Cruiser engine stopped abruptly (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 20, 2006
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Location
Mission Viejo, CA, USA
While driving home a few days ago, my Cruiser stalled abruptly. No sputtering, it just stopped running. I coasted to a stop and attempted to re-start the Cruiser. It cranked strongly, but wouldn't start. I opened the hood and didn't see any apparent problems (no loose wires, hoses, etc...). With no other alternatives, I called AAA to have the Cruiser towed to a local mechanic. After waiting about 15 minutes, I tried to start the engine. It ran for a few seconds, but stalled again, and wouldn't re-start. The local mechanic (not a Landcruiser specialist) diagnosed my problem as a failed igniter and ECM. Does that sound correct, given my symptoms? I hate to start throwing $$$ at electric parts, if that's not the problem. How can I verify that both items are bad, not just one or the other? I'd appreciate any help you all can give. Thanks, in advance.
 
Fuel filter finally clogged up tight?
 
My 62 did the same thing. I diagnosed a failed signal generator. Replacing the coil and ignitor didn't help. Neither did a new (known, working) ECU.

As soon as I installed a new dizzy it started running again.

What codes are you getting?
 
DRJ!

Is this the '80 that's quit on you? My guess is you didn't get any codes (?). This is DeJaVu all over again! Before you do anything, you have to check the wiring harness that runs under the vehicle on the passenger side, supposed to be pinned to the frame rail but sometimes falls off when the fastener dies.

Take 5 minutes and crawl under the car by the passenger front door. If you see a wire harness that is or could be rubbing on the front driveline, check VERY CLOSELY to see if the contact from the driveline has gone through the harness protector. It very likely has rubbed through the power wire to the O2 sensor and is blowing the fuse in the fuse holder near the left side battery. I think its the EFI fuse but my memory fails me just now.

A quick wire replacement and solidly re-attaching the wire harness back where it's supposed to be takes care of the problem forever (I hope!).

I was doing backflips chasing down wiring goblins till I found this one. Hope this saves you some time. Merry Christmas?

Regards.
 
My 62 did the same thing. I diagnosed a failed signal generator. Replacing the coil and ignitor didn't help. Neither did a new (known, working) ECU.

As soon as I installed a new dizzy it started running again.

What codes are you getting?


same thing happened with one of my old employees 62 replaced dizzy and ran as strong as a worn out 3fe can
 
DRJ!

Is this the '80 that's quit on you? My guess is you didn't get any codes (?). This is DeJaVu all over again! Before you do anything, you have to check the wiring harness that runs under the vehicle on the passenger side, supposed to be pinned to the frame rail but sometimes falls off when the fastener dies.

Take 5 minutes and crawl under the car by the passenger front door. If you see a wire harness that is or could be rubbing on the front driveline, check VERY CLOSELY to see if the contact from the driveline has gone through the harness protector. It very likely has rubbed through the power wire to the O2 sensor and is blowing the fuse in the fuse holder near the left side battery. I think its the EFI fuse but my memory fails me just now.

A quick wire replacement and solidly re-attaching the wire harness back where it's supposed to be takes care of the problem forever (I hope!).

I was doing backflips chasing down wiring goblins till I found this one. Hope this saves you some time. Merry Christmas?

Regards.

Sorry, I guess I should have been more specific. It was the '62 that stalled. So far the '80 is going strong. Are your suggstions above applicable to the '62, or are they specific to an 80 series.

And thanks, I am having a very merry Christmas. The significance of a broken car pales in comparison to being with family and friends as we celebrate this joyous season. Merry Christmas to you, and yours!
 
My 62 did the same thing. I diagnosed a failed signal generator. Replacing the coil and ignitor didn't help. Neither did a new (known, working) ECU.

As soon as I installed a new dizzy it started running again.

What codes are you getting?

I'm not much of a mechanic, especially where diagnostics are concerned. My skill level is at the "can usually replace broken parts level". Is there a way to diagnose the distributor before I replace the coil, igniter, and ECU? I don't know about the codes, the car is still at the shop.

Thanks!
 

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