Crankshaft Bolt Removal Tool?

[TOYOTARIG]

Hey everyone,

I am doing the timing belt on my GX470 and need the special tool (SST 09213-70011) for removing the crankshaft bolt. I believe the tool is the same one used for the crankshaft on multiple Toyota engines. (3.0 L6, 3.0 V6, 3.3 V6, 4.0 V8, 4.3 V8, 4.7 V8. Toyota 1996 and later: 3.0 V6, 3.3 V6, 4.0 V6, 4.7 V8. also 4 cyl: 1983-1995 22RE, 1995-2004 2RZ & 1995-2004 3RZ) Does anybody have this tool? I would be willing to rent it, I just prefer not to buy it for $70+ and wait for it to be shipped.

Thanks all,
Ron

 

[alia176]

Hmm, I wonder if you can use the "starter bump" method for loosening this bolt on your V8? What does this tool do exactly? Does it hold the pulley stationery while you loosen the C-shaft bolt?

 

[TOYOTARIG]

Hey Ali, good morning. That method would work from what I read, just seems kinda scary to do. I don't want to mess up the righty tighty, lefty loosey. How would I torque the bolt back on when reassembling? Should I just grow a pair and use the starter?

 

[pappy]

The crank bolt SST for a 22RE is a 19mm socket on a long breaker bar. Nothing more, nothing less. Brace under the passenger frame rail, and bump the starter. Just make sure the socket is really on the nut.

 

[TOYOTARIG]

Okay, will do it tonight guys. Thanks for the confidence Jon.

How should I torque it when installing? Same way, but put breaker on top of the passenger frame rail? Sounds like a good way to break the head off the bolt?

 

[pappy]

You won't torque it on using the starter ... unless you can spin the motor backwards. I just use the breaker bar and pull as hard as I can. In a perfect world you would pull the radiator and impact it on.

 

[TOYOTARIG]

Thanks Jon, yeah I am definitely not doing this in the perfect world. In the perfect world I would probably pay someone to do it, nah way more fun trying it myself!

Different topic; have you got your driveshaft situation squared away?

 

[alia176]

Ron,

The trick that Jon mentioned is very effective but do keep in mind one thing. DON'T let the breaker bar slam into the pass frame rail when you bump it. It'll snap the breaker bar...err, from what I've heard anyway

As far as re-tightening the Cshaft bolt, here's another tip. Some folks use a chain wrench to hold the Cpulley tight with one hand while tightening the Chaft bolt with the other hand. Or, tie the chain wrench to something solid and then use both arms to crank on the torque wrench. The trouble with this method is that the chain wrench is holding the pulley stationery and with a high mileage pulley, the rubber portion of the pulley may separate on you. Makes sense? So, the outer part of the pulley is stationery but the inner rubber part may come apart, rendering the Cpulley useless. This happened to the subaru pulley but never on the Toyota pulley. So, I've switched to the method below.

Another way to prevent the engine from rotating while you crank on the Cshaft bolt is stop the flex plate on the back of the engine from rotating. This may take two people. One person sticks a large flat head screwdriver on the flywheel starter ring to stop the engine from rotating, while you torque down the Cshaft bolt.

A third way of doing the same thing is to put a socket on the torque converter bolt, and a breaker bar. Rotate the engine with the Cshaft until the socket/bar firmly lodges itself against something solid in the bell housing. Or, have a helper hold on to this socket/bar while you torque down the Cshaft bolt. This helper can help stabilize the socket/bar against the bell housing so that the socket sits flat on the torque converter bolt, usually a 14mm socket. He/she will not be able to counter your torque unless the socket/bar is lodged against the bell housing. This is assuming, you have access to the TC bolt heads anyway!

Confused? Good.

 

[pappy]

The trick that Jon mentioned is very effective but do keep in mind one thing. DON'T let the breaker bar slam into the pass frame rail when you bump it. It'll snap the breaker bar...err, from what I've heard anyway

I bungee cord my breaker bar up. I've had the socket come off the nut before, so I make sure the bar is secure. If it doesn't break loose after the first bump I double check the bar and socket to make sure it's still attached before I give her a second bump. I have a manual tranny so making it tight again is easier than an auto. I can press my feet against a tire and really give the nut a good pull.

 

[pappy]

Different topic; have you got your driveshaft situation squared away?

I worked on the transfer case this weekend. My plan was to rebuild the case in the garage and get everything assembled so all I had to do was pull the case out of the truck and do a swap. Case in the garage was a 4.7:1, so I needed to swap out a few gears and stuff.

Well, it appears I'm missing parts to make that happen (mostly a low range gear). So I will need to pull the case out of the truck and take it apart to salvage a few parts. Worst case senario will be to harvest a case from the U-Pull for parts.

 

[lurch]

In a perfect world you would pull the radiator and impact it on.

That's what I do, been driving for 10 years with this method ;0)

 

[TOYOTARIG]

Thanks for the tips and advice everyone. Starter trick worked, you have to be quick to turn the key back to the off position. Can't just bump the starter on a Lexus or newer Toyota, once you turn the key to the start position starter automagically turns until the engine starts. I guess humans fingers have gotten to weak too hold the key in the start position.

Good old YouTube revealed a method for torqueing the bolt by building a tool out of a 2X4, I think I will try that.

Thanks again guys!!!