Cruise Control (1 Viewer)

[Brentbba]

Ok, probably a Dan question again, but here goes. Cruise control wasn't working on scout trip over to Needles for canoe trip this past weekend (all 600 miles). Cruiser flew down I-40 at 75-80 the whole way, and as usual was great for the road trip. Cruise control would have been nice and it's always worked in the past. Light would come on the dash when I turned on and when I went to set a speed the dash light would blink three times and go out. When I tried to turn on again nothing worked and the dash light wouldn'd come on either. I can duplicate this process after I switch the ignition off and then restart the engine. I can only think that something resets when the ignition is turned off and then back on. Coming into work this morning I decided to play with it again and it worked just fine. I HATE intermitent problems like this! Any ideas gang? Is there a cruise control module that may be going bad after 9 years, a loose connector.....? Am I looking at some $$$ to replace/fix? The cruise control is nice for the longer trips I take almost monthly with our scout troop.

One the fun side, the canoe trip was great aside for one dumbass fawker on a PWC that decided to spray and swamp one of our canoes on the Colorado. What an ASS! He didn't even stop to see if our guys were ok. Just shouted 'You're going to get wet' as he sped by. Got some practice T-boning a canoe with my son as a result of this jerk.

 

[Seminole]

I have a similar problem with mine. It is intermittent and a PITA. The main parts to the CC system are $$$ and thus as a rule I start with the the cheapest solution. Most of the time the CC will fail due to the simplest component. Try these:
- check your brake light switch (at the pedal)
- make sure your brake resevoir cap/switch (no light, no problem)
- check the parking brake switch (under the handle) mine got loose enough that road vibration would cancel the CC and flash a MIL code. Tightned and adjusted the handle and no more problem.
- check the CC switch on the column. Sometimes the harness get worn through especially if you use the tilt a lot. Sometimes the switch just gets worn out.
All the procedures are in the FSM and these parts, if bad, are cheap to to replace. The actuator and control module are $$$. The solenoid and cable aren't bad. If you are getting a code (flashing CRUISE light) just pull the code with a paper clip and it should point you in the general direction. If you need any more help, just ask. I'll help, sure that someone else is more knowledgeable.

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

I'll second this approach. The cruiser CC (maybe all are like this) will not turn on if there are other major faults in the (important) system. In my case my CC stopped working as the Airbag light was on. Fixed the airbag problem and the CC started up again with no probs.

Cheers, Hugh

 

[Brentbba]

Nole,

Thx for the suggestions. I'll take a look, especially the connections at the brake pedal. Had a brake controller installed a few months back and they did some connections down there as well as the back brake light. Never mess with the tilt and don't use the hand brake much, but will certainly rule the later out. Don't have a FSM but I can poke about a little. Parking brake will be adjusted as part of the 120K service I'm going to need pretty soon. I kind of figured replacement would run mega$$$. I can use my foot for along time.

What do you mean pull the code with a paper clip? ???

 

[Beowulf]

Brent,
Twice now, I've experienced the same CC failure that you described. It simply blinks a couple of times and will not engage. If you stop, turn off the engine, and restart, the CC works perfectly. I chalk it up to gremlins for now.

These things add personality to the truck.

-B-

 

[Brentbba]

B,

And I suppose patience is a virtue....Patience my arse, I'm going to kill something! Can't say somebody anymore - not PC.

Man, the weekend I really need it and it takes it's own vacation. Interesting that I'm not alone in this. Guess I've got about 4,000 miles to see if it continues and then, gulp, see what it may run to repair.

Dan must be on vacation. :'(

 

[Seminole]

Brentbba: The p-brake it self is not the problem, there is a switch that activates the brake light (on the dash). If the handle jiggles(technical term) enough to activate that switch then it will cancel the CC. The brake light may not even come on. This was one of the problems I had. Just tighten the handle enough to to secure it. HTH

 

[Brentbba]

Nole,

Thx - hand brake is quite tight so I think I can rule that one out. I'm laying money on the brake controller connections fawking something up.

