crossover steering

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Joined
Jul 9, 2007
Threads
6
Messages
31
Location
Bethel, OHIO
does anybody still make an arm for the passenger side? i know allpro did i have seen pics of it, but it is not on their site. when i do my sas i want to move my front axle forward around 3"s or so. with hysteer i would have to move my steering box forward as well so i wouldn't hit the tierod with the draglink. my thinking is that with just crossover steering i wouldn't have to move my box. am i wrong in thinking this?

thanks, josh
 
does anybody still make an arm for the passenger side? i know allpro did i have seen pics of it, but it is not on their site. when i do my sas i want to move my front axle forward around 3"s or so. with hysteer i would have to move my steering box forward as well so i wouldn't hit the tierod with the draglink. my thinking is that with just crossover steering i wouldn't have to move my box. am i wrong in thinking this?

thanks, josh

Yeah, you're thinking wrong.
With the axle 3" forward you'll have to move your IFS box way forward. You'll have to cut into the core support. No big deal with a sawz-all.


see pics
IFS_box_dcp_1872_front_cutout.webp
IFS_box_dcp_1871.webp
 
Yeah, you're thinking wrong.
With the axle 3" forward you'll have to move your IFS box way forward. You'll have to cut into the core support. No big deal with a sawz-all.


see pics


Correct or you can use a forward swinging pitman arm box like a FJ60/80 and Scout 2. This will allow for the axle to moved forward without having to cut the core support.
 
i still don't quite grasp why i would need to move it. what other reason besides the draglink hitting the tierod is there that i don't know about?
 
My steering box is in almost the exact location as an IFS truck, and with my axle moved 2" forward of stock, my tie rod and drag link are parallel at full compression.

If your running 48" springs with the hanger 1" forward of stock (this sounds like the conbination your intending to use), you can always re-drill your spring perches to move the axle back so the tie rod and drag link don't hit.
 
... If your running 48" springs with the hanger 1" forward of stock (this sounds like the conbination your intending to use), you can always re-drill your spring perches to move the axle back so the tie rod and drag link don't hit.

It's not a good idea to drill new holes in the springs, it weakens them. They'll break right there.

Hardluck, try it your way, and if it doesn't work you can always change it.
 
I said to re-drill your spring PERCHES, not the springs. You are correct that re-drilling your springs will weaken them and cause them to break.
 
i still don't quite grasp why i would need to move it. what other reason besides the draglink hitting the tierod is there that i don't know about?

You don't need to move your steering box if you, as you have already suggested, use standard cross-over steering. Been there, done that w/ axle 3" forward. Worked great.

You can still get the arms from Aqualu industries. They are uber expensive, though. I have one at home..... somewhere.... buried....
 
I said to re-drill your spring PERCHES, not the springs. You are correct that re-drilling your springs will weaken them and cause them to break.

:doh: You did say perches, my bad.

Yeah, I've seen spring that were broken right where the person drilled them.
 
You don't need to move your steering box if you, as you have already suggested, use standard cross-over steering. Been there, done that w/ axle 3" forward. Worked great.

You can still get the arms from Aqualu industries. They are uber expensive, though. I have one at home..... somewhere.... buried....

WOW:eek:!!!.....$381 for just the arm, i think i will move my steering box. unless you wanna sell yours cheap?
 
Maybe I'm confused. Why are you trying to buy just the passenger side? You can get a set of crossover arms from Trail gear for $129, or the whole set-up with linkage for $299.
 
Maybe I'm confused. Why are you trying to buy just the passenger side? You can get a set of crossover arms from Trail gear for $129, or the whole set-up with linkage for $299.

that is probably the way i will go...

the reason i was wanting to run crossover steering(tie rod under springs, draglink over springs) is because when i do my sas i will be using rear springs in the front which will push my axle forward. with hysteer you have to move the steering box aswell or the draglink will hit the tierod. i was trying to stay away from moving my box if i could.
 
Maybe I'm confused. Why are you trying to buy just the passenger side? You can get a set of crossover arms from Trail gear for $129, or the whole set-up with linkage for $299.

I THINK he was talking about getting an OLD SCHOOL highsteer arm where the tie rod stays below the springs and the draglink is above the springs eliminating only the driver side steering arm.
 
gotcha
 
WOW:eek:!!!.....$381 for just the arm, i think i will move my steering box. unless you wanna sell yours cheap?

I think the original intent was to keep people from hacking up steering arms and welding them together but I'm not sure....and I think anyone that is willing to weld 2 steering arms together (unless very experienced, not a backyard welder) in the first place, will probably be too cheap to buy that arm.
 
yeah ive seen pics of welded arms, there is no way im doing that. ill probably just buy high steer and move the box. i have a while to save for it, i need the truck the way it is now to drive this winter. not that it really snows in cincinnati
 

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