CT 26 water cooling flow

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Zekester

Zekester

Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Threads
226
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I have a CT 26 with an in/out fitting on one side of the water jacket, and a block off plate on the other....what do i hook up the inlet and outlet to? The hose and pipe assembly that runs along the head supplies my heater core but only has flow when the heat valve is open...do I put a "tee", in the inlet and outlet of the heater line? basically running the turbo in parallel with the heater core? won't the coolant flow be affected by whether or not the heater valve is open? or is it an issue?
 
anyone? this is an easy one for anyone running a water cooled CT26....
 
I figured it was at least a heat sink....
 
when i asked the guys at Alamo (building and rebuilding turbos for decades) about the water jackets on the Garret turbos they told me for our applications the water jackets stay unused...
 
crushers said:
when i asked the guys at Alamo (building and rebuilding turbos for decades) about the water jackets on the Garret turbos they told me for our applications the water jackets stay unused...
Click to expand...

The water jackets are a legacy of the same turbo core being used on petrol engines.
With a sane shutdown ethic you don't need them. If you don't have a sane shutdown ethic then it's not just your turbo which will suffer.
 
which leads us to.....what is a sane shutdown ethic...

I do need to get it running first, but once i do, I would love an idea of how to shut it down...
 
Zekester said:
which leads us to.....what is a sane shutdown ethic...

I do need to get it running first, but once i do, I would love an idea of how to shut it down...
Click to expand...

Just don't shut it down when it's red hot. Fit an EGT probe in the exhaust manifold and don't shut it down until it's down to 200C or thereabouts.
You'll find that idling it down is only necessary when you've just driven quickly to the top of a hill.
 
agreed, your pyro will tell you when it is safe for shut down. i am not as sane as Dougal, anything under 600F and all is golden.
 
Here is a good link concerning turbo/water jacket/coking.
Coking, turbo bearing lubrication and engine oil viscosity
The water jacket on a turbo is there to help with oil coking, it does not matter if your rig is gas or diesel the turbo is subject to heat coking, it is not just a left over gasser problem. The water jacket was designed by engineers to solve a problem that causes damage to your turbo.
The 13BT engine designed by Toyota has a turbo water jacket, the supply of water is above the thermostat in the outlet housing, both the supply and return are in the same housing the flow of water is based on the location and angle of the ports.
I find it amazing that people believe engineers put useless water jackets on a engine part and tell other people to block or ignore the design. Yes turbo's are made without water jackets and yes they work, yes turbo's are made with water jackets and they work, understanding the reason is the fun part.
Toyota located their water ports so the turbo doesn't over cool the oil in the turbo during start up allowing faster warm up, the water is supplied from above the thermostat, they supply a small amount to keep the oil from coking, this offers a measure of protection, Toyota also offers a turbo timer to help with the same problem for non gasser engines. If you monitor your heat buildup in the turbo and cool it down when needed then the water jacket is just good insurance, if you don't cool it down when needed than the water jacket will protect your turbo from a very real problem. Part of the problem is everyone has an opinion (so do I) but oil coking could care less what I think, different oils coke at different temps so stating a good temp for me (400deg F) pre turbo EGT (this one gets alot of debate) is my opinion 600 deg F or 200 deg C is 3 different opinions. Pick one and you bet your turbo and oil will agree with you if it does :cheers: if it doesn't :bang: the engineers who designed the water jackets tried to help with :bang:.

Just my .02 cents

Jim:cheers:
 