 

[cruiserdan]

Nope..........................no vacation here.

Short Tc and E at the data link connector on the firewall. Read the trouble codes using the cruise main lamp. My bet is you have a code 12 which is "overcurrent(short) in magnet clutch circuit. Open in magnet clutch circuit for .8 sec."

Get the code(s) and we will go from there.

Dan.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Brent,

Mine has done this over the years a few times as well. Perhaps twice a year on average and we take a LOT of cruise control trips. Same symptoms. About 75% of the time, at the next gas stop it would begin working again for the duration of the trip, or I'd do a rolling engine stop-restart (Don't try this w/o clear road and knowledge of dangers involved) that would get it working. I don't think you need CC components replaced ($$) as it works fine until whatever fault outside the CC system shuts it down, so don't go writing any checks. I long ago chalked it up to a too-sensitive CC system constantly searching for any excuse to shut off for the attorneys. Ending up in litigation-happy US courts is a nightmare for Japanese companies, so they often err on the conservative side and I think that's what we have here. Mine has not acted up since I performed some services a couple years ago involving a parking brake adjustment, a brake system bleed and lubed the throttle and kickdown cables and linkages. Your guess is as good as mine which one did it.

IdahoDoug

 

[Beowulf]

Brent & Doug,
I've noticed that my foot brake has a hair trigger. I know it needs an adjustment to make it a little less sensitive. I have guessed that the two CC failures are somehow related to the brake pedal adjustment. I'll fix it some day.
-B-

 

[PHAEDRUS]

Brent,
post back on the codes c dan mentioned as I have a similar problem with my 92( 3fe kicks A$$ ) except that at times mine will come on to green and will not engage. I figured it was the controller on the steering column and chalked it up to not worth chasing at this time but If you got the time to chase I will take part in the spoils.
Dave

 

[Brentbba]

Ok Dan,

It's a code 12, one blink, pause, two blinks, long pause and repeats. Cure?

 

[cruiserdan]

[quote author=Brentbba link=board=2;threadid=5777;start=msg46196#msg46196 date=1064937838]
Ok Dan,

It's a code 12, one blink, pause, two blinks, long pause and repeats. Cure?
[/quote]

Hehehehe, Am I bad, or what?

Something is wrong with the actuator. Let's try to save you $1,527.38.

I think that there is some debris stuck in the contacts. Pop the plastic cover off of the top of the actuator and manually move the arm that attaches to the cable. Move it through the full sweep about 8 or 10 times and that should clean off the contacts. Pull the "Dome" fuse from the block behind the battery for about 30 seconds to clear the code and go for a test drive.

Give it a Whirl................ D-

 

[Brentbba]

Damn you are good!

By the actuator, are you referring to the stalk on the steering column? I told you I was a neophyte when it comes to auto mechanics. Never did get that damn engine running in junior high shop class. Guess that's why I sit behind a desk for a living.

I'm wondering if all the playing I've done at the stalk has 'cleaned' up the contacts because it's worked two straight days coming to and going from the office.

 

[cruiserdan]

Nope, under the hood. It is on the RH fender apron under a black plastic cover, just outside and to the rear of the air cleaner housing. There is a cable leading from it to the throttle body. You need to move the arm at the actuator end.


D-

 

[Brentbba]

Gotcha Dan - nothing like long distance auto mechanics 101.

Hope this helps the rest of you with similar issues. We can, as usual, all thank Dan for sharing his experience and knowledge. Ok, enough sucking up for one thread.

 

[Eduardo96FZJ80]

Hummm,
I think I will go stroke my actuator arm 8-10 times !!!

 

[Brentbba]

You do that Eduardo. Let us all know how everything cums out.

 

[Brentbba]

Well Dan, 1/2 job, even for a neophyte. Worked fine this morning, on, off, on.... no problems. We'll see going forward. Looks like you've saved me some mucho $$$. Glad you work on kudos and not a percentage of savings!