cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation (1 Viewer)

[cult45]

Quick question: The air cleaner assy. uses two head bolts to hold it in. The donor engine was running a Holley, so the air cleaner was atop the carb. What are the consequences of pulling these two head bolts to get the air cleaner back in the stock location?

 

[west aussie]

not perfect in a perfect world but i would do it myself; but then i can get a little rough at times. im presuming they are both outer front left? put a little engine oil on the threads and also the mating surface where bolt meets the head before you torque them down to spec.

its worth it to get rid of that holley. and perchance it just happens to fail youve got a spare head gasket gathering dust right?

 

[cult45]

Thanks west. Yeah the Holley is banished and the stock Aisin is back. I do have a spare head gasket but that is not something I want to even entertain. Think I'll just rest it/bolt/it on the inner guard for now with a piece of rubber under it. Thanks old mate!

 

[west aussie]

what do others think about this? i will ask a couple my mechanic mates when i next in town.

 

[catskinner]

Cult me cobber, i wouldnt be resting/bolting your standard air filter assembly to the inner guard unless you want a cracked/broken carby, as smooth running as the f motor is there are vibrations, movement of the engine through torque, and chassis flex between the engine and inner gaurd. The guard mounted air filters like the diesels have the flexible rubber section to account for this movement.

Looks like your poking along nicly and learning a trick or two, what its all about being a enthusiast

 

[west aussie]

crack a couple head bolts and go for it cult. head gasket is really a worst case scenario.

 

[catskinner]

Forgot to add i would assume that lingering around in the back of some old timers mind is the memory of undoing those head bolts to pull the standard carby and filter assembly off, possibly tossing it as far he could across the back 40 in disgust, then doing a couple hunderd more miles on that motor with out ill fortune
Point is that unless the holly was fitted during a rebuild or vavle job, the head bolts have already been undone and retorqued (maybe just she'll berite) once before.
Me i would do it, next joe blow maybe not

 

[cult45]

My first thought about undoing head bolts was 'FFS - will this ever end???' If I do this and it doesn't run I'll lose my s***. Think I'll try rig something else up.

Spent about an hour yesterday, got a few things buttoned up:

Got battery tray in.
Handbrake cable reconnected.
Starter in.
Coil cleaned up and bolted on.
Wiring joiners cleaned up, kinda fixed and bolted in.
Rubber sheet cut and drilled in expectation for rad cradle to go back in.
Heater hard line deleted.

Heading back out to it now.

 

[west aussie]

good work!

i rate head gasket failure a 10% chance at worst. and at the end of the day its not a big deal. great DIY stuff; give the valves a quick lap and learn your way around the valvetrain. most boring bit is buying the headgasket!

but im hearing you. rig something, drive a bit and see how this motor sounds; let the tools cool down a bit is a sensible plan too.

 

[cult45]

Yeah I'm gonna rig something for now.

Quick Q: I want to install an oil pressure gauge in PSI. The oil pressure sender on the block has been tee-d off, resulting in two points to attach wires. I'm assuming the PO of this engine had the same idea as I have. Am I shopping for an electrical oil pressure gauge or a mechanical one?

The second one for $35 looks pretty good.

http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/smiths-gauges

 

[whitey45]

Hey m8, if your worried about the head bolts, grab a couple bolts, turn em upside down and weld them to top of the two head bolts. Now you have 2 studs, couple lock washers and nuts and your good to go!

 

[cult45]

Joisus, you're a ******* genius whitey! Done!

 

[cult45]

Any input on whether I need an electrical oil pressure gauge or a mech one? The sender is the stock F one.

 

[whitey45]

I have always ran mechanical gauges

 

[chappohj47]

Hey cult a couple of post back remember that 45 with the 350 you posted its back for sale again now with 6.5 chev diesel in it $120000
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/151600389501

 

[cult45]

A few hours today.

Used the battery negative terminal/earth from the donor F as it has another earth cable. Installed second earth on the DS apron.

Couldn't find where the brake hard line holder bolted to, so I drilled a hole on the inner guard next to the ID tag and installed.

Got the rad in. Forgot the shroud. Got the overflow bottle in.

Thought about the air-cleaner mount and decided I might utilise this here threaded hole forward of the exhaust manifold.

Got the clutch slave installed.

Also got the transfer shift lever re-installed. How the hell you chuck a split pin in that sucker and make it pretty is beyond me.
Drilled the broken t-stat housing bolt.
Decided to mount the coil on the firewall using two bolts instead of on the block with one. Don't have the stock holder.
Found a nut for a missing bezel captive nut on the bib and installed.

 

[cult45]

Now that the bib is back in place it reminded me that this here truck needs braces. PS has a 1/2 inch overbite. Not sure how to correct this as the hood-to-cowl gap is even.

 

[west aussie]

going good cult; you must be close to firing this up. i prefer mechanical guages; prob worth spending couple $$ on a quality one though.

really like the aircleaner mount suggestion from whitey45.

do you have a pic of the coil mount you need? i prob got something in my junk.

 

[cult45]

Thanks west. Yeah probably pretty close I'd say. Do I need thread tape on the sender? Thanks for the coil holder but I dig the firewall mount. Did my package arrive old son?

 

[sneaky]

[QUOTE=" Not sure how to correct this as the hood-to-cowl gap is even[/QUOTE]

Have you checked the gap on the fenders and side aprons and the gap on the bib? We had the fenders loaded up with tools and beer and that may have moved the top of them out, or the front to tilt down.

Also, how much play is there in the bolt holes of the bib, the passenger corner may have twisted forward. It could also be as simple as having a washer between the bib and side aprons in the wrong place causing one side to be forward or aft.