jake2far said:
Here is a good link concerning turbo/water jacket/coking.
Coking, turbo bearing lubrication and engine oil viscosity
The water jacket on a turbo is there to help with oil coking, it does not matter if your rig is gas or diesel the turbo is subject to heat coking, it is not just a left over gasser problem. The water jacket was designed by engineers to solve a problem that causes damage to your turbo.
The 13BT engine designed by Toyota has a turbo water jacket, the supply of water is above the thermostat in the outlet housing, both the supply and return are in the same housing the flow of water is based on the location and angle of the ports.
I find it amazing that people believe engineers put useless water jackets on a engine part and tell other people to block or ignore the design. Yes turbo's are made without water jackets and yes they work, yes turbo's are made with water jackets and they work, understanding the reason is the fun part.
Toyota located their water ports so the turbo doesn't over cool the oil in the turbo during start up allowing faster warm up, the water is supplied from above the thermostat, they supply a small amount to keep the oil from coking, this offers a measure of protection, Toyota also offers a turbo timer to help with the same problem for non gasser engines. If you monitor your heat buildup in the turbo and cool it down when needed then the water jacket is just good insurance, if you don't cool it down when needed than the water jacket will protect your turbo from a very real problem. Part of the problem is everyone has an opinion (so do I) but oil coking could care less what I think, different oils coke at different temps so stating a good temp for me (400deg F) pre turbo EGT (this one gets alot of debate) is my opinion 600 deg F or 200 deg C is 3 different opinions. Pick one and you bet your turbo and oil will agree with you if it does :cheers: if it doesn't :bang: the engineers who designed the water jackets tried to help with :bang:.

Just my .02 cents

Jim:cheers:
Click to expand...

Not applicable to modern oils.
:beer:
J
 
why don't you remove the water jacket line on a 13BT, 2LTE and see how much coolant is actually being circulated.

also interesting, CHANGE YOUR OIL MORE OFTEN is rated above getting a water system.
curious, where did it say gas is the same as diesel?

my, my, a bit of serious attitude is showing. what happened? you get in a debate with a buddy and lost?

in the end, this is your opinion and that is all it is.

when you have a company that designs turbos for big rigs, off road monsters (industrial work trucks not the play toys) circle track, drag, street rods etc etc... they know their s***. i will trust the company that designs turbos for different applications to give me the information i need.
 
Dougal said:
The water jackets are a legacy of the same turbo core being used on petrol engines.
With a sane shutdown ethic you don't need them. If you don't have a sane shutdown ethic then it's not just your turbo which will suffer.
Click to expand...

Guess you didn't read this one.
Didn't get in a debate and lose.
Gave my answer as an opinion.
You can use any and trust any info you want ok by me.
My .02 cents and said so.
I tried to answer a question posed by a fellow Mudder who was asking for help, same questions I had when I started with Diesel's.
No attitude meant and apoligize for offending you.

Jim
 
Took your advice and called Jesse at Alamo turbo. Since I am suspect for my attitude give him a call.
Oh by the way they don't recommend blocking the water passage on the CT26 turbo or for that matter any small turbo, in fact Jesse said it will lead to cracking of the housing around the waste gate. Thank you for the recommendation on Alamo as they were very helpful
Phone number 1-800-838-3064 ask for Jesse he was great to deal with.


Jim:cheers:
 
Zekester said:
I have a CT 26 with an in/out fitting on one side of the water jacket, and a block off plate on the other....what do i hook up the inlet and outlet to? The hose and pipe assembly that runs along the head supplies my heater core but only has flow when the heat valve is open...do I put a "tee", in the inlet and outlet of the heater line? basically running the turbo in parallel with the heater core? won't the coolant flow be affected by whether or not the heater valve is open? or is it an issue?
Click to expand...

I would take crusers advice and contact Alamo turbo, ask them if you need the water lines and how best to hook them up. They are most helpful.
Thanks crushers for the great tip on Alamo.
Phone number 1-800-838-3064.
No point in asking any of us when resources like them are around.
Good luck with your install.

Jim:cheers:
 
jake2far said:
I would take crusers advice and contact Alamo turbo, ask them if you need the water lines and how best to hook them up. They are most helpful.
Thanks crushers for the great tip on Alamo.
Phone number 1-800-838-3064.
No point in asking any of us when resources like them are around.
Good luck with your install.

Jim:cheers:
Click to expand...

One thing we all certainly can agree on-the water cooling can't hurt.
cheers,
jan
 
If the water line is there for the few dollars of parts to hook it up, why not? It certainly won't hurt anything. It's cheap insurance if you can't find the right grade of oil which is a real possibility if you travel outside of Canada/USA. Modern diesel oils are not always available here in Guatemala. I've found a place to get Chevron Delo 400 but not everyone has it nor is everyone willing to pay the $12-14 a gallon for it.
 
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