Yeah my bad............I should have read the bottom of the page, just quickly scanned it, looks identical to the LC without me reading it all...........................The info I posted is actually for a camry....
Just trying to make sure it's the same as a LC.
Cruiser cranks, won't start!
- Thread starter DMX84
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Everything I've seen suggests it's the same electrically. The ohm reading is the same too.
The only difference is the hoses are in a different place but that's not an issue.
DMX
On my 99LC there the wiring to the fuel pump hangs down in a loop under the drivers side door. I had the same problem as you. It turned out some of the connectors had corroded. We ended up taking the connector out and hard wiring it. We then ran the wiring inside the vehicle. The connection is easy to find.
Scott
Scott
- Thread starter
- #24
On my 99LC there the wiring to the fuel pump hangs down in a loop under the drivers side door. I had the same problem as you. It turned out some of the connectors had corroded. We ended up taking the connector out and hard wiring it. We then ran the wiring inside the vehicle. The connection is easy to find.
Scott
I did find a thread on this (yours?) and that was the first place I looked. Mine looked good but will trace the ground back and see if I have continuity on the ground there.
Thanks for the idea.
Were your pins visually corroded or was it somewhat a hidden issue?
DMX
- Thread starter
- #26
Happy birthday to me.......
My parts arrived at C-dans, so I picked them up and finished the project I had started. I't started right up once I was done.
The only thing that bugs me is once I finished I bench tested my pump to find it worked!
So, my thought on that is having the pump out and it was banged around it freed up something? If this problem happens again I'll suspect something else,
but I still believe it's the pump all along from all the testing I did.
Pins were all clean, had voltage to the pump, no security icon with key in. etc.
I'll say this job was a real easy project and if you should find yourself facing a fuel pump failure don't sweat it.
If you can change your oil, you can do this, the hardest part is doing all the above tests to rule out the pump!
Things needed:
Tools.
Here are a few pictures that show what's done. There's no tech writing really needed so I'll just post the pictures and to close this thread for future reference should someone search because they need to do this job.
(I hate it when you find the exact problem when searching to find they never reviled if it fixed their problem
)
If anyone has questions just ask!
DMX
My parts arrived at C-dans, so I picked them up and finished the project I had started. I't started right up once I was done.
The only thing that bugs me is once I finished I bench tested my pump to find it worked!
So, my thought on that is having the pump out and it was banged around it freed up something? If this problem happens again I'll suspect something else,
but I still believe it's the pump all along from all the testing I did.
Pins were all clean, had voltage to the pump, no security icon with key in. etc.
I'll say this job was a real easy project and if you should find yourself facing a fuel pump failure don't sweat it.
If you can change your oil, you can do this, the hardest part is doing all the above tests to rule out the pump! Things needed:
- new pump
- new gasket
- new screen pickup- optional
Tools.
- Assorted metric wrenches and sockets- basic tools nothing special
- Philips screwdriver with a good #2 tip. I did use a right angle ratcheting screwdriver, but a long screwdriver could do it.
- Apex bit to remove the plastic around the seat anchors.
- I used a torque wrench to get the stated torque on the flange bolts.
But I'll say it's not needed. With a new gasket the bolts completely bottom out the flange to the tank and you'll know it's tight without torquing it. Saying this makes me think reusing the old gasket would only give you problems with leaks, because you wont be able to get it to tighten any tighter like with a normal flange gasket.
Here are a few pictures that show what's done. There's no tech writing really needed so I'll just post the pictures and to close this thread for future reference should someone search because they need to do this job.
(I hate it when you find the exact problem when searching to find they never reviled if it fixed their problem
)If anyone has questions just ask!
DMX
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #27
More photos.....
Here's the rest of the photos.
Here's the rest of the photos.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Nice work. You should count your blessing you have a Toyota, any US SUV and you'd be dropping the whole tank to get to the pump. Toyota makes it really easy with that access port.
- Thread starter
- #29
Yes they do I didn't know until I was ready to check the pump, thinking I was going to have to drop the tank. Luckily I found a thread here than mentioned the access port
DMX
Exactly right. My wife had Dodge Caravan. She just filled up to the max. Few miles later, the pump stopped working. The dealer dropped the whole tank and returned back to my wife with gas few miles worth.
I asked what happened to gas. Dealership says its dirty cannot be used. I called it bull but my wife did not want to argue. Some $50 dollars worth must have been used in one of the mechanic's car.
- Thread starter
- #31
You should have told them put in in writing so you could go after the gas company.
I'm sure it wouldn't say it was bad\dirty fuel in writing, unless it really was.
How did the the intake sock (filter) on the old fuel filter look ?
And props to 100TD for a correct diagnosis on the third post!
And props to 100TD for a correct diagnosis on the third post!
- Thread starter
- #33
How did the the intake sock (filter) on the old fuel filter look ?
And props to 100TD for a correct diagnosis on the third post!
The intake sock looked great, I don't think it's meant to stop everything just the big stuff. The inside of the tank looked good too.
DING-DING-DING - we have a winner!
DMX
- Thread starter
- #34
10 years nearly to the month on this pump and I have to replace it again. Not bad for a cruiser that has 310000 miles!
Great job recalling the thread!
- Thread starter
- #36
Considering using a aftermarket pump like Delphi with lifetime warranty. Anyone used an aftermarket pump with good results?
- Thread starter
- #37
Just an quick update : I found my problem to be the immobilizer and glad I found this before I replaced the fuel pump!
I feel fortunate that cleaning the contact with electrical spray cleaner and new fuse fixed my problem. Hope this helps someone.
Cheers
I feel fortunate that cleaning the contact with electrical spray cleaner and new fuse fixed my problem. Hope this helps someone.
Cheers
Would a failing fuel pump possibly throw a P0171 code? System lean on bank 1? Trying to chase down that issue and planning on swapping fuel filters tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #39
I suppose it could, mine seemed to get “stuck” in a dead spot and would just crank until it would allow the pump to spin again. I don’t recall any drivability issues or codes.
I’m thinking a dirty/failing injector or bad 02 sensor. Try some fuel cleaner that can remove water, as water won’t pass through the injectors very well.
I'm kind of thinking injectors as well, but *supposedly* they were cleaned recently. I'm holding off on most drivetrain parts until I get the MS3 installed, however I've replaced the 02 sensors to no avail. I DO however have a crack in part of the intake/vacuum system (the large rectangular box off of the intake) that I am trying to ignore until I swap out the intake piping. We'll see tomorrow if the fuel filter is the cause. Thanks for the input.
