-)
 
Hey mate, pushing the clutch pedal in centers the clutch disk, no need to undo the pp bolts.

whitey lands again! Thanks dude! Any thoughts on the chatter old son?
 
Every surface should be clean and free of grease or dirt. Warped pp, warped flywheel, mismatching used parts? An old trick is to burn the clutch on purpose to(machine the surfaces), an old outback trick!!! Hate to say it but a freshly machined flywheel with new clutch kit is the only way to avoid chatter. Also input shaft and pilot bearings need to be tight as well.
 
All of the above lol except all parts were clean. It'll be right to drive though? Only happens a little when pulling away in 1st.
 

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